Aftermarket rods for a 250 or 200?
- Thread starter 64xm
- Start date
No, not off the shelf.
Locally, a specialist suplier Ridgecrest will match exceed imports for quality and they will be perfect for dimensions, but not price unless you have a few orders.
Covering Note:
Rod swaps need expert machining help, so grab a copy of this, and go talk with a competent race engine builder, then track down a supply of the rods that work best for your desired engine out put.
If you don't mind high compression and opening the chamber cc of the heads 10 cc then you could use pistons like the taller 1.75" 60 thou over 253 ACL Race Holden items with there 9 cc dish volume, and 5.70" Chev rods will work well together with a 15 thou wrist pin hone out in a well cared for 250 block.
Rod details and Options:
The stock specs for tall deck 200's and 250's are 0.912" wrist pin, 5.88 or 6.27" rod centre spacing, 2.124" main bearing diameter. The 3.2, 3.9 ad 4.0 OHC's have 6.27, 5.88, or 6.06" versions.
The AU rods are all 6.06", and able to hack 450 hp, the BA Turbo about 550 due to one extra oil hole, the Typhoon/Tornado/Force 6 item, well over that. This last one is the best factory Ford rod . Ford doesn't upgrade rods unless it is to solve a problem.
People use Chrysler 215/245/265 0.927" wrist pin, 5.75" rod centre spacing, 2.0" main bearing diameter, about same width as 250 bearing
or Custom Scat, or Lunati rip-offs of Chevrolet Small or large Journal as found in 283/302/ early 327
0.927" wrist pin, 5.70, 6.00, or 6.125 or 6.20" rod centre spacing, 2.0" or2.1" main bearing diameter, about same width as 250 bearing.
The last Nizpro 1500 hp 4.0 twin cam turbo ran just a Precision steel crank, good old 6" centre spacing Chev rods, and a partly sleaved block.
The OHV 250 is similar down below to the AU, and can take any rod listed above if you use the right pistons.
Locally, a specialist suplier Ridgecrest will match exceed imports for quality and they will be perfect for dimensions, but not price unless you have a few orders.
Covering Note:
Rod swaps need expert machining help, so grab a copy of this, and go talk with a competent race engine builder, then track down a supply of the rods that work best for your desired engine out put.
If you don't mind high compression and opening the chamber cc of the heads 10 cc then you could use pistons like the taller 1.75" 60 thou over 253 ACL Race Holden items with there 9 cc dish volume, and 5.70" Chev rods will work well together with a 15 thou wrist pin hone out in a well cared for 250 block.
Rod details and Options:
The stock specs for tall deck 200's and 250's are 0.912" wrist pin, 5.88 or 6.27" rod centre spacing, 2.124" main bearing diameter. The 3.2, 3.9 ad 4.0 OHC's have 6.27, 5.88, or 6.06" versions.
The AU rods are all 6.06", and able to hack 450 hp, the BA Turbo about 550 due to one extra oil hole, the Typhoon/Tornado/Force 6 item, well over that. This last one is the best factory Ford rod . Ford doesn't upgrade rods unless it is to solve a problem.
People use Chrysler 215/245/265 0.927" wrist pin, 5.75" rod centre spacing, 2.0" main bearing diameter, about same width as 250 bearing
or Custom Scat, or Lunati rip-offs of Chevrolet Small or large Journal as found in 283/302/ early 327
0.927" wrist pin, 5.70, 6.00, or 6.125 or 6.20" rod centre spacing, 2.0" or2.1" main bearing diameter, about same width as 250 bearing.
The last Nizpro 1500 hp 4.0 twin cam turbo ran just a Precision steel crank, good old 6" centre spacing Chev rods, and a partly sleaved block.
The OHV 250 is similar down below to the AU, and can take any rod listed above if you use the right pistons.
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