250 2v in Xy GS, please help!!!!

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Hello,

I'm new to this site, and it looks like a very helpful and interesting site. I thought i should ask for help about what i can do with my 250 2v in my XY GS.

I have only just bought the head, inlet manifold with original 2 barrell stromy and extractors, all in need of reconditioning off Ebay.

When we recondition it, I would like to have as much extra power as possible, while not spending over $400 and without using more fuel as it is my daily driver.

The specs are:
Engine :250ci fully reconditioned, +0.030 , tunnel honed, mild cam, decked, balanced and blueprinted
Exhaust: pacemaker dual extractors, with twin 2" exhaust
Gearbox: 4 spd toploader (standard)
Diff: 8 3/4" LSD (standard GS)


I have a die grinder and flapper wheel and can do some of the work myself. So a Port and polish should be possible.

So what do you guys suggest i do to mod it with a budget of around $400??

Cheers
Tom
 
OK
Clean up your cylinder head, dont port the intake side, just blend the bumps behind the inlet valve throat, the exhaust side is in need of help, Id pull out the thermal tube in the centre exhaust port, make a port divider and weld in, then make a gasket to fit the exhaust flange. Clean up the port , a bigger valve helps but for street use is of limited value.
Your cam is probably (Solid lifters are best) about right, use the stock intake manifold, run a two barrel say 350 holley, Otherwise its just basic clean up and good prep.
BTW has your rear axle got a cover plate or is it removable centre, XY sixes and small V8s only had Borg Warner axles, not 8 or 9 inch , there for 351s only, unless specially ordered.
A7M
 
aussie7mains":2ilfi0k8 said:
BTW has your rear axle got a cover plate or is it removable centre, XY sixes and small V8s only had Borg Warner axles, not 8 or 9 inch , there for 351s only, unless specially ordered.
A7M


Thanks for your quick reply A7M,
not to sure about the diff, all i know for sure is that it is the original GS diff, which is LSD. I think it is a high ratio diff though.

Tom
 
I've got a feeling the $400 budget will be a little shy. In Sydney at least, a basic head service costs around $600 without hardened seats.

You'll probably need to skim across the exhaust ports' face as most seem to have sprung a leak that's been allowed to erode metal.

There will be at least one original 250-2V XY GS at the All Ford Day in Sydney next weekend. It's white with Globes.

Cheers, Adam.
 
addo":t5f0nvbm said:
I've got a feeling the $400 budget will be a little shy. In Sydney at least, a basic head service costs around $600 without hardened seats.

You'll probably need to skim across the exhaust ports' face as most seem to have sprung a leak that's been allowed to erode metal.

There will be at least one original 250-2V XY GS at the All Ford Day in Sydney next weekend. It's white with Globes.

Cheers, Adam.

Hi Adam,

Could you please tell me what a basic head service involves and do you know if the extractors on my 250 now, will fit on the 2v head?

I am getting the head delivered on Tuesday so i can really find out what needs to be done, and then i will have a few more questions!

Thanks

Tom
 
The extractors should fit fine.

A basic head service is stripdown, hot tank, sandblast, a light skim on the gasket face, test all springs - shim if needed. Reface valves, recut seats, linish tips if worn, possibly linish rocker arm tips if worn. New welsh plugs, heat tab and date stamp. Standard type valve stem seals.

Two other things for consideration: Remove the old welsh plugs before getting the head serviced. It keeps people honest. :wink:

The rocker assembly also collects gunk inside the hollow tube. Dismantling it really needs a press and plates. It cannot be hot-tanked complete because some parts are alloy; for the same reason (mixed metals) it cannot be cold-tanked complete...

Also note exclusions from base costs - refacing exhaust ports, hardened seats, porting, manifold work, new valves and springs and fancy valve stem seals.

If you are in Melbourne or Adelaide, the service costs will be slightly cheaper due to lower costs of living.

Cheers, Adam.
 
Heres a few pics of my new parts i got today!

EXTRACTORS

imga1556sy1.jpg


2V HEAD

imga1557ao7.jpg


imga1560op2.jpg


INTAKE MANIFOLD AND 2 BARRELL STROMBERG

imga1559eo0.jpg


ROCKERS

imga1561jl4.jpg


EXHAUST TIPS

imga1565dq3.jpg



ALL TOGETHER
imga1562op3.jpg



The Whole lot is in Great Condition, and we will only need to put a kit through the carby, cut the valve seats, face and tip the valves and face the exhaust manifold.

We are going to try to port and polish it as well using my dads die grinder!

Anyone have any tips with port and polishing, and whats the best size stones to polish with?

Any help or past experiences with reconditioning heads would be great!



Tom
 
Port polishing the 2V is much easier to do than the log head. You actually have good access to your inlet runners! Try to get proper grinding stones the cheap ones die quickly on cast iron. A dremel style tool is also very useful for smaller details like getting into corners. I found that making a small cloth backed sandpaper wheel was good for doing the inlet runners as I had a long shaft on it in a drill . The other type of abrasive I used was cloth backed sandpaper and 3M scotch brite pad on the end of the dremel. If the sandpaper is of good quality, the combustion chambers will polish up beautifully. I got mine to pretty much mirror finish. First step is to use the coarse grinding stone to reshape the inlet and exhaust runners and remove the worst of the casting flaws. Then, use the sandpaper on the dremel to bring the surface finish up to the quality that you want. Main area for removing material was in the inlet and exhaust valve throats, they can be opened up considerably. On old heads like ours, port reshaping and finishing is a cheap exercise and will most likely result in some form of power gain. Just a note, I read an article on port polishing a couple of years ago on Inline Fever.
 
Tom XY Addo mentioned the white XY GS. If your's is original and a 2V it is pretty rare. Mine would be one of the few left in Oz. I know a guy in Melb has got one but he seems to have disappeared from the site.

Do you have any photos and where are you located?

Mark
 
They are rare eh Mark (probably all ended up GT clones :cry: )

But has anyone seen an XA GS 2V lately?
 
mkeily":hiyrott0 said:
Tom XY Addo mentioned the white XY GS. If your's is original and a 2V it is pretty rare. Mine would be one of the few left in Oz. I know a guy in Melb has got one but he seems to have disappeared from the site.

Do you have any photos and where are you located?

Mark

Hey Mark,
My XY is a genuine GS, but just original 250, not 2v.
Originally it was limelight Mettalic Green with saddle interior, with black stripes. But now its Jet Black.

14qg.jpg


Still got all the GS gear, kept safe in storage.

Just got the 2v head, to get a bit more power out of it. Which i am in the middle of rebuilding, right now.

Cheers
Tom
 
You can get the original 250 170HP fender badges off the fomoco.com site plus stripes and stuff. I love this site. They have some 2V stuff there.
A nice set of gold stripes and the 250 2V fender badges would look great.
Their on line service is reliable and their shop in Melb is awesome.

Mark
 
Yes Addo I have been there heaps of times. It is an amazing place to visit.
I interviewed David Frake when I was with Coles Myer about his business, (the online site is the best in the business), because I thought we could learn something.

Next time I catchup with you I can talk more about the way there business is set up. It is truly a shrine for Ford '67 to '75.

May talk to you about some other stuff shortly.


Mark
 
:D For cleaning up the rockers and the rocker shaft,try this.I have used spray on degreaser such as Gunk(R).Soak it good.To clean out the hollow shaft,use a bronze brush such as is used to clean a shotgun barrel.Scrub hard.Then flush with the solvent of your choice.Then get a pan that the complete assy will fit in.Fill it with water and some type of detergent that will cut grease and oil.Put it on a heat source of some type and boil it out good.Then take the bore brush with a rag wrapped around it and wipe out the rocker arm shaft.Dry well and lube well.Should work just fine and you wont have to press it apart to have the shop hot tank it.Damn site cheaper too.
Leo
 
Thanks for the advice Leo, I'll give it ago.

I have finally started to port and polish using a homemade grinder. It works great and so far we have taken out the casting marks and now we need to find some longer stones to go all the way in. Then i will try the sandpaper like Green Machine suggested,to get a mirror finish. and i will let you guys know how i go!

Should be sandblasted soon, and i will get some pics!

Tom
 
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