adjustable rockers (preload adj.)?

LameHoof65

Famous Member
I have my newly machined head on and torqued down, but i have never used adjustable rockers. Seems like I have turned down each rocker adj. quite a bit to keep the pushrods in place under the rocker arm. I know the sequence on a warmed engine regarding the in car adjustment, but I am afraid I am not adjusting these for the initial startup right? Any recommendations, thoughts or considerations? I have the 1.5 stock adj. rocker arm.
 
well there is different possible answers here, if you have hydralic lifters, or solid lifters. im gonna take a guess and say they are hydralic. for those prime the lifters 1st, then on each fully CLOSED valve tighten the adjuster nut down till you cant spin the pushrod with your fingers. so you will have to turn the engine over my hand till thats done. then with valve cover off crank engine and let it warm up to operating temp and then back the nut off till you here it start to tick then slowly tighten it back up to where it stops ticking, then put 1/4 round preload on it and move on to the next one until there all done. shut engine off. put on valve cover. drive. thats how ive always done it.
 
Yes, they are hydraulic (sorry for not stating that). I have the CSdpatterhyd cam 264/274 @110. I let my lifters soak for a couple of weeks in oil before the install---some say that helps--but I am sure I have bled some of them trying to get all the pushrods and rockers adjusted to stay in on hand rotation. I have just been rotating the engine and adjusting the ones that are so loose they fall out of the rocker adjusting nut. My plan is to keep adjusting down until all remain in the pushrod seats and then do the final adjustments after initial startup..I don't know if that is the correct way or not. I am not so worried about the adjustment once I get it in the engine bay but just that initial startup and breaking in of the new cam??
 
Lifters aren't that porous. Soaking for a couple of weeks is not really necessary in terms of preparing them - but it won't hurt, either. Depressing them repeatedly while upright in a can of oil will bleed out air, but leave stored in oil then until fitted.

The spring inside lifters is enough to "recover" with only the dead weight of a pushrod on it, even if the lifter is empty of fluid.

If everything is new, then all adjustments for inlet will be near-identical, and all exhaust settings nearly the same as each other. Cam base circle may vary slightly between inlet and exhaust, so don't worry about minor cross-differences.

A lifter has about 120 thou of "tolerance" in its adjustment; you want to be on the light to middling side of that amount.

With just the dead weight of a pushrod sitting on the lifter (engine at appropriate cycle timing for setting rockers), try gently jiggling the lifter up and down. It will feel tacky from the assembly lube but movement will be noticeable as it goes from metal-metal contact to free, and back again.

Small incremental adjustments are needed until this jiggling no longer results in the pushrod leaving the lifter "socket". Now add no more than 360° of adjuster.

Measure the underhead clearance of the rocker ajuster to rocker arm, and replicate on other cylinders. That should wrap it up for you.

Regards, Adam.
 
I think I am close to that now addo, but now I am wondering if I should have primed the pump before I did all that tightening of the rockers? Pro94's suggestion makes sense, or can I do it and then just recheck ea. for proper adjustment? By the way I am thinking the rotation of the pump is "clockwise", correct? And I know that I should add 3 to 4 quarts with a regular pan for the prime but what about with this hi-energy pan Mike sent me...do I need more oil for priming? And finally, what oil should I use to begin with---everything I have at home gets valvoline 10w-30 but I read where some are using Rotella/Shell at 15w-40, for the zinc. Yea, I know more questions....these are just things I am not sure of, just a few of many?
 
I used the Rotella 15W-40, soaked the lifters in oil and primed/pushed the air bubbles out (some say this is not necessary, but I have always done it). By hand turn your engine over to TDC at #1 cyl. and you can adjust...I cannot remember which ones off the top of my head right now, but will find out. But to adjust the certain ones at TDC you tighten down adj. nut till you can no longer spin the pushrod (this is with clean fingers), then add another 1/4 turn for preload. Then you turn your engine over to TDC at #6 and adjust the others the same.
And yes do prime your pump/engine, take a 5/16" socket, drill motor and spin it clockwise till you see oil at the head. I let mine go for about 2 minutes.
Once the engine has run for a while (putting some miles on it), it is good to go back and adjust the valves again. That's how I did it.

Kirk
 
I used to "prime" lifters and pumps, but don't anymore. I just coat the lifters with assembly lube and shove them in.

Then I spin the oil pump with a gutted distributor. The oil pump will pick up oil and send it thru the system, filling all the passages, pushrods, and lifters.

As far as preload, you usually need between .050 - .075" on the lifter. Turn the engine so that the lifter is resting on the base circle of the cam and the valve is completely closed. Tighten the adjustment just until there is no slack between the pushrod, lifter,and rocker. Then add 3/4 turn. Repeat on all valves.
 
This is a procedure I definitely suggest getting the shop manual out for. It has a great procedure about what to look for so you know the valve is closed in the compression cycle.

I heard 1/4-3/4 turns of preload from a number of sources. I figured I'd play the average of 1/2 turn after no clearance.

Slade
 
I just went to Sam's and they had 6 gal.s of Shell Rotella 15w40 for about $45. So that's what I will use to break this thing in. Thanks for the information, I looked in my two manuals and they gave the sequence and the information for doing the post start up adjustments but nothing on getting the adjustment ready for the initial startup. I plan breaking the cam in on initial startup---even if the rockers/lifters rattle a little. I didn't want to start-it up have to shut it down to re-adjust and start it up again--didn't really think that would be good for the cam. I remember when I was younger I saw people adjust those rockers with the valve cover off with the engine running and oil being everywhere---and don't want that mess either. Again, thanks I wouldn't have gotten this far if it hadn't been for this forum.
 
you can't adjust shaft mounted rockers with it running...the adjuster is moveing. I think only mikes full roller rockers are th eonly ones on a small six you can adjust while running.
 
Yea, that could be pretty traumatic for a hypertensive guy like me--I was talking about the older 8cy. cars with the center adjusting stud/nut. I just hope this thing runs once I get it in the bay...if it don't my wife is going to run me off!
 
well I have a set of the roller tips from mike and I think the posi locks would be tough with the car running....that and the 12pt nut will make the wrench bounce a bit
 
Save yourself some $$$, and buy a rubber valve cover gasket during the first 1000 miles. They leak at little (at least for me) but if you are mental like me I checked them every 200 miles until I was sure I was happy. You can reuse a rubber valve cover gasket. After you are happy, then put a cork one in.

Just my 2 cents.

You are right. Once you start up, do the cam break in. I just dipped my lifters (per the instructions from COMPCAM). Now that I think of it...COMPCAM has some great initial set up instructions that I still follow. I printed the page out and stuck it in my shop manual. Let me find them and link it.

Here it is:
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instr ... es/145.pdf

Go to steps 9-11 on the 2nd page. They actually say not to pre-lube the lifters, only give them an oil bath (quick dip) and say it can make the adjustment process more wack if they are pumped up.

Slade
 
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