Best procedure for sealing oil pan?

LameHoof65

Famous Member
I have touched on this topic before and got good information regarding gaskets and sealants. What I need now is input on whether there is a specific stepwise method of putting all the seals and gaskets on that would minimize the liklihood of leaks? In my case I have the timing cover and the oil pan off. I have replaced the rear main seal but the bottom of the crank cover has a place for a rubber gasket and I am sure the rear area has a place for one as well---I haven't really looked at that yet. I also know that around the corners of the crank there must be some overlapping method to ensure a good seal, but not sure how to go about it.
 
Ive done this so many times I should be an expert, but I still am not. This is just my experience.

In the rubber seals that push into the timing cover and rear main, there are small indentations on each side that fit to the cork gasket. The gasket will fit right in there, and it helps keep the gasket in line.

Anyway, i believe you have to attach the cork first. Get some type of high-temp gasket maker, I believe I used RTV red or black. If the engine is still in the car, this is a little tough, but put a bead of gasket sealer on the block side. I put 1 bead, and around the bolt holes I surrounded them with a circle of sealant. Then I waited a few minutes, however many it recommends on the package for the sealant to get tacky, then attached the cork seal. I did one side at a time, it seemed to be easier since i didnt have to worry about one side drying on me while I was working on the other. Repeat with the other side.

Put a bead of sealer in the main and timing chain cover indentations for the rubber seals, then just push the seals in, making sure to get the tabs lined up with the cork.

Then put a bead of sealer around the oil pan, using the same method as before. Don't put too much, you dont want it squishing out inside your engine.

Attach the pan using a diagonal tightening method. USE A TORQUE WRENCH!! I did this 4 times and could never figure out why mine wasnt working, but now I realize it was because I tightened the cork/sealant out of the gap.

I guess the 5th time is a charm, haven't had it leak yet. Its a somewhat tedious job, but take your time, and do it right to prevent having to do it again.

Good luck, its a horrible feeling when you get done replacing the gasket then find more oil on the driveway than before you replaced it.
 
now if we could get mike to have some company start making 1 piece pan gaskets with the steel spacers in them....or a nice AL one with just a groove for some RTV to be put on it.
 
ihavea68stang":1lmhyc8e said:
USE A TORQUE WRENCH!!

Ok, but how much torque do I need to make it work?

(66 mustang I6 200ci)

The rest of your instructions seem great! Thanks!
 
My 65 shop manual lists the following:

Oil pump to cylinder block:

170---200.................................12-15ft.lbs.

Cylinder Front Cover:

170---200..................................7-9ft.lbs.

Water outlet housing:

170---200.................................12-15ft.lbs.

Camshaft Thrustplate to Cylinder Block:

170---200.................................12-15ft.lbs.

Water pump to cylinder block:

170---200.................................12-15ft.lbs.

Camshaft sprocket to camshaft:

170---200.................................35-45ft.lbs.

Damper/Pulley to crankshaft:

170---200..................................85-100ft.lbs.

Valve Rocker Arm cover:

170---200..................................3-5ft.lbs.

Oil Pan to Cylinder block:

170---200..................................7-9ft.lbs.

I wouldn't put my faith in any one manual, but the Fordsix Performance Handbook matches most of these and has a few more torque specs for the '78 through 83 200ci engine. You need to have one of the Scheljdahls
books....you can get it on the the FSPP site I believe. http://cquesttechnologies.com/fspp/prod ... SP-200-FSH

I always mispell their name---even when I am looking right at it on the cover!! S c h j e l d a h l or just David and Dennis. :oops:
 
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