6.7L Cummins Turbos on eBay

Yeah. The line on the left is the surge line. The engine should stay under
that line at all times. If the engine gets to the right of the graph, that can
lead to excess inefficiency and turbo overspeed. A little to the right is
okay at maximum engine rpm, but you don't want to operate the turbo over there too much.

The vertical axis is the pressure ratio (PR). That is turbo outlet absolute
pressure divided by turbo intake absolute pressure.
PR of 1.5 = 7psi
PR of 2 = 14psi
PR of 2.5 = 21psi... and so on

The horizontal axis is the airflow. Usually rated in CFM or lbs/min. This
value can be read just like horsepower. If it is rated in lbs/min (like the HX-35 Variant) then
30lbs/min=300hp
40lbs/min = 400hp
50lbs/min=500hp
This is pretty much just a coincidence, but it sure makes the maps easy
to read!
If the map is rated in CFM, it is a little harder to convert into horsepower,
but after doing it for a while, you'll get the hang of it.

So just learn to look at the map and see PSI and Horsepower instead of
PR and Airflow and things become a whole lot easier.

On the Squirrel calculator, if you hold down CTRL, you can select more
than one graph at a time. Spool up a 450hp@4500rpm 250cu.in. engine
to full boost at 2000rpm and compare the HX35 Variant to some of the
common T04B turbos (like the V1/V2). You can see that the HX35 can
spool much sooner than most others without surging. Now, I know that it
would be kind of crazy to run 19psi at 2000rpm, but I think it's cool that
the compressor could do it (and with the VNT, the turbine would be
up for it as well...).

I spend hours doing this......
Have fun!
 
:LOL: thats funny.I used different numbers but wow 19 psi at 2000rpm :eek: that would be a ride!! I was thinking just around 10-15 psi max.and that would only be at the track.I would like to be able to adjust it from inside the car too.I would like to run about 5 or 6 psi normal driving and turn it up if someone decides to jump at me.hey let me know what you find out about the electronics on the hx35
 
let me know what you find out about the electronics on the hx35
Click to expand...

I think the proper name for the 6.7 turbo is Holset HE351VGT. Import guys
claim the compressor is just like a HX35. I have also heard that the
compressor is a HY35. But the diesel crowd says that the HE351VGT makes
more power than either the HX or HY35. There are also rumors of titanium
compressor wheels on these things. Can't wait to get one to see what it
really is.
 
I am curious as to how this would be mounted in an 82 F-150, or if it is possible without altering the hood/firewall. Other than the obvious exhaust and carb/intake modifications, what else would need doing? Where would be the best place to put it?
 
I bought a pair of these HE351VGTs on eBay and just got them in tonight.
I took one of them apart to get a look at everything.
These two happen to be going on my brother's '05 Hemi Ram. The
compressors fit the 5.7 Hemi really well up to 1000hp. Even though these
two happen to be going on a Dodge, I still think that one of these would
be great on a Ford Six!
Everything's pretty dirty in these pics. They will get cleaned tomorrow.

Left to right:
Mitsubishi TD04-13T (2002 Subaru WRX);
Garrett T3/T4-S3 Hybrid (Tyler's turbo);
Holset HE351VGT






What's under the VGT controller:



Vanes:



Where the vanes go:



Open:



Closed:
 
I am not sure I am lookaing at this right.So the vgt controller just lifts the vanes to activate the turbo at a certain load?I also read that the controller is ran off from the cars electrical but does that mean just any electrical source or is it more complicated and need a brain?I am trying to understand all this.man when you put them all side by side that holset surely dwarfs them
 
It looks huge! I don't think I could find room in the stang for it.
The VG does appear to be motor driven, and may reqiure a driver module to operate.
If you can get some pics of the driver motor and cable ends, including wire count, I might be able to sort some of it out. It looks like your stuck with the cover unless you fab something.

Stiill looks like a hell of a deal if you can use it!
 
The VGT slides the vanes in and out of the slots that you can see in the
turbine housing. This exposes less or more of the turbine wheel area. I think
it is a stepper motor that drives the vanes. To use the motor, some sort of
brain would be required. The third picture is the arm that the stepper motor
drives. I plan on just keeping the motor off and mechanically moving that
arm. Initially I plan on just using some sort of threaded rod to vary its
position. After I find a range where it works well, I'll look into making it
continuously variable. The turbo is pretty large. The wheels and center
section are not too big, it's the housings that take up the most space.
 
What are you putting your engine in? (Saw pics in photobucket) I would have too little room

If it is a stepper you may be able to find drawings for a driver if you can sort out the specs. Might even find an industrial or automotive (seat position control?) that would be workable. I would be curious if the slots would carbon up without at least occasionaly moving in & out the vanes.

For the price these things look like the ticket. Do yours need rebuilt? How much do they weigh?
 
That 250 six on photobucket is getting a Garrett t3/t4 hybrid and is going
in Tyler's '68 mustang. These two Holsets I picked up are going in my
brother's '05 Hemi Ram (under the bed STS style).

I am not 100% about the motors being stepper motors, that's just what
I've heard. It seems to make sense though, that way the computer could
keep track of the vane position.

The two holes under the cover are water ports (to keep the electronic
box cool). I will drill and tap these for plugs. The VGT shaft has a seal on
it and there was no oil under the cover. If the two water ports get
plugged, it shouldn't leak anything.

These turbos are being taken off new Dodge Rams (~10,000 miles) when
the vanes get stuck because of carbon build up from too much city
driving. This throws a code in the computer and the dealer replaces the
whole turbo. Both of mine were stuck when I got them, but I just tapped
on the arms with a soft hammer and they freed right up. The vanes move
fine now. The turbos look like they are in near new condition (except for
the carbon). I don't expect them to need rebuilt. I doubt the vanes would
get much carbon from a gas engine compared to the new diesels, which
are very plugged up from the factory.

They are pretty heavy. The shipping weight for each of mine was 53lbs.
That's with the motor and the cast downpipe. With both of those off, I am
guessing around 45lbs. The exhaust housing is most of this. It is built
really heavy. I have seen import guys fit this turbo into Hondas. Just
have to get creative I guess. They claim with the vanes all the way shut,
7-8lbs of boost comes on around 2000-2500rpm on their tiny four
cylinders, so I don't think the physical size of the housing denotes an
overly large A/R ratio.
 
The turbos are cleaned, painted, and ready to go. These two aren't going on
a ford six, so i probably won't post any more updates.

Total Investment: $350
(and yes, they DO have titanium compressor wheels!)



IMG_2228.jpg



IMG_2229.jpg
 
im curious how you are planing on returning the oil back to the motor on the twin turbo under the truck bed set up.
 
The third one was just too good to pass up!

I for one would be sorry to see this thread die. I am glad I didn't dive and buy one of the units, and I was close! After seeing the comparison foto's I can't imagine squeezing one under MY hood. Even though this is not a 6 install it would be interesting to follow.

I hope to get a super 60 at some point, and I doubt i will find one priced like these units.
 
If guys can squeeze these under the hood of a Honda or Mistubishi, surely there is room in a mustang? I hope so...

I'm going to try to pick one up, and I hope to put this in the 69 Mustang w/ a 250 I'm building. I think one of these can be the best of both worlds on almost any engine, providing the VGT can be controlled. Read on some forums about a guy using a mechanical wastegate to control it, and it looks like it works pretty good, although not optimal... Surely good enough.
 
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