Carb rebuild kit?

[MikeM_66_Stang]

Just a quick question, because I haven't done a carb rebuild before. Looking to get a good price on a rebuild kit, as well as make sure I get the right one. I have the original 1-barrel carb on my 200.

Looked it up on National Parts Depot's website: Rebuild kit for Ford 1v carb, part #9A586-1, costs $24.95 Is that a good price, and is it the right kit? NPD is convenient and typically they have every part under the sun for 1st-gen Mustangs, but I don't think they are always cheapest.

My problem is that I'm not sure that I am finding the right kit on Autozone or some other places' sites, since I'm not entirely sure what model carb was the original part sorry I'm a newb at carbs.

 

[burnoutstang]

I picked up a rebuild kit at Napa for about that cost I think. The kit was great and I didn't have to be patient or pay for shipping.

 

[fordconvert]

Napa Echlin kit for the 1100 is # 2-5579

 

[BIGREDRASA]

If this is going to be your first rebuild, make sure to read the instructions thoroughly two or three times before you start diasassembly. The kits fit slightly different carbs/years, so not every part will be in your carb. Take photos, and label each part or set of parts, putting them in sandwich bags that are clearly labeled. You can use the numbers used in the schematic. Take pictures frequently before disassembling anything.

One more thing, I like to use my nearby parts stores because I can always walk over and exchange a wrong part. Mail order takes a longer, and you don't want to leave a part disassembled for a week or more.

 

[MikeM_66_Stang]

Thanks guys! NPD is actually not mail order for me, since their Midwest distribution center is here in SE Michigan, but it's still about an hour drive. I got all the parts there for the front-end rebuild that I did last summer - the great thing is that they carry everything, so you can just pick all the stuff you need out of the catalog, then one phone call to order it, and they have it all boxed up and waiting for you when you get there.

If I can get the kit at Napa I think I will, though, as there's one much closer. Thanks also for the advice about pictures and bagging parts. I do have a friend who will help me with the carb rebuild - he's done many of them over the years, including a recent one on his Fox-body 'Stang. It's one of those things that you just need to learn how to do, I think.

 

[ludwig]

Fear not. It will be easier than you expect. Just don't throw anything away before it is all back together and working.

I like to disassemble the original in a white plastic tub, like one from Rubbermaid. That way, everything is corralled while you are taking stuff apart and you can see it real well. Much easier than working with unfamiliar little bits on a newspaper. Also, no sparks from a collision of metal and basin.

I did a Rochester, or was it a Carter, on my '69 Plymouth 318. Notoriously temperamental, but it worked fine when I was done. You'll do okay. Just don't hurry and make sure you check all the tolerances and blow out the holes and passages. You can use a can of pressurized air for computer dusting.

 

[burnoutstang]

And dont over tighten anything. I screwed in the diaphragms just a hair to hard and it split it in two. Had to go buy a whole other rebuild kit. It is pretty easy stuff though.

 

[JackFish]

Yah it's really easy to strip a screw thread. :x

 

[burnoutstang]

Use these instructions. they were immensely helpful and very easy to follow.

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manu ... ndexf1.htm

 

[60s Refugee]

Problem with that NPD kit is that it lacks some of the parts you might need. The plastic choke linkage nuts are not there. No Plastic vent valve rod. No idle jet screw. Things like that. My 1100 had been on fire and had melted these parts. After paying what I thought was a high price for that kit, I still couldn't complete the rebuild, so I sent the whole works off to Pony and got a return from NPD on the kit. That was that.

So a forum friend mails me his old Autolite 1100 to add to my project. Guess what's missing....the plastic vent valve rod and spring! CRAP! But at least this carb hasn't been on fire.

I wonder where you can find parts like this?

Harry

 

[ludwig]

Problem with that NPD kit is that it lacks some of the parts you might need.
.....
Guess what's missing....the plastic vent valve rod and spring!

Why I said not to throw anything away until it is all back together and running.

 

[60s Refugee]

There was a day that this stuff littered the scrap yards and you could just "pick it up" so to speak. Today the repro parts cost as much as a tank of gas!

Harry

 

[fordconvert]

So a forum friend mails me his old Autolite 1100 to add to my project. Guess what's missing....the plastic vent valve rod and spring! CRAP! But at least this carb hasn't been on fire.

I wonder where you can find parts like this?

Harry

In my above picture you can see how I repaired my vent rod. It lasted about 6 months and then fell apart during the cam break in after I had the motor apart. I meant to do something about it but that was over a year ago and we have been driving it ever since with no issues. I have one carb that has a nicely done metal plug in it and another one with a metal rod so I have some options but until I read your post I forgot that it was missing from the carb I am running.

 

[MikeM_66_Stang]

Guys, first of all I just want to say thanks for the advice on the carb rebuild kit - it was great. I got the kit last week and did the rebuild on Sunday, it was not too difficult

The car runs better than it did before, but I still have one little problem. It runs fine when I first start it up, but once the engine warms up (about 1-2 minutes) it then stalls at idle. It also runs kind of rough at idle. It's fine and runs smooth as long as I am giving it a little gas.

My problem is that I don't know how to tweak the carb to get it to run at idle. There are these three screws on the carb. One is mixture, one is fast idle, and one is regular idle (?) There is also a nut that rests on a swivel on the choke lever, which stops the choke valve from closing completely. My carb has the thermostatic spring which is supposed to relax and open the choke as the engine warm up, and that seems to be working. I know that you are supposed to set the mixture screw at 1 1/2 turns, then adjust in 1/2 turn increments until it runs smooth. I have also tried adjusting the idle screws, but I can't seem to figure it out. I can't find a good, simple, easy-to-follow explanation on how to tweak these three screws. I have the Chilton's and have read it; I read the kit's instructions, including the thing about putting the drill bit next to the choke valve; I have hunted on the internet looking for a procedure; but they all seem to be written for someone who has done this before and I'm having trouble figuring this out.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!! thanks

 

[fordconvert]

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Two things to invest in are a Vacuum Gauge and a Tach/Dwell Meter or Tach. The "mixtue" screw is the knurled screw at the base. The high speed screw rests on a cam only when the choke is closed, and needs to be set with a tach. The regular Idle Screw is the one that affects the opening of the throttle at idle.

Several things will affect your idle. Among them is timing that's retarded, and a vacuum leak. You need a timing light for the first, and an unlit propane torch waved around the joints for the second (do open the gas).

The idle speed and mixture settings are done by setting the idle high enough to keep running in gear (for Auto), and then setting the mixture for smooth running. Then you reduce the idle and tweak the misxture until you have a smooth idle around 500-550 RPM.

 

[fordconvert]

Sounds like you need to start by bumping up the base idle a bit. Then you may have to go back and tweak the mixture again. Timing comes into play to add a little more back and fourth.

 

[MikeM_66_Stang]

Thanks again - the pictures are good, I did have it right in my head

I have the base idle set as fast as I can (the spring is compressed max) and still can't get it to run smooth at idle - it stalls and dies. The fast idle screw does not reach the cam on the choke lever.

This is a car than ran like a champ when I bought it, and for a year afterward, then suddenly developed this problem about two months ago while out driving. I didn't move the fast idle screw or the choke adjust nut when I did the rebuild. I only started adjusting those after re-installing the carb, when I could not get the car to idle without stalling. I did adjust the float during the rebuild - it was about 3/8" out of spec according to the kit.

I guess it may not have been the carb at all - I suppose I will investigate timing next . . .

p.s. this car is 3-speed manual trans if it matters. I thought it was a manual choke at first, because there is a choke knob in the cabin, but the carb does have the spring & housing so I assume that means auto choke?

 

[fordconvert]

The one in my picture is an auto choke.

I think we need to look at your ignition system. What is it?

 

[MikeM_66_Stang]

The ignition system is the same as the original stock I believe, distributor w/points. It's fairly new however, I think the previous owner replaced it - it doesn't look worn at all. Spark plug cables also look fairly new. I opened the cap and the points look clean. I also borrowed a timing light from my neighbor, though I haven't used one before - that was the next thing I planned to research.

One more question, also - where would a vacuum leak be most likely to appear? That is another thing I plan to look at tonight when I get home.