All Small Six Any Tips on Removing Large Log Head?

This relates to all small sixes

marquis83

Well-known member
Went down to the junkyard today and happened upon a 200 in a 81 fairmont futura.

It's a high mount starter block.

Someone took the carb and distributor already.

I managed to remove the valve cover and loosen all the head bolts, but had to quit as it was too hot out.

The exhaust is cut off already so no worries there.

What needs to be removed from the front of the engine?

Any suggestions on pulling it out? I'm going back tomorrow with a hammer and a pry bar.
 

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Home now looking at my ford six exploded view shirt.

Doesn't appear that the timing cover will need to be removed to pull the head.

Will update tomorrow if I'm victorious.
 
I would get the Fairmont cable gas pedal assembly along with the throttle cable bracket that bolts to the side of the block.
The Fairmont cable gas pedal can be installed in an early Ford by spacing it 1" off the floor.
If you have a C4 a cheap C4 kick down cable kit can be bought on eBay then attached to a hole that you drill in the gas pedal lever below the throttle cable.
I see that head still has the aluminum carb. adapter and the inside 3/8"x 5/16" stud on it. That's good. I don't think these parts can be bought new.
Other good parts are the automatic shift bellcrank assembly and the shifter rods for use in a column shift C4 conversion.
If you are going to run a one Carter YF or YFA type carb. get the kick down linkage.
I would also get the valve cover. Put any bolts you may want in your tool box.
 
I got home with the Large Log.

It's a shame this block will probably be scrapped, still has the crosshatching in the cylinder walls.

blockhi.jpeg
 
I would get the Fairmont cable gas pedal assembly along with the throttle cable bracket that bolts to the side of the block.
The Fairmont cable gas pedal can be installed in an early Ford by spacing it 1" off the floor.
If you have a C4 a cheap C4 kick down cable kit can be bought on eBay then attached to a hole that you drill in the gas pedal lever below the throttle cable.
I see that head still has the aluminum carb. adapter and the inside 3/8"x 5/16" stud on it. That's good. I don't think these parts can be bought new.
Other good parts are the automatic shift bellcrank assembly and the shifter rods for use in a column shift C4 conversion.
If you are going to run a one Carter YF or YFA type carb. get the kick down linkage.
I would also get the valve cover. Put any bolts you may want in your tool box.
My plan is to take it to my machinist and have him deck the head, 3 angle valve job and machine the carb opening for a 2 barrel.
 
My plan is to take it to my machinist and have him deck the head, 3 angle valve job and machine the carb opening for a 2 barrel

Does your machinist have a furnace for welding-brazing cast iron?
You may want to find out if the machining weldiing-brazing is successful without cracking the log intake before you have the head rebuilt.
 
Does your machinist have a furnace for welding-brazing cast iron?
You may want to find out if the machining weldiing-brazing is successful without cracking the log intake before you have the head rebuilt.
If its a huge risk to the intake I might just slice it off and do a custom intake setup.

I have 2 heads currently, one is on the car in need of valve seals and the other is sitting in the back of my truck.

Just need to be able to drive it around till I get settled in my new place next month.
 
If its a huge risk to the intake I might just slice it off and do a custom intake setup.

I have 2 heads currently, one is on the car in need of valve seals and the other is sitting in the back of my truck.

Just need to be able to drive it around till I get settled in my new place next month.
I read that most sliced off log heads end up being scrapped. The log head six has more problems than just the intake.
You may want to find a professional welding shop experienced in cast iron to built up the area where the 2V adapter will mount then have it machined.
 
There's so much emmission crap on that engine it's hard to tell from the pic if the head has a hex-log or a flat-top one. Looks like a flat-top. They will take less filling and milling than a hex-log to get the bigger carb flange mounted.
 
There's so much emmission crap on that engine it's hard to tell from the pic if the head has a hex-log or a flat-top one. Looks like a flat-top. They will take less filling and milling than a hex-log to get the bigger carb flange mounted.
I'll post some more pictures today.

I read that most sliced off log heads end up being scrapped. The log head six has more problems than just the intake.
You may want to find a professional welding shop experienced in cast iron to built up the area where the 2V adapter will mount then have it machined.
I did end up finding those threads eventually and now considering just getting it milled and a valve job instead of extensive mods.
 
I recently picked up an E0 hex-log head. And all I'm doing is a thorough rebuild with a 3-angle valve job, nothing fancy. I've got an automatic, so there's little advantage in making a lot of mods for high RPM breathing, the engine rarely gets much above 4500.
 
I have seen many NOS small base Rochester 2V carbs for sale on eBay. Small base Mercury Marine Rochester 2V carbs are also available.
I thought was interesting that the small base Mercury Marine Rochester 2 barrel carbs only had one idle mixture screw.
Small base 2V carbs have the throttle bores close together so they would work well on an enlarged intake bore large log head with a home made adapter.
No need to to mill, braze or weld the head. The Weber carb kits are around $1,200 + the last time I looked. Many times they need to be re-jetted.
The also have a very ugly looking air cleaner. The Weber kit has no provision for a PCV valve hose which some newbies attach to the bowl vent.
 
I have seen many NOS small base Rochester 2V carbs for sale on eBay.
X2^^ An excellent carb @ 280 cfm- perfect. Same airhorn size as YF, can use factory filter housing. Very efficient metering. This carb on a 307SBC got 20 mpg.
 

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I say more tq w/huge 1v; more HP w/the 2v. Dont know ur app.
I havea '85 4 eyes (LTD wagon) & 70 Bronco. Each takes some-
thing quite different.
On that motor I'd say take everything above the deck (esp if
personally going auto trans). Some even take the "football" exh
manny. Even the lift-eyes can B sold and U need 2 remove the
rear 1 for transmis/carb links.
And now I've said tooo much
8^ )
 
I say more tq w/huge 1v; more HP w/the 2v. Dont know ur app.
I havea '85 4 eyes (LTD wagon) & 70 Bronco. Each takes some-
thing quite different.
On that motor I'd say take everything above the deck (esp if
personally going auto trans). Some even take the "football" exh
manny. Even the lift-eyes can B sold and U need 2 remove the
rear 1 for transmis/carb links.
And now I've said tooo much
8^ )
If I have time i'll head back to the yard and get the stuff.

I didn't know the manifold was a desirable item.

My 83 Marquis is complete and running.

I was thinking not to take everything in case someone local needed stuff, but I may be the only one in the area running a 200.

My car is a c5 automatic for now, consumes quite a bit of transmission fluid.

Does the high mount block have easier provisions for installing a manual?

I know the t5 bellhousing would have to be altered to bolt to my low mount block.
 
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