I was reading the Falcon Perf Book ...and it talks about disconnecting the heater hose that runs through the carb. Has anybody done this and do you leave the ports open for air flow...or block them off?
CARB HEAT
- Thread starter 66Sprinter
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A
Anonymous
Guest
I would think you leave them open.
I am gonna do this when I get around to it
I am gonna do this when I get around to it
It will work either way, but if you want the coolest air around the carb as you can, leave it open. That is how mine is at present.
Personally, I'm skeptic of the whole thing. I think leaving it hooked up does more good. The heat helps vaporize the fuel faster. Disconecting it has to be such a minor difference. Changing the thermostat will do much more. I'm personally after higher mpg, so I'm going to hook mine back up. Anyone else have any thoughts?
Personally, I'm skeptic of the whole thing. I think leaving it hooked up does more good. The heat helps vaporize the fuel faster. Disconecting it has to be such a minor difference. Changing the thermostat will do much more. I'm personally after higher mpg, so I'm going to hook mine back up. Anyone else have any thoughts?
A
Anonymous
Guest
I have mine disconnected at this time, and have no issues at all. The tubes are open.
Bill
Bill
I was planning a small RAM type setup if the hoses come off..to direct cool air through the carb...and then run the two hoses together in a pair over the valve cover...
HEY CHAZ>..wheres the pic?
HEY CHAZ>..wheres the pic?
A
Anonymous
Guest
I think the whole point of the tubes is to run hot water through to open the choke faster. It works in conjunction with the heat tube from the exhaust manifold. Both of these devices are designed to make the engine warm up faster. If you run cold air through the tubes you could be preventing the choke from opening up all the way. Be careful.
Bill
Bill
A
Anonymous
Guest
The hot water spacer has nothing to do with the choke opening all the way (or faster). If that was the point of the spacer, then Ford wouldn't have put them on engines with a manual choke carb.
The 1964 shop manual says that the spacer is to "prevent carburetor icing at the throttle plate."
The 1964 shop manual says that the spacer is to "prevent carburetor icing at the throttle plate."
Howdy All:
The purpose of the hot water plate was to add heat to the carb in the winter to prevent "icing" and to cool it in the summer heat. 180 degree water is much cooler then the exhaust heat environment directly below the carb.
The spacer, by itself with no water circulating through it, serves as a thermal isolator, isolating the carb from the heat generated below it. Simply leaving dead air space adds to that function.
This is a very minute performance enhancer. Cooler gas and engines cause it to run rich. Cool gas is denser. A cooler engine tuned for it will make slightly more power.
Now if you are after maximum economy, then by all means, add and maintain all the heat you can. Gasoline becomes more volitile as it becomes warmer. Heat is energy. For economy, use a 190 degree thermostat and maintain carb heat.
If you're tuning for max performance, cool air to the carb, isolate and insulate the intake systems, including the carb, from heat, use a 180 thermostat.
In either case do not expect miracles.
Adios, David
The purpose of the hot water plate was to add heat to the carb in the winter to prevent "icing" and to cool it in the summer heat. 180 degree water is much cooler then the exhaust heat environment directly below the carb.
The spacer, by itself with no water circulating through it, serves as a thermal isolator, isolating the carb from the heat generated below it. Simply leaving dead air space adds to that function.
This is a very minute performance enhancer. Cooler gas and engines cause it to run rich. Cool gas is denser. A cooler engine tuned for it will make slightly more power.
Now if you are after maximum economy, then by all means, add and maintain all the heat you can. Gasoline becomes more volitile as it becomes warmer. Heat is energy. For economy, use a 190 degree thermostat and maintain carb heat.
If you're tuning for max performance, cool air to the carb, isolate and insulate the intake systems, including the carb, from heat, use a 180 thermostat.
In either case do not expect miracles.
Adios, David
OK Dave, thanks for the tips. Now I have some questions still.
(1) Since the pump runs all the time..why change to a 180 thermo
(2) With my stock setup and a cool spacer..IE richer setup..what about timing and spark plug gap. (I am currently running a Pertronix I system with .040 gap.
Jim
(1) Since the pump runs all the time..why change to a 180 thermo
(2) With my stock setup and a cool spacer..IE richer setup..what about timing and spark plug gap. (I am currently running a Pertronix I system with .040 gap.
Jim
66200i6
Famous Member
Open up that gap. Most of us here watch the condition of the "Tune" pretty close. With good wires you can increase the gap by .06, with a good tune (coil spark, good plugs ect.) you can add another .06. Personally I would open up that gap to at least .056 to start and continue until you have a problem. Then back off .06 for your final setting.
Oh, by the way if you have a heavy foot you should go the other way, reduce the gap by .10 for higher RPM’s.
Any other good practice is to make sure the end of the side electrode stops on the centerline of the center electrode. The spark will jumping from sharp edge to sharp edge, so if the sharp edge of the side electrode is over the middle of the center electrode you will be providing a better path for the spark for a longer period of time.
Then there is indexing…
Have fun and experiment, Ric.
Oh, by the way if you have a heavy foot you should go the other way, reduce the gap by .10 for higher RPM’s.
Any other good practice is to make sure the end of the side electrode stops on the centerline of the center electrode. The spark will jumping from sharp edge to sharp edge, so if the sharp edge of the side electrode is over the middle of the center electrode you will be providing a better path for the spark for a longer period of time.
Then there is indexing…
Have fun and experiment, Ric.
A
Anonymous
Guest
what if...you run a tube thru the a/c into the carb spacer.
I cant do it cause I have no a/c...but what if..
wouldnt this be like an intercooler on turbos?
I cant do it cause I have no a/c...but what if..
wouldnt this be like an intercooler on turbos?
I guess I am being conservative...my engine is not rebuilt and I suspect that there is some "oldness" to its condition...I have gone from .035 gap to .040...on my next setup I will gap at .045 and see how it runs from there. I was just curious if the heat in the carb spacer had anthing to do with the rotten idle the 6's all seem to have.
Howdy Back Jammer and All:
Yes, your water pump turns all the time, the thermostat simply regulates at what temperature coolant is allowed to circulate through the radiator. With a 180 degree thermostat, it will open when the engine side of the thermostat coolant gets to 180 deegrees. When driving in cold or cool winter driving it might partly close to maintain 180 by slowing coolant down. A 190 or 195 degree thermostat will give you higher heat to the heater
In extremely hot summer weather your coolant temperature may exceed the thermostat rating, but, if the thermostat is working properly coolant temp will never go below the rating. There may be some value in using a 160 degree thermostat in summer heat as it will allow radiator cooling function to kick in at a lower temp. Ultimately, you coolant temp will rise based on work load, ambiant temperature, and cooling system until heat is exchanged and temperature can be stabilized.
These two extremes are why FoMoCo added the spacer in the 1st place.
The true function of the thermostat is to hasten warm up and maintain a minimum engine coolant temperature. Engines work better at operating temperature. If you're after MPG you might consider using a 190 stat, assuming your cooling system can handle it.
Changing plug gap and plug heat range should be considered part of fine tuning a system. The balance is open plug gap until you notice missing at higher rpm and maintain a smooth idle. The Petronix coil should allow .045" to .048". This is probably the max.
Fix your idle by fine tuning the carb and ignition. Removing heated water from the carb spacer may worsen your idle, but it is not the cause of your rough idle. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks anywhere, manifold vacuum readings are at the highest possible by tuning the low speed air screw, initial advance is optimized, carb is clean and well adjusted, and that the ignition system is in tip-top shape- cap, rotor, plug wires. There is no reason that you shouldn't expect a stock 200 to idle smoothly, with or without hot water to the carb spacer.
Chaz, the volume of air in the carb spacer is not enough to have an effect from cooled air. It is also cooled already by passing through the venturi. If you want to do more you might try some kind of heat sheild between the carb spacer and the rest of the engine.
Good luck.
Adios, David
Yes, your water pump turns all the time, the thermostat simply regulates at what temperature coolant is allowed to circulate through the radiator. With a 180 degree thermostat, it will open when the engine side of the thermostat coolant gets to 180 deegrees. When driving in cold or cool winter driving it might partly close to maintain 180 by slowing coolant down. A 190 or 195 degree thermostat will give you higher heat to the heater
In extremely hot summer weather your coolant temperature may exceed the thermostat rating, but, if the thermostat is working properly coolant temp will never go below the rating. There may be some value in using a 160 degree thermostat in summer heat as it will allow radiator cooling function to kick in at a lower temp. Ultimately, you coolant temp will rise based on work load, ambiant temperature, and cooling system until heat is exchanged and temperature can be stabilized.
These two extremes are why FoMoCo added the spacer in the 1st place.
The true function of the thermostat is to hasten warm up and maintain a minimum engine coolant temperature. Engines work better at operating temperature. If you're after MPG you might consider using a 190 stat, assuming your cooling system can handle it.
Changing plug gap and plug heat range should be considered part of fine tuning a system. The balance is open plug gap until you notice missing at higher rpm and maintain a smooth idle. The Petronix coil should allow .045" to .048". This is probably the max.
Fix your idle by fine tuning the carb and ignition. Removing heated water from the carb spacer may worsen your idle, but it is not the cause of your rough idle. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks anywhere, manifold vacuum readings are at the highest possible by tuning the low speed air screw, initial advance is optimized, carb is clean and well adjusted, and that the ignition system is in tip-top shape- cap, rotor, plug wires. There is no reason that you shouldn't expect a stock 200 to idle smoothly, with or without hot water to the carb spacer.
Chaz, the volume of air in the carb spacer is not enough to have an effect from cooled air. It is also cooled already by passing through the venturi. If you want to do more you might try some kind of heat sheild between the carb spacer and the rest of the engine.
Good luck.
Adios, David
Wow..Dave thats alot...but about the rough idle. I noticed there wasnt much in the book about that...probably cuz all your engines run like new..but for my old tired engine and its cousins...what can we do about this...?
Jammer,
Most all our engines are old and tired. They're 40 years old afterall. This should make no differeance. Expecting that your engine holds oil and has compression, you should be able to make it idle like the rest of us. Check those things that David mentioned like vaccume leaks, good tune up parts and correctly installed, etc. You'll see. Don't be afraid to ask someone in your area to help turn a wrench. Experience can do wonders for your idle. Good luck.
Most all our engines are old and tired. They're 40 years old afterall. This should make no differeance. Expecting that your engine holds oil and has compression, you should be able to make it idle like the rest of us. Check those things that David mentioned like vaccume leaks, good tune up parts and correctly installed, etc. You'll see. Don't be afraid to ask someone in your area to help turn a wrench. Experience can do wonders for your idle. Good luck.
Ok...I am not afraid..just very cautious..but the advice is correct...
When I had rough idle, I pulled the spark plug wires, 1 cylinder at a time. I found one that had no effect on idle, and another that made little difference. The problem was low compression from 2 burn exhaust valves. It seemed to run okay until I idled at the traffic lights.
Howdy All:
Would that it were true Jammer. I've had more then my share of old and tired engines. It's true that some things you can fix or improve and some things you just have to live with. It's possible that your poor idle quality is as a result of burned valve(s) or a stuck lifter or broken rings or simply worn out, but maybe not. A vacuum guage would help you diagnose and help tune. The goal should be to get the most out of what you've got until you can get another shake on that money tree.
Anyway, I was just trying to help. Hang in there. The reason there wasn't anything in the FPH is that every situation is so diferenct and unique. We've thought about "how to search for a vacuum leak", or "how to search for a spark miss", but we don't have a handle on it yet. The problem is how to be general enough to be useful to all and yet be specific enough to be helpful- in one page or less. As it is the Handbook has grown to 100 pages- so far.
Adios, David
Would that it were true Jammer. I've had more then my share of old and tired engines. It's true that some things you can fix or improve and some things you just have to live with. It's possible that your poor idle quality is as a result of burned valve(s) or a stuck lifter or broken rings or simply worn out, but maybe not. A vacuum guage would help you diagnose and help tune. The goal should be to get the most out of what you've got until you can get another shake on that money tree.
Anyway, I was just trying to help. Hang in there. The reason there wasn't anything in the FPH is that every situation is so diferenct and unique. We've thought about "how to search for a vacuum leak", or "how to search for a spark miss", but we don't have a handle on it yet. The problem is how to be general enough to be useful to all and yet be specific enough to be helpful- in one page or less. As it is the Handbook has grown to 100 pages- so far.
Adios, David
A
Anonymous
Guest
Yeah, and it's the most fun 100 pages I've read in a long time!
