250 Deal for me

[66Sprinter]

I just picked up a 69 250 for $50. Engine ran two years ago when the guy drove the fastback into the shop for a V8 rebuild. I am not looking at a how to..more of a checkoff list. I saw Geezers motor and while in awe my rebuild will be just a tad more than stock.

I will need to check casting and block #'s but if anybody has an old check sheet for rebuilds I would certainly appreciate it.

Plans are to rebuild it for a winter swap. I will start tearing it down in a month or so when I get back from Germany, but wanted to start accumulating knowledge and parts while I am overseas staring at the Mercedes A-Class and the Smart cars.

Appreciate any tips.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back Jammer:

I don't have a check off sheet, but I would suggest that you get a shop manual right away and start studying. If you don't already have "The Falcon Six Cylinder Performance Handbook" that would also be helpful. Click on my signature for more information about it.

I have two suggestions for you to consider in your planning.

1st- know one of the biggest hurdles to overcome in building a 250 is the huge deck height- about 1.50". Less deck height improves Quench- which improves combustion efficiency. Given the head gaskets available, a deck height goal for performance is zero. To get a 250 even closer to that goal it will require the use of 255 V8 pistons that stand .085" taller than the standard 200/250 pistons and decking the top of the block .050" to .060". This will necessitate using washers on the head bolts on reassembly, a good idea any way, and careful figuring of your CR and possibly reducing it by unshrouding the intake valves in the combustion chambers.

2nd- If you have the C9DE- M head, you will have a 1.75" carb hole, but smaller 1.69" intake valves and no hardened seats. But, you will have a flat-topped log and slightly larger intkae tract volume than earlier heads. If you choose to use this head, upgrade to 1.75 intake valves and consider upgrading to hardened seat inserts. Whatever head you use, measure the volume in cubic centimeters for figuring the final CR.

Which ever way you go, be sure to include a complete static and dynamic balance to the list.

Enjoy the journey.

Adios, David

 

[66Sprinter]

Hi David,

thanks for the tip. My son brought the engine home this weekend but I have not see it yet since I paid cash last weekend. I am in Wiesbaden now and wont be home for another two weeks. I did purchase copy of your Falcon book and brought it with me to read. I am starting to sketch a plan of attack. I also saw what Geezer did with his engine and while that is way past my budget..it is a target to shoot for. The engine also came with a bell house and toploader. So I will just keep reading and take your notes as solid advice. I will send an em to my son to have him check numbers.

By the way...I spent a week working at the VW plant in Wolfsburg..and man what a sight. Couple that with driving around in a Focus 1.6 duratec and its no small wonder that Steve can get 225PS (Hp) with his setup.

Got to run..thanks...Auf Wiedersehen!

 

[mugsy]

I bought a used 200 short block off "a guy on the Internet". He stated that the previous owner had performed a "stock" rebuild. Well I checked it and the rebuild looked pretty good; except the cam was tiny!!! I measured it at 150* @ 0.050 lift. I would invest in a dial indicator and degree wheel and check the cam. Or just buy new one from FSPP that is a little hotter than stock.

tanx,
Mugsy