All Small Six 80’s Fairmont Winter Rebuild

This relates to all small sixes

falconcritter

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Supporter 2018
This is the block I have from my recent hall . I have found the original receipt for Machine Work and it was from March of 2000 . It has been in the a garage sitting in a trash bag . As you can see very light rust has formed in the cylinders . Would 0000 steel Wool harm the cyl walls ?
 

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get yourself a brush hone of the correct size and hone the bores to get the correct crosshatch, then clean it till you get no residue with a clean white rag. This gives the best finish to the bores to ensure seal and long life. Otherwise its a straight out job. I didnt know you guys had the old precrossflows that late in the falcons, we dumped them in 76.
 
get yourself a brush hone of the correct size and hone the bores to get the correct crosshatch, then clean it till you get no residue with a clean white rag. This gives the best finish to the bores to ensure seal and long life. Otherwise its a straight out job. I didnt know you guys had the old precrossflows that late in the falcons, we dumped them in 76.
We had then in Mustangs 79 - 83 . Then we dumped them !
 
I got the cylinders cleaned , I turned it over and I found a bigger mess . Everywhere it has this light rust it feels like it is sticky . I think maybe the machine shop sprayed something in the engine the preserve it . But it just collected the moisture .
 

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I wouldn't be concerned with the light rust in the main area; clean it off and install the main bearings.

As for the cam bearings, just replace them.
 
I wouldn't be concerned with the light rust in the main area; clean it off and install the main bearings.

As for the cam bearings, just replace them.
I agree- that does not look that bad. At all. In my climate a raw clean engine can get like that in two days. That surface rust will wipe out, with the goo usually. Oil based solvent like spray brake-clean, or gasoline, wipe the goo out. IMO that's ready to assemble after 5 minutes' clean up.
 
2X^
that worried? go w/the real light ‘skotchbright’ (body man’s "plastic wool” a la our dish cleaning pads) sprayed w/the BC-er in grey or white (fine) OR the actual green disk one. Go just enuff the BC runs off clean.

I found a fox wagon after 7 yr search (my final car for life I hope). Is an 85 LTD 3.8L bent6. They lost the 3.3 in ’83, 1st yr of the model (almost identical to Fairmont/zephyr). REAL transition car - had: carb & TBI; 4, i6, bent6 & bent8 motors; manny, 3 & 4 speed (or OD) automatics, and many many more ~ Unfortunately it AND the panther platform had same name. (This is ’83/6). No fun on prts search. Cant find “Y” pipe. At least the merc was “Grand” added to crown vic up sized model (105 inch WB = “marquis” / "grand marquis” = 114 inch WB ).
 
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I'd wipe every thing down with a shop rag with your favorite solvent, if it feels smooth its good to go even if it has some black staining provided there is no pitting it'll be ok.
 
I got the cylinders cleaned , I turned it over and I found a bigger mess . Everywhere it has this light rust it feels like it is sticky . I think maybe the machine shop sprayed something in the engine the preserve it . But it just collected the moisture .
WD 40 will do that after a while, do not ask me how I know.:mad:
 
“...do not ask ..."
“Hey 'drag’, I hear..."
Remember Click’n Clack muse on bout “Cosmoline”?

On a separate note (valve train) I repurposed long gun brush
off nother bench, this in the home garage, for longer tinnier holes.
Same brake clean followed by oil BUT... that final application m u c h
closer to assembly (to avoid a recreate).
 
SO FRESH AND CLEAN..CLEAN ! Brake Clean did the trick ! I still need a lifter brush , and main cap bolts .
 

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