mustangjon83
New member
Has anyone done an autolite 2100 conversion for the stock ford 200? I’m running way to rich and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on jet sizes???? 
Autolite 2100 conversion jets
- Thread starter mustangjon83
- Start date
nickstewartroc
Well-known member
I did! Which one are you using (1.01/1.02/1.08/1.14/1.21) ?
I'm using the 1.08 and have 53's in mine
-Nick
I'm using the 1.08 and have 53's in mine
-Nick
mustangjon83
New member
It's A 1.02 And Has #46 Jets IN it
Jetting Down a carb is usually WRONG , a 250 cfm carb will flow 250 with the jets plugged , BUT it will be all air , when installing a larger cfm carb on a smaller than OEM application you usually need to jet UP , I suspect the Power-valve is blown , or the vacuum signal is so low its open too early ,get a vacuum gauge and take a reading at Idle , and in gear ( if its an automatic ) then take the carb off , without letting it get disturbed / turned much , take the 4 screws out of the power-valve cover and see if any gas comes out ( it shouldn't )
Before you start calibrating a carburetor your distributor need to be set up for your engine combo. See announcements for this service I offer.
With a stock engine I would install a 7.5-8.5 new power valve to bring in the power circuit to eliminate a lean hole in the fuel curve.
After that you need to road test with an innovate A/F tester & get a 14.5 area cruise ratio.
Then you need to make a full throttle run & see what your A/F ratio is.
If its not in the 12.8-13.1 area the correct way is install removable jets in the power circuit area. With a holley you can modify the stock metering block with adjustable jets under the power valve. The same applies to the autolite carb.
Stock they come with a fixed orifice. To do it right screw in jets needs to be installed to get the correct WOT A/F fuel ratio.
The wrong way is to start changing the main jet. Since you already have the cruising ratio set why would you now change the main jet.
If you are not following this you need to send the carb to a professional to install jets below the power valve.
Every engine combination is different.
I,ll be glad to install removable jets for $75.00 plus parts. However you still have to fine tune this circuit.
After you get both circuits dialed in then you can change the main jet for temperature changes.
Doing this you then affect both ratios for a correct combination.
With a stock engine I would install a 7.5-8.5 new power valve to bring in the power circuit to eliminate a lean hole in the fuel curve.
After that you need to road test with an innovate A/F tester & get a 14.5 area cruise ratio.
Then you need to make a full throttle run & see what your A/F ratio is.
If its not in the 12.8-13.1 area the correct way is install removable jets in the power circuit area. With a holley you can modify the stock metering block with adjustable jets under the power valve. The same applies to the autolite carb.
Stock they come with a fixed orifice. To do it right screw in jets needs to be installed to get the correct WOT A/F fuel ratio.
The wrong way is to start changing the main jet. Since you already have the cruising ratio set why would you now change the main jet.
If you are not following this you need to send the carb to a professional to install jets below the power valve.
Every engine combination is different.
I,ll be glad to install removable jets for $75.00 plus parts. However you still have to fine tune this circuit.
After you get both circuits dialed in then you can change the main jet for temperature changes.
Doing this you then affect both ratios for a correct combination.
mustangjon83
New member
I have checked the float level and it is working properly. I put a vacuum gage on the manifold and it is reading 21 at idle. I have the dizzy advanced to about 13. I have recently replaced the head gasket and installed at late model large log head that has been decked. After running for about 10 min it starts smoking out of the tail pipe. It’s not burning coolant or burning oil. There is a local hot rod shop in my area maybe I’ll take it there to have it tuned. I’ve had some work done there before and the owner only charges me a bottle of brandy.
My money is on the Powervalve , being bad
mustangjon83
New member
I Took The PowerValve OfF. Looks Brand New, No SignS Of Leaking Or Ripped Rubber. Cleaned It Up And Put it Back In. Still DoingThe Same Thing.
Howdy Jon:
Welcome to The FORUM! A couple of questions first, if you don't mind- What distributor are you using? is this an auto trans car? What year? I could assume by your photo, but it's best no to assume anything. What is your new Compression Ratio (CR)?
Based on the information you've given us so far, I doubt that a jet change will solve anything. Keep it coming.
Adios, David
Welcome to The FORUM! A couple of questions first, if you don't mind- What distributor are you using? is this an auto trans car? What year? I could assume by your photo, but it's best no to assume anything. What is your new Compression Ratio (CR)?
Based on the information you've given us so far, I doubt that a jet change will solve anything. Keep it coming.
Adios, David
what color is the smoke , if its black , its obviously fuel , try looking down the carb and see if you see any drips from out of the boosters ( after the 10 min you described ) hook up your Vac gauge and check fuel pressure if its dripping , also the Black floats do go bad ( soak up gas and partially sink ) acts like too high a float level , As said above keep the observations coming , we can figure it out , given enough time and info
See viewtopic.php?f=1&t=68684&p=529556#p529556
I'd say you have the wrong base jet, it should be 42F, not 46.That's Four sizes too big.
There are, for example, the later 43F jets, or its interchange is an 47H jet, the H are the common Holley, the post 1964 are F jets. You need to use the right kind, so you can calibrate it easily. Going to old Holley jets requires you to performan some surgery.For some swaps, you can ....
That is an example of the size variation between cheaper Holley jets and the Autolite/Motorcraft F jets.
Once the float has been set up right, and the base throttle blades have been open slightly to set the idle speed, you can use Holley 2300/4150/4160/4165/4175 power valves, which aren't just one size fits all 8.5"Hg like the Motorcraft/Autolite 2-bbl power valve is.
The power valve channel restrictions (PVCR's) can be taken down using the kit wsaiii gets from his approved supplier. You don't need the amount of enrichment that you do on a V8, and running the stock size PVCR's will result in too much fuel from an opne road cruise to a sharp throttle stab.
The jet interchange would normally be the last to work with, if it was a stock 42 Fomoco jet. But 46 in FoMoCo jetting is very big, and it should be returned back to the 1.02 stock size.
Then FSD is right. Less vac, less signal, but its now on a car with a shorter diff ratio and quick reving I6, not a higher geared slower reving small block, so your probably gonna need more jet, not less, and most of the best calibration will come with the power valve. You can even use a two stage power valve.
I'd say you have the wrong base jet, it should be 42F, not 46.That's Four sizes too big.
There are, for example, the later 43F jets, or its interchange is an 47H jet, the H are the common Holley, the post 1964 are F jets. You need to use the right kind, so you can calibrate it easily. Going to old Holley jets requires you to performan some surgery.For some swaps, you can ....
That is an example of the size variation between cheaper Holley jets and the Autolite/Motorcraft F jets.
Once the float has been set up right, and the base throttle blades have been open slightly to set the idle speed, you can use Holley 2300/4150/4160/4165/4175 power valves, which aren't just one size fits all 8.5"Hg like the Motorcraft/Autolite 2-bbl power valve is.
The power valve channel restrictions (PVCR's) can be taken down using the kit wsaiii gets from his approved supplier. You don't need the amount of enrichment that you do on a V8, and running the stock size PVCR's will result in too much fuel from an opne road cruise to a sharp throttle stab.
The jet interchange would normally be the last to work with, if it was a stock 42 Fomoco jet. But 46 in FoMoCo jetting is very big, and it should be returned back to the 1.02 stock size.
Then FSD is right. Less vac, less signal, but its now on a car with a shorter diff ratio and quick reving I6, not a higher geared slower reving small block, so your probably gonna need more jet, not less, and most of the best calibration will come with the power valve. You can even use a two stage power valve.
mustangjon83
New member
Its a 3 speed manual. Right now it has the stock dizzy with the pertronix ignition and coil upgrade. I'm not sure Compression Ratio is yet, I'll will have to try and find a gauge. I think you can rent them for the local autoparts store. It looks to be a darker smoke but not blue. It doesnt look to be leaking from the boosters, when you have the air cleaner off you can see is squirting then stop after reving it. And the carb has a brass float which i have already dunked tested for leaks.
Dumb Question , you have adjusted the Idle air mixture right ? and if so can you kill the motor by turning them in all the way
Howdy Back:
X may have hit on something. The 1.02 carbs were used from 1958 to 1962 on 332 FE V8s and 292 Y V8s. Also from 1962 - - '64 on 260 V8s. The jetting and internal calibrations on the carbs used on the big (at that time) V8 would be richer than on the smaller 260s. Does you carb have an ID code stamped on the side of the mounting plate, front toe. If the carb is post 1960 it should have a two digit code stamped there. For example C2. in that case the carb would be a 1962 version. IF it has a third digit, it would indicate vehicle usage. T = truck, Z = Mustang, D = Falcon, and many others. If your 1.02 was designed for a 332 V8 to be used in a truck, it may well be too rich for your application.
Also, Next time you have it apart check the stamping on the main jets. After the number you may see an "F" for Ford type jets. Pre 1960 Autolite carbs use Holley jets. After, Ford aka Autolite jets.
Did the power valve have any code stamped on it? Color?
You said stock distributor, but you didn't say what year. Also where was this carb produced. IF it was produced for California it will have an emissions specific distributor. Also, I don't recall you saying, is this carb mounted via an adapter or on a modified log?
Keep the information coming.
adios, David
X may have hit on something. The 1.02 carbs were used from 1958 to 1962 on 332 FE V8s and 292 Y V8s. Also from 1962 - - '64 on 260 V8s. The jetting and internal calibrations on the carbs used on the big (at that time) V8 would be richer than on the smaller 260s. Does you carb have an ID code stamped on the side of the mounting plate, front toe. If the carb is post 1960 it should have a two digit code stamped there. For example C2. in that case the carb would be a 1962 version. IF it has a third digit, it would indicate vehicle usage. T = truck, Z = Mustang, D = Falcon, and many others. If your 1.02 was designed for a 332 V8 to be used in a truck, it may well be too rich for your application.
Also, Next time you have it apart check the stamping on the main jets. After the number you may see an "F" for Ford type jets. Pre 1960 Autolite carbs use Holley jets. After, Ford aka Autolite jets.
Did the power valve have any code stamped on it? Color?
You said stock distributor, but you didn't say what year. Also where was this carb produced. IF it was produced for California it will have an emissions specific distributor. Also, I don't recall you saying, is this carb mounted via an adapter or on a modified log?
Keep the information coming.
adios, David
mustangjon83
New member
The Carb code is C1AE-Z, 1961-1963. The jets just said 46, they didnt have a letter after the number. I have it bolted on to a 2bbl to 1bbl adaptor. The power valve didnt have anything stamped on it or any type of color code. It's a 1968 and did have the smog pump on it but was removed.
Howdy Back:
That's very interesting. The "A" in the code indicates a Galaxie usage. Since the Galaxie is a heavier car, it is probably richer in internal setting. Next compare the main jets to both Holley and Autolite jets to determine which you have. Since it is a '61 I'm guessing that they are Holley type. That will be important if you decide to use a smaller main jet. Holley jets are also cheaper and more readily available.
The distributor from '68 will have both mechanical, centrifugal advance and vacuum advance actuated from a ported source on the carb, which your '61 carb will have. Make sure that the vacuum line is connected to a ported vacuum source rather than a manifold vacuum source. Also, since the smog pump has been removed, leave the inner or vacuum retard nipple on the vacuum canister disconnected and left open.
Autolite only built about three PVs with High vacuum, low vacuum and in between. They frequently did not mark them. You may want to install a Holley PV. They are marked according to vacuum pressure. When the vacuum drops below the marked point the PV opens and the PVCR enrichens according to a built in channel restriction. The PV only opens when vacuum pressure drops below the mark.
This is more information, but it doesn't solve your problem. Sorry.
Adios, David
That's very interesting. The "A" in the code indicates a Galaxie usage. Since the Galaxie is a heavier car, it is probably richer in internal setting. Next compare the main jets to both Holley and Autolite jets to determine which you have. Since it is a '61 I'm guessing that they are Holley type. That will be important if you decide to use a smaller main jet. Holley jets are also cheaper and more readily available.
The distributor from '68 will have both mechanical, centrifugal advance and vacuum advance actuated from a ported source on the carb, which your '61 carb will have. Make sure that the vacuum line is connected to a ported vacuum source rather than a manifold vacuum source. Also, since the smog pump has been removed, leave the inner or vacuum retard nipple on the vacuum canister disconnected and left open.
Autolite only built about three PVs with High vacuum, low vacuum and in between. They frequently did not mark them. You may want to install a Holley PV. They are marked according to vacuum pressure. When the vacuum drops below the marked point the PV opens and the PVCR enrichens according to a built in channel restriction. The PV only opens when vacuum pressure drops below the mark.
This is more information, but it doesn't solve your problem. Sorry.
Adios, David
