broken manifold studs... need advice.

[Anonymous]

ok, feel free to laugh.
Here is what I went and "done"…

I was just going to replace the manifold gasket… I swear!

Anyway, I broke off the two exhaust manifold studs on my 250. It has a huge emissions manifold from the late '70's and the studs are long because the log is so thick.
The remaining studs are plenty long for a header but it appears that the only one that I can find for a low starter 250 has a 2-3 week backorder. (having a new toy down for 3 weeks waiting for parts aint no fun.) from the pictures I have seen, I think they are also long enough to use the original style from a '65 200 but the car has a 2" exhaust that I do not want to loose. I have seen that '68-70 non-emission manifolds have a 2" outlet but have seen no good pictures to see if the bolt flange surface is thin like the '65 or thicker.
I would rather spend what little money I have for this on a header or manifold that will work now than take the freaking head off and take it to a machine shop.

Anybody got words of wisdom?
Pictures or measurements of the '68-'70 manifold mounting flanges?


BTW... the wife is already upset we can't drive it now!!!

 

[mjpchief]

Are they broke off flush with the head surface or are they sticking out enough to get hold of?

 

[Anonymous]

they are sticking out about 1.5" (guess)

enough that I put 2 nuts on them and locked them together and tried to back them out... i stopped 'cause they aint budging.
I thought it would be better to have 2 short studs than have 2 broken off even with the head.

 

[jahearne]

Squirt them with WD40 and tap on them with a hammer. Hopefully, that will be enough to work them loose. Maybe let them soak for a bit.

I agree with you - better to have two shorties than busted off in the block.

 

[lyonsy]

hey
squirt them about 1once every hour for a day or so to make sure it really gets in there.
then do the 2 nuts thing again but as tight as you can get them down at the head that way you have much less chance of bracking them and give them a good wack with a hammer.
if that dont work you will have to drill them out and re tap them.
go the headers and just have them joined up where the engine pipe finshes.
drift

 

[mjpchief]

Take a torch and heat the stud until it is cherry red. let it cool back to room temp while spraying it with a good penetrating spray(WD-40). When it has cooled to room temp. and only then, clamp a pair of vice grips on it and slowly try to back it out. You may have to work it back and forth a few times but it will probably come out without damaging the threads in the head. Make sure you heat it next to the head, not just out on the end. This will release the threads in the head when the stud cools back down.

 

[Anonymous]

THANKS ALL!

i have heated them (not cherry), wrapped them with a hammer while trying to back them out, used Kroil and WD-40 and I am to the point of thinking "if i try any more, they are gonna break."

if anybody knows the flange thickness of the 68-70 manifold it would really help... even just a picture so i can tell if it is way too thick for the remaining studs.

if anybody knows where i can get a set of headers ASAP, that would help too.

i emailed FSPP and theirs wont fit. (they are modifying at a later date)
i emailed clifford (30 day min. wait)

Thanks again!

 

[hasa68mustang]

so was that a thanks all you got it orrrr? you would definately have to get it cherry h/ot for it to expandcontract enough for it to get loose

 

[Anonymous]

so was that a thanks all you got it orrrr?

sorry. thanks for all the input.

I should have posted this as "i broke the manifold studs off at about 1.5 inches long. does anyone know if any manifolds with a 2" donut will fit"

but i did get a lot of good info should i decide to risk stud removal.

i still have the problem with the studs.
i would rather find a header/manifold that will work with a 250 and "customized" studs than risk breaking them off in the head.

if anyone has the manifold info I asked about, it would still be very helpful.

 

[powerband]

I've been there done that with the manifold bolts and the only thing I can say is there is only a very slim chance getting them out intact in the car if they are that rusted. I would count on pulling the head if you really need them out. It's almost impossible to work under the LOG intake upside down and they most likely need all the tricks mentioned an possibly drilling out or other solution.

Anyway, here's apicture of various manifolds:
TOP one is a C9 casting - Middle is C6 casting - Bottom is a D7 casting with the EGR bung. C9 and D7 are the same flange-wise and the C6's are much thinner.

These Hooker headers on my 250 fit the engine and low starter. I believe they were made for Maverick application. They fit the engine but are a tough install in an early '61 roundbody. The other set were on a 170 with a large bell and Toploader in the '61. (Thread = http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... highlight= )

Powerband

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks powerband!

That is what i needed.

The C6 looks like it will work. (middle)
that would be 1966 right?

does the C6 have 2 inch donut out?

do you know what I would look for when buying a repro?
1966 mustang?

 

[powerband]

I need to take another look at that C6 manifold. It looks like it is 2" but has a flat gasket not a donut. It was in a '61 ....


I did take another look at the early manifold. It is a C3xx casting. It has the lighter/thinner bolt castings and a Donut type flange (The PO used a flat gasket to mate up witht he '61's downpipe I guess).

The C9 and D7 (except for the EGR bung) are identical except for the top bolt flange on the #2 port is thick like the centers where the C9 is not.

Powerband 8)