Alright, I am confused -

B

Bort62

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Not to toot my own horn, but I don't often run up against a problem that I don't know what it is.

But right now, Im square in the middle of one.

It's a 200 w/ 1100 and DSII running off of GM a module.

Problem is, it won't run. Its a little hard to start, and when it does it kicks over, idles down, and dies.

I've gone through the ignition with a fine toothed comb (O-scope, function generator, tested it all) and it all works fine. I replaced it all any way too, with no change.

So I thought it must be fuel, but It won't run on the idle OR main circuit. What's worse, is it will die while I am pumping the throttle and I can SEE gas squirting out of the ACC pump as well as out of the main circuit.

And it will still die. I figured out that when it is dying, if I spray a shot of carb cleaner down it, it will rev back up again for a second and I can kinda keep it alive that way - which really makes me think it's a fuel problem except I can see the fuel flowing in there.

It was working fine, but in the process of doing this turbo install, I had it idling a lot. I was revving it up with everything attached to make sure it all worked, and when I let it back down to idle - it died. Hasn't run right since.

So I am sorta stumped. I will probably try another carb today, but I am skeptical of that being it. I also did a comp check to make sure I didn't toast a valve or something, except it came back 150-160 across the board.

So I am really confused.

I swapped plugs, too. No change.

Possible I wasted the Pv in the 1100? The plugs I pulled our were BLACK with soot, but I had also been idling it a lot so tat doesn't seem too strange.

And if the PV were wasted and dumping fuel, I doubt that spraying carb cleaner would help it kick back up. - It's just more fuel.

Anyway, suggestions are welcome. I'm an EFI guy, dammit.
 
I'd start looking for vacuum leaks. Revving the engine and applying boost for the first time could definitely cause some leaks in previously marginal seals. Did you install a solid float? Maybe the boost collapsed your float and threw off the fuel level.
 
I think (could be wrong tho) the power valve in the 1100 is that rod next to the main jet that they tell you not to touch, its not a rubber thing like in the holley 2 & 4 bbls. The thing that looks like a powervalve is for the SCV system for the Load O's.

Just for fun unhook your vacuum advance. On the GM's it was common for the wires to break coming out of the pickup coil so when the advance would start to pull it would break the wires and loose spark. When that happend the vac would drop so it would relax and make contact again till the vac came up and so on. I have not heard of this with the DS's. I assume its not as big a problem because ford used larger wires.
 
BORT62

.....CHECK YOUR COIL. THEY DON'T LIKE SLOW IDLES FOR VERY LONG.

COULD BE JUST ENOUGH SPARK TO GET IT GOING. CHECK IT FOR

OHMS 1st AND THEN FEEL TO SEE IF IT IS WARM. SOMETIMES HEAT

WILL CHANGE THEM. IT'S A QUICK ELIMANATOR.

GOOD LUCK

LIVE IN GRACE

LEROY POLL
 
Im was talking about the pickup coil thats inside around the dizzy shaft. On the GM's it has small little short wires that go to the module that is mounted in the base. The fords have the larger orange and purple wires that lead out of the dizzy to the external module. Both systems those wires flex as the vacuum advance pulls in.

Bad fuel is a good thought, maybe for a test get a gas can with fresh gas and a chunk of hose direct to the fuel pump see if there is any change. I have torn motors apart before discovering a tank full of water.
 
Let me qualify my remarks by saying I have not run the DS II or a turbo, and I replaced my 1100 carb..... But......
Is the 100 carb compatible with the DSII?
It sounds like you may have the SCV equipped carb.
If you run the distributor off of the ported vacuum source on the 1100, then the vacuum signal is going to be altered by the SCV and the venturi vacuum that it can send to the distributor.
Are you running mainfold vacuum to the Distributor?
Manifold vacuum is going to provide a smoother idle since the ignition is advanced and generates more vacuum.
My opinion is to get rid of the SCV or change carbs because if the SCV is stuck in either position, your signal to the distributor is altered if you are hooked to the carb's vacuum port.
Other than that, have you re-checked your timing and confirmed that your vacuum advance can is holding vac and advancing the timing?
What is/was your total timing when the car is idling? Rough numbers (without a turbo) would be about 25 deg. (10 deg initial + 15 deg due to vac)
Maybe when the engine was reved the vac can developed a leak or the SCV got stuck in a position.
Disconnect & plug the vac advance and adjust the static timing to 20 or 25 deg and see if it will idle correctly. (of course since I don't know anything about timing with a turbo, your figures may vary)
Doug
 
My impression is that the timing has drifted somehow - maybe a sheared rollpin.
 
Addo, that's the first suggestion i've heard that really makes sense ( no offense everyone else)

Because to me, it seems like the timing is off as well. I had forgotten about a sheared pin. I would check the timing with a light, but that's hard when the fucker won't run.

I guess tomorrow night I will yank the dist out and make sure everything is together.

I did try moving the dist around to see if it would run better, and it made no change - but if the pin is sheared it could be all over the damn place.
 
I should mention that the pickup coil seems fine - tested it's output with a scope, and im getting spark no problem.
 
Was the DS II a newly rebuilt or junkyard?
I've had a distributor with worn bushings where I could get the timing and gap set and the thing ran well. Then down the road mabe 1 mile, maybe 50 miles, it would begin to misfire. Checked gap & timing again and they were not where I last set them.
Doug
 
Well, there really is no gap to check on a DS.

However, I will go through the dist tonight. It is rebuilt, but it is a parts store rebuild so who knows.

It did work fine for about 1000 miles tho.
 
By any chance does this have a condensor hooked up to the coil? Like for noise suppresion?I've had a couple of points distributors that have had bad condensors, that did exactly the same thing.
 
any chance that the exhaust is blocked at the manifold or down the pipe sounds dumb don't ask me how but I had it happen .
 
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