Autolite 1100 rebuild questions?

[LameHoof65]

I don't know why, bored I guess. Came home tore it apart and found I couldn't or maybe shouldn't break this carb all the way down for cleaning and rebuild? I did the same as I did with the HW5200, broke down into mechanisms then labeled and bagged them. I only got 2 check balls out of it the third is in the bowl with the float and has the spring and check ball in it---I tried releasing the spring and taking it out but it did not want to come out---so before I damaged it I just left it in there. The spring and the L shaped bar that holds in the check ball does not move very freely and hangs up if you hold it in its positioned and upright plane as it would sit on the manifold...is it suppose to be that difficult to close and what exactly is it. I took out the needle valve, main jet, brass float and pin, the accelerator pump and diaphragm with spring, the auto choke, spring and all the levers and linkages and the acuating mechanisms and springs to the throttle plate. I left the throttle plate and choke plate mechanisms and armature in place. Looks like the venturi is removable but I didn't mess with it. Is there anything else to tear down, open up or otherwise free up for cleaning purposes on this carb? Now this is the autolite 1100 with the SCV and I know there is an older version and a later version.....so when I go to buy the rebuild kit how will I know which I need? The only number I see is a 5 on the venturi/throttle casing with a tag on the top casing/retainer bolt that says REBUILT....

 

[Mercury Mike]

Look for a part number on the carburetor... Call the parts store and let them know and they will get you the right one.

 

[simon]

Is there anything else to tear down, open up or otherwise free up for cleaning purposes on this carb? Now this is the autolite 1100 with the SCV and I know there is an older version and a later version.....so when I go to buy the rebuild kit how will I know which I need? The only number I see is a 5 on the venturi/throttle casing with a tag on the top casing/retainer bolt that says REBUILT....

Seems like your original ID tag was removed when the carb was rebuilt by a shop the first time.
needle valves are different on early and later models, like on 1100 and 1101. The major brand kits usually carry both types of needles.
all kits usually come with a new spark control valve, regardless if the carb was equipped with one or not.

the venturi tube was not designed to be removed.
It is possible however, like anything ever constructed by man can be rebuilt one way or the other. the venturi tube insert most likely will break upon removal of the brass SCV orifice.

Also, the vacuume-sensitive piston assembly that meters off-idle mixture should not be taken apart. Usually, soaking in fresh gas, carb cleaner or diesel overnight, then WD40 and blowing out with compressed air will take care of most of the varnish that might have built up.

Make sure all mating surfaces are straight, otherwise you may have serious vacuume leaks (carb top and mounting flange) or gas leaks (accelerator pumps and dec. dashpod on auto trans versions). Clean all passages, paying attention to the small orifices that might be blocked by some foreign obstacles or crud. A short piece of welding wire works great for me when freeing up blocked acc.pump squirters and the like (not for the ham fisted).

 

[fordconvert]

When I did mine I went to Napa's website and looked at the pictures of the gaskets. IIRC the description was not right so I went by the picture and got the right one. Part number on the box for mine is 2-5579.

 

[powerband]

Good question. I rebuilt the 1100 on the '63 and the "power valve/economizer" was needing attention. I was tempted to remove the plug on top of the casting to access it but the 'rebuild kit" had specific directions to NOT DISASSEMBLE" - What's the deal...

Anyone have any luck or expertise with Holley 1904"s??

 

[LameHoof65]

Okay, I know you guys probably know about this site....but in case you don't:

http://www.tocmp.com

I found it today---very cool site has a complete teardown and rebuild of the autolite 1100---F1100. I haven't had a chance to look at all of it but from what I can tell it is a very good breakdown of what to do and what not to do. It also has some complete manuals of the 2300, 4160 holley carbs. You can download 'em and print 'em out. Once you get to the site just go to the Carburetor Doctor down on the left hand column. I have seen this site before somewhere, but just now realized how good it is.

Powerband, it may have the answer to all our questions----I hope, anyway! I think there is even a good deal of info on the holley 1904.

 

[simon]

I was tempted to remove the plug on top of the casting to access it but the 'rebuild kit" had specific directions to NOT DISASSEMBLE" - What's the deal...

I did it, once.

carb top was warped and corroded beyond repair, so I thought "the heck with it" and drilled and pried out the aluminum plug. underneath I found a vacuum-controlled piston assembly, very much like the piston in autolite hot-air choke assemblies. since the piston and its bore have very tight tolerances, varnish buildup and corrosion can cause severe problems there - hence my advice of repeated soaking in diesel and WD40.

 

[LameHoof65]

Hey, there wasn't any scv valve in the compartment that holds it? I don't know what it looks like really but shouldn't a valve of some sort fallen out when I took the vent off of it? I see a brass lookin'plunger in the cap itself but it doesn't seem to come out, it appears to be spring activated for venting. This may have been why I could never get this thing past 70 on the highway......

 

[Mercury Mike]

The SCV is on the outside of the carb. It's got a head on it that fits a 1" wrench. I'll take a picture of mine tomorrow.

 

[LameHoof65]

Yes, I took the 1" cap off and the only thing that was inside was the brass piece looks like a vent valve in the cap itself. But looking at the picture on Jacks sticky there appears to be a valve of some kind inside of it. I read on down a bit more in the text that others wrote and the '68 and later carbs didn't have a SCV in them.....is this what I have? Or is that little brass vent valve all there is too it? The info I have on this carb shows that cap as housing the power valve and to open it up and discard the valve before cleaning. Of course it shows the power valve assembly with the checkball in it as inside the bowl of the carb extending downward from the upper retainer......I am assuming that mine does not actually have the SCV in it and I have the old load-o-matic that does not have the weighted centrifugal advance to go along with the springs....and according to how I am reading Jacks sticky above....that is a problem.

ps.

I'm not sure but now I found a diagram that does call that little valve in the cap the "spark control valve". So maybe I do have the earlier carb and the right "load-o-matic".......

 

[Mercury Mike]

The 1" cap is the valve, for what I know.

 

[LameHoof65]

Yea, I am sure you are right....but it is still confusing to me.