All Small Six Autolite 1100 - tube from manifold to choke

This relates to all small sixes
shreqshack

shreqshack

Well-known member
I am working on my carburetor (autolite 1100) on my 1965 Mustang. I noticed that the tube (heat riser?) from the manual to choke to the manifold had rusted off and is no longer connected? What's the best way to go about fixing this? Is this a "heat riser tube"? I am a novice...so I am not sure what my options are for repairing this.
Thanks for your help!!! :)
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Yes, that's your heat riser tube. I haven't needed to replace one in a stock manifold though, I replaced mine with a longer unit i strapped to my aftermarket header. I believe it pokes through into a hole in the manifold. that hole may be blocked by the rusted remains of the old tube. I'm unsure of the best way to clear it an replace it.
 
frozenrabbit said:
I run my manual choke 1100 without it. My '63 carb doesn't have the bake-o-lite cap on the choke assembly..
Click to expand...
It sounds like you don't notice any difference running the car without the tube connected? Is that right? Why does the choke need heat?
 
No, I do run it with the tube. in a stock manifold, the tube goes through the middle of it, and out the bottom. as the tube is heated by the exhaust/exhaust manifold, the hot air within the tube rises and heats the spring in the choke housing. as the temp changes, the springs pressure on the choke butterfly lever changes, and it opens the choke.

Because I have an aftermarket header, it has no provision for the tube to go inside, so i just strap it to the outside of one of the exhaust runners. It still heats up, and sends the hot air up to the choke module on the carb.

Other ways to do it are with hot water, electric, or manual chokes. I have a manual on my 73 Bronco now, and I dislike it, going electric. My mustang is still hot air.
 
You do need to have the choke stove pipe hooked up in order for an auto choke to work correctly this also includes the Ford type Electric Chokes that were used in the mid 1970's and up. The Weber carb's don't need it with their stand alone electric chokes. It was common for the stove pipe to break off there at the exhaust manifold you might be able to find a good used one or a NOS one but it's not as easy now. If you can get the broken piece out (it goes in about 1/4 to 3/8 inch) of the manafold without damageing it to much it might be able to be welded back together again.

There is a simple and inexpensive way to get the Auto Choke working again with one of the Dorman - Help Choke Stove Repair Kit's it gives you all the parts nessisary and is easy to install. Only drawback is its not factory looking if that's imprortant to you. Best of luck

 
shreqshack said:
It sounds like you don't notice any difference running the car without the tube connected? Is that right? Why does the choke need heat?
Click to expand...
Mine is just a fully manual choke, no choke spring, or housing, no riser tube. Never had any issues running or starting in freezing temps. Few different choke setups over different years, and maybe auto/manual trans options.
 
bubba22349 said:
You do need to have the choke stove pipe hooked up in order for an auto choke to work correctly this also includes the Ford type Electric Chokes that were used in the mid 1970's and up. The Weber carb's don't need it with their stand alone electric chokes. It was common for the stove pipe to break off there at the exhaust manifold you might be able to find a good used one or a NOS one but it's not as easy now. If you can get the broken piece out (it goes in about 1/4 to 3/8 inch) of the manafold without damageing it to much it might be able to be welded back together again. There is a simple and inexpensive way to get the Auto Choke working again with one of the Dorman - Help Choke Stove Repair Kit's it gives you all the parts nessisary and is easy to install. Only drawback is its not factory looking if that's imprortant to you. Best of luck
Click to expand...
bubba22349 said:
You do need to have the choke stove pipe hooked up in order for an auto choke to work correctly this also includes the Ford type Electric Chokes that were used in the mid 1970's and up. The Weber carb's don't need it with their stand alone electric chokes. It was common for the stove pipe to break off there at the exhaust manifold you might be able to find a good used one or a NOS one but it's not as easy now. If you can get the broken piece out (it goes in about 1/4 to 3/8 inch) of the manafold without damageing it to much it might be able to be welded back together again. There is a simple and inexpensive way to get the Auto Choke working again with one of the Dorman - Help Choke Stove Repair Kit's it gives you all the parts nessisary and is easy to install. Only drawback is its not factory looking if that's imprortant to you. Best of luck
Click to expand...
bubba22349 said:
You do need to have the choke stove pipe hooked up in order for an auto choke to work correctly this also includes the Ford type Electric Chokes that were used in the mid 1970's and up. The Weber carb's don't need it with their stand alone electric chokes. It was common for the stove pipe to break off there at the exhaust manifold you might be able to find a good used one or a NOS one but it's not as easy now. If you can get the broken piece out (it goes in about 1/4 to 3/8 inch) of the manafold without damageing it to much it might be able to be welded back together again. There is a simple and inexpensive way to get the Auto Choke working again with one of the Dorman - Help Choke Stove Repair Kit's it gives you all the parts nessisary and is easy to install. Only drawback is its not factory looking if that's imprortant to you. Best of luck
Click to expand...
 
If you pull apart the auto choke there is a minute hole that connects to the manifold vacuum via drillings in carb base. It constantly draws the hot air thru the bimetalic spring so it unwinds and closes the choke. If any of that is blocked choke wont work ..properly
 
If you pull apart the auto choke there is a minute hole that connects to the manifold vacuum via drillings in carb base. It constantly draws the hot air thru the heat tube and past the bimetalic spring so it unwinds and opens the choke.

If any of that is blocked, choke wont work
 
Last edited:
No you sure wouldnt even have a hot air stove pipe with any of the factory Autolite manual choke linkages. To the best of my knowadge Mustangs never come with a manual choke option, so after you stated above that yours is manual choke I took another look at your above picture and this time enlarged it. I do now see tha your Autolite 1100 has one of the aftermarket manual choke kits installed, sorry about steering you in the compleately wrong direction before in my above posts, I sure missed that manual linkage in your first picture until just now. So X2 then you probally would be better to cap off the hot air stove fitting in the carb's old auto choke housing so there's not a vacuum leak there as Gb500 mentioned in his post. There is a cap made in Brass and I think another material that has the right tubing threads available at most good hardware stores and maybe some of the auto parts stores. You could even make your own out of your old hot air stove pipe parts by just crimping over the end of the tube near the bottom of the fitting or making a flat disk to fit in the bottom of the stove pipe fitting after removing the old tube then also use some RTV to seal it off. Another side view or 3/4 Picture shot might of better shown that choke linkage kit for those of us like me that are a bit blind LOL 😂. Best of luck
 
bubba22349 said:
No you sure wouldnt even have a hot air stove pipe with any of the factory Autolite manual choke linkages. To the best of my knowadge Mustangs never come with a manual choke option, so after you stated above that yours is manual choke I took another look at your above picture and this time enlarged it. I do now see tha your Autolite 1100 has one of the aftermarket manual choke kits installed, sorry about steering you in the compleately wrong direction before in my above posts, I sure missed that manual linkage in your first picture until just now. So X2 then you probally would be better to cap off the hot air stove fitting in the carb's old auto choke housing so there's not a vacuum leak there as Gb500 mentioned in his post. There is a cap made in Brass and I think another material that has the right tubing threads available at most good hardware stores and maybe some of the auto parts stores. You could even make your own out of your old hot air stove pipe parts by just crimping over the end of the tube near the bottom of the fitting or making a flat disk to fit in the bottom of the stove pipe fitting after removing the old tube then also use some RTV to seal it off. Another side view or 3/4 Picture shot might of better shown that choke linkage kit for those of us like me that are a bit blind Lol. Best of luck
Click to expand...
Thanks so much Bubba!! I wouldn’t have been able to figure this out on my own. Sorry about the picture. Will try to post better pictures next time. Thanks again!
 
Your picture was a very good one and i think site member Frozenrabbit that responded above had probably seen that manual choke linkage kit long before me. I looked at the picture and was only focused in on the auto choke housing and the hot air stove pipe parts then completely missed that aftermarket manual choke linkage kit. Yes in any case i am glad we were all able to help you with your carb.
 
lots ta learn, a bad day in the garage is the 1 in which I did not learn (& me mates hear lota cursin).

Many times is difficult to even know what / how to ask the question. the Handbook
www.vintageinlines.com

The Ford Falcon SIX Cylinder PERFORMANCE HANDBOOK | Vintage Inlines

The Ford Falcon SIX Cylinder Performance Handbook has 107 pages of History, Facts, and Information to help you get more power out of your small Ford SIX. This engine was used in Falcons, Mustangs, Fairlaines, and Comets in the 60’s. It was the FoMoCo workhorse in Mavericks, Granadas, and...
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and
showed me those Qs/answrs...
 
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