My 79 Granada is and has been smoking for several years, she runs great and I plan on keeping the car until I die, and I'm only 30. I am currently restoring my 64 Tempest and my 65 Galaxie and haven't started on my 63 Galaxie yet. AS long as the Granada dosent cause any problems it can wait a while I can use it as is but is there a simple fix to make it stop smoking?Eventually I plan on an engine rebuild but is there something I can do in the meantime. Also when I do rebuild the engine I want to keep it looking stock but get more power.; the way I see it the 250 and 200 are the same basic engine in 79 the granada with a 250 was rated at 97 hp, in 1966 the 200 mustang was rated at 120 hp. with the larger displacement and some aftermarket goodies 150 hp shouldn't be out of the question and that is my goal. I am no longer running emissions, the pump is disconnected and the cat is gutted
79 Granada Smoking
- Thread starter Galaxie
- Start date
A lot of people over here,
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
say that this stuff is pretty good at cleaning an engine:
http://auto-rx.com/
I have used it myself and it would appear to work as advertised, but it will not fix worn out parts of course.
It might help clean up the rings though.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
say that this stuff is pretty good at cleaning an engine:
http://auto-rx.com/
I have used it myself and it would appear to work as advertised, but it will not fix worn out parts of course.
It might help clean up the rings though.
If it smokes mostly at startup it may be just valve stem seals which is a relatively cheap and easy fix, if it smokes constantly its more likely a ring problem. Since it seems you still drive it and its not fouling the plugs ,valve seals seem likely and its worth a try before a total rebuild. Good luck! 
smoke is blue smokes the most right at startup, car starts very easy. Due to the unusual amount of rain the past several months i have not been able to drive it, behind the garage is dirt no pavement no gravel so I have the rear tires on jackstands and will let it run in gear in the garage about 15 minutes once a week (detatched garage), plug 4 has the tendancy to foul, 5 does too but nothing like 4, 1-3 never foul and 6 is very rare, I do plan on rebuilding it but that is about 5 years out and i am looking for a fix to hold me over, when I do the rebuild I want to get 150 HP
Well blue smoke is definetly from oil. So it is getting into the combustion chamber. And if its at start up the oil is leaking down the valve stems, past the oil seal and onto the intake valve or if the valve is open into the cylinder.
I swapped out valve seals on my engine right after I bought the car. You can do it and not have to remove the cylinder head. With my car #5 spark plug would foul out after 100 miles. I mean totally fouled out; no spark at all. I changed out the seals and drove the car for 7 years without any more fouling.
Replacing the valve stem seals is easy with the head still on. I used compressed air to hold the valve closed, and then used a spring compressor to remove the valve springs. There are two styles of valve spring compressors, you'll need the one when the head is still on the car type. Most auto parts store have them. I moved the piston to TDC, left the breaker bar on the crank nut and then applied the air pressure. The breaker bar will prevent the engine from turning over. Then use the spring compressor. I used the handle of a large screwdriver to tap the valve spring keeper and then a magnet to help remove the locks. After the keeper and locks are removed the spring slides right off and the seal will slide off the valve stem too. Then re-do everything in reverse order and release the air pressure.
I started with #1 cylinder and then followed the firing order. Rotate the engine 120* and do the second cylinder in the firing order. You obviously do both valves per cylinder because both are closed. Also remove all the spark plugs before you start so the engine is easier to turn over.
If you don't have access to an air compressor or compressed air, some guys here will feed a rope thru the spark plug hole and this will keep the valves in the closed position. The last thing you want to do is let the valve drop all the way into the cylinder. Then you will have to remove the head...
I swapped out valve seals on my engine right after I bought the car. You can do it and not have to remove the cylinder head. With my car #5 spark plug would foul out after 100 miles. I mean totally fouled out; no spark at all. I changed out the seals and drove the car for 7 years without any more fouling.
Replacing the valve stem seals is easy with the head still on. I used compressed air to hold the valve closed, and then used a spring compressor to remove the valve springs. There are two styles of valve spring compressors, you'll need the one when the head is still on the car type. Most auto parts store have them. I moved the piston to TDC, left the breaker bar on the crank nut and then applied the air pressure. The breaker bar will prevent the engine from turning over. Then use the spring compressor. I used the handle of a large screwdriver to tap the valve spring keeper and then a magnet to help remove the locks. After the keeper and locks are removed the spring slides right off and the seal will slide off the valve stem too. Then re-do everything in reverse order and release the air pressure.
I started with #1 cylinder and then followed the firing order. Rotate the engine 120* and do the second cylinder in the firing order. You obviously do both valves per cylinder because both are closed. Also remove all the spark plugs before you start so the engine is easier to turn over.
If you don't have access to an air compressor or compressed air, some guys here will feed a rope thru the spark plug hole and this will keep the valves in the closed position. The last thing you want to do is let the valve drop all the way into the cylinder. Then you will have to remove the head...
The other way to make sure its teh vavle stem seals is to have afriend follow you whenyou drive your car. If it smokes when accelerating then its the rings. If the blue-ish smoke come out when you let your foot off the gas "at speed" and deccelerate then its the seals. During this last move the engine is at its highest vacuum and the vac is sucking the oil right in. Let us know...
