Best lubricant for sticking breaker plate?

[Anonymous]

Greetings! I hope that a Merry Christmas was had by all!

I've got a couple of problems I'm trying to rund down on my 200 ('66 Mustang, load-o-matic dist. w/matching Autolite 1100 carb... running a Pertronix 1).

I know that I'm not getting enough vacuum (as evidenced by a split flare at the vac diaphragm and a loose hose at the carb)... but I've also got a breaker plate that, instead of snapping back when rotated, slowly meanders back into place, and sometimes needs a little push to get there. I'm not entirely clear from the shop manual as to how to get the breaker plate out for lubrication (but I think I can work my way through it).

That being said, my question is twofold:

1) what is best to use to clean the breaker plate assembly, and
2) what lubricant is best to use?

Thank you for your time, folks.

A Happy New Year to you all!

 

[CoupeBoy]

I love cleaning many parts with Brake Parts Cleaner, chlorinated, non-chlorinated doesnt matter (to me anyhow) electronic parts cleaner works well for some items also as its supposed to have some sort of sealer/lube in it. As for relubricating it, if it were mine I dont think I would. It's not a high friction area but any lubricant on those plates will catch and hold particles from the rotor/cap wearing out and eventually get sticky..

-ron

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Ben:

First and foremost, make sure the vacuum system is tight and operating as designed.

The breaker plate does not need to be remove to lube the shaft/plate pivot. It appeared to me that the shaft needs to be removed from the body, out the top to remove the breaker plate. If the shaft and/or plate is worn to the point of wobble you will be better of to replace the whole distributor- which gets you a new vacuum cannister too.

Next, clean the area thoroughly; The post that the plate pivots on, the pivot bushing and the general area. Deburr any roughness that might impede free movement of the plate and/or parts. A very light oil, like 3 in 1, is good to use on the center shaft and bushing. Work slowly, making sure the oil penetrates between the shaft and the bushing. Wipe up any excess oil. If the oil seeps down the shaft, that is no problem, but leave no wetness anywhere inside the distributor. This is the area that is almost always the cause of a lazy advance plate on a L-o-M distributor. Do this first before the next step.

Once the pivot bushing is free, check the springs for tension. They will lose tension over time and heat cycling. There should be a heavy spring and a lighter one. There is a wear slot on each springs post protruding through the advance plate which can be turned to increase spring tension. These posts are frequently sticky or stuck. Be carful to not use so much force you break one off. Do not mix up the position of the light and heavy spring as they have seperate functions. I do not know specs on the springs, or replacements. I have a cannister of spare springs and I mix and match until I get the results I want. You will not need to lube the springs or the post, but keep them clean and dry.

Keep us posted on your results.

Happy New Year!

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Well, I re-worked the hard vacuum line fittings at the carb and dist... getting good vac pressure now. I have gotten the breaker plate bushing oiled/freed up and the real problem has shown itself. Both springs are shot. When I move the breaker plate, it goes back into position save the last 1/8 inch (or so). If I move the plate back the rest of the way, both springs go slack... so much so that they can jiggle on the post. I can see where the heavier spring is stretched at one end.

So, where can i get replacement springs (NPD doesn't seem to carry them, nor does VA classic mustangs)?

Thanks again for your help!

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back Ben:

I do not know of a source for new OEM Load-O-Matic springs. I've got a collection gleaned from old distributors and an assortment from recurve kits. Recurve kits from DelcoRemy seem to be more commonly found at Autozone type stores, but it really doesn't matter so long as the springs are the right size (Length and tension) for the job.

Did you take a good look at the spring posts for wear and/or bend? Did you try twisting the posts that come up through the advance plate to add tension?

keep us posted on your progress.

Adios, David