I have a rebuilt IL6 from a performance shop, with a good reputation, but the car can rarely go through an intersection without stalling out. A few minutes cooling off and it starts right back up but dies at the next intersection. The temp gauge goes from 1/4 warm to at least 1/2 when slowing and then stopping. We’ve added an electronic fuel pump, same issue. It’s got an electronic ignition and we’ve tried using points, same issue. We’re using non ethanol fuel. No AC. Non factory I’ve added front disc brakes and power steering. Literally everything is new on the engine and it’s just can’t stay in the go mode. It seems to be vapor lock in my weak opinion but the fuel pump did not help. Thanks for any input.
67 In Line 6 Engine Dies at Almost Every Stop
- Thread starter Skip Banks
- Start date
Auto trans? It would be nice to know how hot in numbers of degrees f. it is getting. Electric fans may help because they move more air at a stop and at low speeds.
Auto trans - C4
Hi, you have to determine if the problem is caused by a spark or fuel issue. I would run it with an in line spark tester and a remote starter switch and quickly test for spark when it stalls. What is the RPM at idle? What carb are you running? I believe most carbs with the C4 had an anti stall dashpot. Does your carb have one? Have you adjusted the mixture screw on the carb? Also, just so you know the charging system is working, check the battery voltage at idle, and clean all the cable connections and grounds. Good luck
It sounds like the carb is heat soaking. What carb do you have and make sure the fuel line is nowhere near the block of valve cover. It could be percolating the fuel in the lines or it could be percolating fuel in the float bowl. If it’s a Mustang with the standard water temp gauge, half way is a normal temp for a fully warmed engine. The engine bay is hot in mine but with a 5 blade fan, it’s fine.
It could be as simple as your idle screw, after the car heats up the choke will open all the way leaving the idle screw at a point where maybe it is too low, what kind of choke do you have, electric, automatic or manual. Also, what kind of carb do you have ? Is it an aftermarket carb, a rebuilt carb ? I would say the dashpot answer that R Bron Co gave could be a simple fix but I am not sure how many single barrel carbs had those, I know my 2 barrel carbs had them on them and that would be the cause of stalling at stops. A shop with a good reputation can still make mistakes or install inferior parts. The gauge at halfway wouldn't worry me, it does sound like fuel issue. When it does die, pop the hood, take air cleaner off and manually pump the gas with the linkage and look in the carb and see if gas is squirting into the carb, and the choke should be wide open !
Wayne clark
Well-known member
When i initalley installed a 2300 Sniper on the 200 6 cyl in my 67 vert i was useing the supplied external fuel pump . Had major issues with it dieing from vapor lock . I found the rubber fuel line coming from the tank to the external fuel pump was absorbing so much heat off of the stock transverse mounted muffler it was causeing the gas to vaporize in the line .
As a side note when i installed the Vintage Inline 2x1 adapter about 2or 3 years back i had to raise it up some to iclear the flange on my Alumn valve cover. I purchased a pheonlic carb spacer for a Jeep . Check with Vintage inline for one for your eng & make a metal shield that fits to block that exhaust manifild heat from your carb ..
How is the condition of the fuel tank and fuel pick-up?