Huntersbo":3k7tzuch said:
you say that holleys and webbers are the best between cost and effiency?
if i know how to tune carburaters how long should this take to tune this system?
i just make adjustments between carbs in common right?
Yes, the recalibration tune up is done on all three, with no change between centre and end carbs.
I'm looking at this myself.
Job 1:
a)There is some data on squirter capacity per pump of the accelerator from the Weber DCOE book. I'll find it. All you have to do is copy the milliters or cc's per 10 squirts to equal to the specs for a 260 Z or Aussie Valiant E37/38/48/49.
b)Find the plastic cam position which allows the correct accelerator pump action in cc's. Holley and Weber have very accurate information here, and I've been privy to it from books just like everyone else has. It is the primary means of controlling correct progression.
c) ensure the squirter jet is sized to copy the Triple DCOE calibrations for aftermarket Datsun Z or Aussie Valiant E37/38/48/49's.
d) float level stays stock
e) The linkage must use as many stock Holley bits as posible. The linkage bar must be one peice, and then it must link to the standard Holley's 1.25" bolt hole. The linkage carrier must be rose jointed, and of stiff steel and very, very resistant to any torsional bending. The carb throttle turns through 80 degrees, and is linked via a pushrod on the 6.3 mm ball to the linkage. It turns through 80 degrees, and at half the throttle turn, the pushrod must be at 90 degrees to the throttle arm. This then joins a similar 1.25 out 6.3 mm ball, and the stock acceleartor runs the set up. With this, the total movement of a cable throttle pedal is 1.25" at the top of the pedal.
I've found that with mutliple carbs, you must have a long throttle travel, and it must allow you to hit wide open throttle without your legs submaringing into the floor boards. It's best to have a fairly high pedal, with a lot of lost leverage. This takes the weight off the throttle, and allows you to relax. There is three times the load than a stock Inter with 345 and 2-bbl, so you gonna have to gear it down with more pedal movement.
f) the throttle stop position is based on the centre carb. The best option is to adjust this as the leader, and then ensure any alterations to curb idel position or wide open throttle position are able to be followed on the out carbs. If you fail here, the tuning is worthless. Note that no torsional stress can be placed through the Holley throttle rod wihic holds the throttle blades...it isn't strong enough. (Trust me...I'm at least alive to tell the tail!)
Job2: Once you've met these pre conditions, totally forget about idel and progression from cruise to wide open throttle, and work on this:
Just sort out top end and mid range fuel air calibration on a dyno with no alterations to the carbs. Use the 4.5 power valve. Tune with a common set of 53 to 58 jets, and see where the fuel air ratio sits with an exhast gas analyser. The power valve limits the peak size of the jetting by about 6 sizes in this application. The power valve should remain, because it can richen the set-up at very low vaccum and aid power delivery. The fact that it won't idle is totally irrelevent at this stage.
The time cost for the Job 2, jetting, is about
6 hours tops, in conjunction with ignition advance optimising when the right jeta are founds. Adjusta-jet main jet conversions on the 2300 carb don't allow you to run below a 58 main jet size, so your stuck with starting small at 53, and then going up in stages, with quite a cost in gaskets. But it's heaps cheaper than a Weber kit.
Job 3:Once that is done, then the idle circuit can be sorted without compromising the power delivery. There is a vast amount of information on this, and the circuit just needs a brass restriction to sort it. There is inforamtion on this in the old 1980 SA Holley book by Dave Emmanuel. It is suggested that no alteration is needed unless it doesn't work. In this case, it will need altering to suit because one 500 is designed to serve one 400 cube engine, not one 42 cube cylinder. There is info galore here, so I won't go into it.
I'd say it would take
about 4 or 5 separate days of 3 hour strip and updates and checking to do, slowly restricting the air bleeds and idle ciruit tailoring, but once its done, it'll work perfectly. This can be done by yourself, following the procedure documented. The actual restrictions need to be made by a jewler or exceptional fitter. They are best made of brass rod, and then you can start small and open them out to suit. I'm gessing about 8 hours of you own time sorting the options, and
about 2 or 3 hours of jewler time, plus material cost. A few will get bent so make up 12 brass correctors which are drilled out to a internal diameter of 16 thou, and fit in the ~ 26 thou stock hole. There are two ways to attack it, by drilling out or restricting. Can't remember how long the brass pieces are, I'll get that data to you.
Final work is experimenting with close limit jets, if you can get them. This will allow very accurate calibration of the carbs.
This general IR Weber process of tuning is intimated in David Vizards Mini book in the Weber section, and the SA Weber carb book. It works because it focuses on getting the common faults all IR carb installations sorted out first.
Lastly, the Holley shouldn't be placed end on like we are suggesting, but there is no other option.
If you run into problems, then David Vizard has a totally cheap solution to fixing the matter, and its about 200 bucks of electric fuel pump, and some race tank foam filler. Three old Holley jets, and the use of a stainless steel stand pipe to scavange the float bowl, and you are there. You could almost tilt over on its door handles, and it would still work.
I've given details on that before in the Aussie section, about page seven from memory.
Can't help anymore than that.
Regards,
Dean