About to start reassembly and could use some ideas

cr_bobcat

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So I've pretty much resigned myself to the fact that I'm going to have to drill out this pain in the something something broken lower water pump bolt. Whatever the previous guy put this thing in with was something serious. There's no backing it out, running it all the way through, or even releasing it with liquid wrench, CRC, whatever. The easy out will break out a couple of threads of the bolt at a time, comes out as an itty bitty little doughnut maybe 3 mm wide. The flipping thing just keeps sheering off. :banghead: It's time for a cobalt bit and a tap. I bought a helicoil kit too just in case I bugger it up right good.

Haven't had time to try using the impact gun I borrowed to release the balancer bolt, but that's the last hurdle of my disassembly. Unless someone here tells me thats a stupid idea...

Will pull the carb shortly too. It's a Holley 1940, non-SCV. She'll get broken down, soaked, and rebuilt. I've done some digging around and the dizzy that I have is a 73 Ford with a Pertronix that my Uncle and I installed 15-20 years ago. She's still got a lot of git up and go - never fails to start. I figure why fix what ain't broke. Might be time for a new cap, wires, and plugs though. Simple maintenance there.

New parts to go on will be the new balancer, replacement stock timing chain/gears, water pump, and engine mounts (tranny mount was just replaced a few months ago).

I don't want to get into the block or rebuilding the head at this point. The head has to cracked exhaust mount bosses (the front one and the back one). The front was half a hole (if such a thing can exist) with a psuedo-stud welded into place. It's held for 20 years, my guess is it'll hold for a few more till I decide whether or not to mod a different log head or go the more expensive aluminum head route from CI.

So aside from the afore-mentioned updates, anybody have any suggestions for relatively economical upgrades that put me on the path towards my end goal of a solid street/strip ride? I'd love to go with the headers and exhaust but I don't think I could explain that sizable of purchase away to the wife-lady this year. I feel like I'm missing something simple that will tick me off that I didn't think of while I've got her half torn apart. The radiator is the larger V8 unit so that's solid.

Maybe I should consider upgrading my coolant overflow tank from a 20 yr old Fosters can to somethin that's more purty. But that would probably decrease performance... :beer:
 
You could always go for a NEW Fosters can.Look at the pleasure you will have emptying it. :rolflmao: :beer:
Good luck.Have Fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
woodbutcher":2jq1re6q said:
You could always go for a NEW Fosters can.Look at the pleasure you will have emptying it. :rolflmao: :beer:
Good luck.Have Fun.Be safe.
Leo

just one?!?
 
cr_bobcat":azx3veds said:
Oooooooo...dual collectors. That's got to be good for a 15% boost.

Actually, from now on I'm only purchasing parts from

http://www.kalecoauto.com

while you are there, grab me a boost bar, the cross drilled brake lines, and the oil bypass kit. i am not ready for the dual out O pipe yet. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: oh and the check is in the mail.........




















to where i have no idea, but its in the mail. :rolflmao: :rolflmao:
 
:rolflmao: Wellllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll,maybe one DOZEN or so. :rolflmao: :rolflmao:
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
If you have a 200 you could use a carb from a 250 or 300 possibly and I think some guys advance the timing a bit when installing timing gear and chain.
 
What's a "safe" amount of advance? I know some have recommended a 4 deg of advance for the Clay Smith cams, but to be honest I have absolutely no clue as to what is in the block right now. I don't suppose the manufacturers would be so kind as to have stamped it so that I don't have to pull it to figure out what the heck is in there.

The previous owner had the engine rebuilt, but that was well over 20 yrs ago. The car has been extremely reliable so whoever did the build must have been somewhat competent. The only thing I've noticed that wasn't done was updating the speedo gear. They must've changed the rear end ratio because my gauge is off by about 17%. And I've just been too lazy to change it so I just lived with it...
 
I don't know a safe amount but there is info on that in the Falcon Performance Manual which is a good resource if you have a 144-250 six. It has tips on performance upgrades that are affordable. I have read on here recently that even stock motors could benefit from an advance probably. Also the DSII seems to be considered the best performance for the little they cost if bought right and it is apparently a good investment to have them custom curved. There are at least a couple of guys on this site that can do that for you.
 
I started running it at 12 deg adv this Sept. It was sitting at around 8. That really opened things up for me. I wasn't sure how much more advance to go with from the 12 deg from the spec sheets. I wasn't sure how inter-related cam advance and timing were. So I didn't try to go too far on that. I don't have a degree wheel to figure out where I'm at nor do I know exactly what's in there to begin with. Maybe I'll find out more once I get the timing cover off. My hopes is that maybe there's a way to know what is in there without having to pull it. I don't plan on popping the head off at this time. Might be a job for next year when I can pull together the funds to refresh the head.

I did finally get that stubborn bolt out last night. 3 weeks of penetrating oil, drilled out and finally broke loose when I started running the tap in. Of course it got wedged up against the cylinder wall so I just used a persuader and a screwdriver to convince it to see things my way...
 
cr_bobcat":123fn6aq said:
I started running it at 12 deg adv this Sept. It was sitting at around 8. That really opened things up for me. I wasn't sure how much more advance to go with from the 12 deg from the spec sheets. I wasn't sure how inter-related cam advance and timing were. So I didn't try to go too far on that. I don't have a degree wheel to figure out where I'm at nor do I know exactly what's in there to begin with. Maybe I'll find out more once I get the timing cover off. My hopes is that maybe there's a way to know what is in there without having to pull it. I don't plan on popping the head off at this time. Might be a job for next year when I can pull together the funds to refresh the head.

I did finally get that stubborn bolt out last night. 3 weeks of penetrating oil, drilled out and finally broke loose when I started running the tap in. Of course it got wedged up against the cylinder wall so I just used a persuader and a screwdriver to convince it to see things my way...

ignition timing and cam timing have little to do with each other. 12 degrees ignition timing is good, 14 would be better.
 
Thanks for the tip. I'll make a note to advance the timing another 2 degrees.

I think the biggest thing I need right now is a heat wave. Maybe some temps in the 30's (that's 0-5 C for our Aussie and Kiwi friends) so I can work for more than about 30 min at a time. I may be a crazy Yank who can handle the cold fairly well but my dexterity has been suffering with this current cold spell. Cedar Rapids has been in the single digits for a couple of weeks now and my garage isn't heated so progress is slow. Think my wife will notice if I start painting parts in the bathroom?

How concerned should I be about metal chips from my broken bolt in the water channel? I've run a magnet wand through there about 15 times. May be overkill but paranoia isn't all that bad right? To quote Curt Cobain "Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get me."
 
Wow. Just gave the old timing chain a squeeze and can't believe the amount of play in it. Glad I decided to tear down a little bit further. I haven't measured it yet but it's a way loose....
 
The RockAuto special timing set that I acquired doesn't have adjustable slots so I went and placed the order for a 4 deg offset key last night. So I've got that going for me. Now to head to the HW store and build up balancer installer device of some sorts that I can put a wrench on and turn the crank such that the keyways align and I can start thinking about assembly.
 
In the Falcon Performance Manual they give info on a certain year timing chain set for added performance if I recall correctly.
 
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