cam and exhaust questions



this is a question for the oz-2v folks. am trying to build up a daily driver once i actually get my head . right now i have a stock short-block waiting to have the head put on. since i have a few weeks before i can actually lay my new oz-2v head on the deck, i plan to do a bit more machine work to the engine whilst i wait for ups to do their thing. i plan on having the rotating mass balanced, and have read posts about swapping the stock rod bolts out with ARP bolts,which is sound thinking in my mind. would hate to yard motor out of car later because of broken rod bolt :x that could have been prevented now. my question is this: should i change the stock cam out since i have an oz-2v head going on? the pistons are slightly dished, 0.060 replacements that were installed when the short-block was built up. i plan on getting hardened valve seats put in and doing some port and polish work. this will be a car i plan on keeping and maintaining, so if there are some readily available valves that can be fitted in the head, can someone please let me know what to tell the machinist to look for? any tips here would help tremendously.
the exhaust question is this: i am getting a pacemaker 6x2 header and am toying with the idea of feeding it into the GT muffler and tail pipes that exit through the rear valence. was looking at getting a partial kit for a stock 65 with the stainless trumpets. i can get all the brackets to make it look like a clean factory install from trumpets to inlet of muffler. my concern is the pipe that crosses from passenger side to drivers side,header to muffler. any routing ideas? and would this factory GT exhaust restrict too much for the engine work i am doing? my goal for this car is to appear stock 8) to the average person who peers under the hood. most folks i deal with are not too "six-savvy" and would most likely not know the difference unless the part was marked "edelcrock" or "offenhoser",the header is the only thing that will scream "non-stock". since i am not going for max "pony power", does this combo seem like a fair working plan? all ideas and input is greatly appreciated. will post pics when i finally start getting stuff going together.

I can only answer part of this.

As for the cam. Yes. To get the most out of your head, exhuast and the improved breathing your new engine will have, I would get a cam and now is the time to do it while the head is off.

If your car is an automatic i would recommend a 260deg or 264deg cam like the one Comp cams or Clifford make. Crane has a new split duration cam IIRC called the Maximizer that I think looks pretty darn sweet.

As for readily available valves? I am checking into using Ford 2.3L OHC valves. Specs are very, very, close and Racer Walsh saells a 1.73" and 1.55" stainless valves for $12 each.
the turbo 2.3L valves are iconal steel...much stronger then SS. also I was thinking of having a six head machined to take better seals.

Howdy Old(Wise)Man:

I enjoyed hearing about your project and plans. I think you are right on!

As for the cam, all that you have described is begging for more cam. To truly take advantage of the improved head and exhaust, plus the balancing, you will need more than a stock cam. This will raise your rpm range though.

What is your compression ratio goal?

AZMike wrote a great little peice on cam options and selection. If you go to the top and click on "FordSix.Com", then click on Tech(?) you should find it.

Be sure to compare the valve stem diameter on replacement valves.


Adios, David
for the CR i have no real goal that i'm shooting for. will see if the head needs to be planed when it gets here. may have about .010 or .015 come off because of the thicker gasket that i'm reading about in the posts here. this is what i have in the gasket set that came from the rebuilder. do plan on CCing the combustion chambers to keep everything clean and even. the gas in this area is not the greatest so i'm not looking to raise the CR too high. but i do want to get the most out of the stock looking exhaust and the stock ford( :roll: ) head without wasting efforts because of wanting to stay with OEM appearances.
the tranny and rear end are the stock 6cyl 4lug setup with the 2.77 3speed gearbox. plan on keeping the rear end, but the tranny will be upgraded. hoping for a 4speed. read somewhere about a gearbox that went right in place after the adapter plate was affixed to bell housing. without needing to slice and dice on the drive shaft. will try to find the post and print it up so I don't forget again. bottom line is that the 2.77 is history as soon as i can see clear to upgrade. wife wants car mobile. so i will have to watch myself. besides i got a brand new clutch kit to wear out that came with the car.
2V heads need very little machining, as they already were made with composite gaskets. I'll be surprised if you even take 10 thou off.

Cheers, Adam.
thanks for the heads up on that issue. will only take some off if it is needed then. :D
I keep thinking of Neil Young when I see "old man"...

As for the valves - check my tech section posting. SR came up with some interesting results. These would flavour cam choice, too.

Have just scored a rock, stock, never-off-the-block 2v/3 speed rig. When I get it home (fortnight), I'll try to document some factory specs on it (CC's, CR, lift, etc). I was dudded on this very engine 2001, and it won't get away a second time. This one's for me. :eek:

Regards, Adam.
i can give you a idee for the exhaust , it is not wat you are looking for , but like you did ask , give some idee.s!
it is a stainles steel home made muffler with doubble exhaust pipes . my idee was also the gt setup . i wil do this in the future , waiting for my headers and 2v ausie head !
also got a stainles firewall plate for the backseat and a alu fuel tank, with 10 more liters fuel then the orginal fuel tank ,
look ad my home page in the section performance / exterior ,,some pic of the exhaust are there
yep, that is not quite what i want to do to my pony. but that does give me an idea for the wifes car! :D i have come to find out that someone put a 250 head on her car prior to us aquiring it. once i get the proper carb on it she(make that "I" :roll: ) should be a bit happier with the performance. she doesn't want to pump a lot of money into it because we have a 1967 that is calling her to the "dark side" with it's 1965 vintage 289 hi-po V8. :eek: that exhaust mod i can do pretty cheap where i work. that way she can look 8) while i fix up her real "keeper" car. ;) thanks for the input. old man
please keep me in mind when you get the numbers figured out. this car i'm not rushing. my wife would like to see it mobile as soon as possible, but she understands that if i rush now it will end up a headache later. right now i do't even know the stock CR of a 2v setup. any numbers you can toss my way later will help.
have been reading up on the cam specs and it looks like the cam i'm leaning toward is the Comp 260. the rpm range and idle look good for my purposes. with a 3spd or 4spd i don't think i will have much trouble from it. or at least i hope i don't anyway! :shock:
oh yes, my wife says that the neil young connection is good, but i look more like a roadie, or a stand in for just about any band member of ZZ Top! :LOL: :LOL: old man
Old man:
I have a Comp 260 cam in my 200 with 2V Aussie head. I originally bought a short block from Jack (Master of all things six), it came with flat pistons from a 2.3 Tempo? block was decked to .010 higher than the piston tops. It has clevite rod and crank bearings. I removed the original rod bolts and installed hi performance bolts. Replaced the existing cam with the 260. Clifford header, MSD ignition with Duraspark distributor,Bosch platinum sparks.
I had the head milled .030 and new valves put in. Ported and polished the head by myself (mostly the intake side, exhaust does not need too much work). A Holley 350 was mounted on the intake. Modified the existing carb linkage to work with the new setup. Connected the whole shebang with the existing C4. Exhaust is one pipe 2.25" diameter thru a flowmaster and out. Later I put in a resonator, because since i am also an old man could not take the noise. Rear end is 2.79:1
With this setup I do not have a heck of a lot of ooomph when taking off, but once it gets going it gets real sweet fast!
thanks rick,
sounds like you have a real sweet road car. 8) am setting mine up to drive around town, but also do well on open road too. have 3.2:1 factory rear end gearing still in it. will see how it fairs once i get car mobile. will look into the deck height. i'm gnawing my knuckle now about going with the full roller rockers with the 1.6 ratio. need to do more homework to make sure i don't create a clearance problem if i decide to use these.
also where did you get the performance rod bolts? :unsure: have looked at ARP site and through npd and mustangs unlimited catalogs and found nothing for our six. would like these jewels in hand before i send the shortblock back to machinist for balancing. old man
The ARP 289-302 V8 rod bolts are what you want, they are a direct swap for the 6 cylinder bolts :D :D

I can get the part number for you if you need it.


Doug is right. The 289 bolts are the ones you want from ARP. I also installed the 1.6 roller rockers, but had to take them out due to some oiling issues. First I wore out the top of the pushrods and then with harder pushrods, the adjusting screws wore out in the rockers.
So i got the rockers out of the car right now and am using the original Aussie set up without problems. There were however no clearance problems.