Carburetor confusion

[Anonymous]

I'm looking at options for a 1 barrel carb for my '67 coupe with man trans. and totally stock. The local parts store quoted $200+ for a re-built Autolite 1100. My current one looks exactly like the 1100 in the shop manual including a dashpot although my car is a 3 speed. The shop manual says that the Carter YF was used on 170-200 motors with "improved combustion system" equipment??? Anyway, some advice would be helpful. Should I stick with the 1100 and shop for the best price, or is there an advantage in going with the Carter YF? If so, do I have to modify a lot of stuff to mount the Carter? Seems to me if I'm going to put down $200 the Pony is better than a quicky sweat shop rebuild??? BTW if I just wanted cheap, JC Whitney has 1 barrels for $99 and no core charge.

 

[Anonymous]

I'm no expert,but........If you are looking for a cheap rebuilt, check AutoZone or Parts America web site. One of them had the 1100 for $80 something. I say lose the Autolite! My recent Falcon 200 came with a "sweatshop" rebuid that was notheing but trouble. Needle valve didnot seat well and the the carb kept flooding when i slowed down or stopped. I put a new kit in that carb and while working on geting the float right it was still flooding and the set engine compartment on fire. Give me your address and money for postage and I'll give you that one. I have had Carter YF's in the past and they tend to very reliable. ( I had one from a 51 Nash that I kept around just to use to test motors to see if a bad carb was the problem. Anything I put that on ran fine ) A Carter would not fit my manifold, so I went with the Holly replacement. I think I got it from the Parts America website (Advance Auto in jersey. I think it around $130 and a $30 core. It was Factory Holley rebuilt and packaged with every thing I needed to directly replace the Autolite. I think it was a 1946 Holley. It was what they sent when I ordered the 1101 option. It was about twice as much as I could have gotten another rebuilt Autolite, but well worth the extra money. It work flawlessly right out of the box and with very minor adjustments after the car warmed up. I have put 200 miles on it and I'm happy. I have not filled up the tank again, but it looks like my box stock automatic wagon got at least 20 mpg. There is a post here farther back explaining what you need to do put the Carter on, but the rebuilt Holley went right on. It can be frustrating, I'm happy with the Holley. Good luck.......Johnny

 

[Anonymous]

My 70 Maverick had a Carter YF-1, it worked like a champ. My 82 Fairmont has a Holley 1946, and it is a trouble free carb.

I agree, ditch the Autolite, and go with one of those.

 

[66Sprinter]

I recently replaced the Autolite 1100 on my 200. The tranny was originally a 3spd but was changed to a T5. The carb on my car was a rebuilt of some age but no manufacturers tag was visible.

My problems with this carb was : Poor idle; Problems with stalling when hot; restarting problems; and generally poor performance and MPG. The symptoms I described were the same before and after a rebuild kit.

I then purchased a reman carb from Carb. Exchange. Like Pony they advertise a "tuned" carb ready to bolt on. The first difference I noted when I got this carb ($179) was that it had two accelerator pumps. (An FSP member advised that this carb was used with automatics and the single pump design was used with manual trannies. He suspected that the dual pump design was better!)

The carb bolted on and started and ran great. I had to set the idle, choke and later adjust the richness..but overall I am satisfied immensely. I do not have any of the original problems.

Take this advice as is. I am not promoting Carb Exchange but I would advise that the auto style carb is an upgrade over the manual style one. If there were improvements in the carb...ala Pony...then they do work.

Thats what I know....

 

[ski4evr]

If I recall correctly, the anti-stall dashpot on the passenger side of the autolite 1100's is for the automatics. It provides resistence when the accelerator is let go (i.e. when you take your foot off the gas). The resistence lets the throttle valve shut slower. The resistence is provided by a dashpot, a spring, and gas. It is a similar design to the power valve on the driver's side of the carb (I forgot the right term for it) that shoots in X number of cc's of gas when you accelerate (letting the fuel in the carb passageways time to "catch up" to the increased demand). But, the anit-stall dashpot does not squirt in gas - it just has the little black pad with the metal tab in the middle and a spring behind it to slow down the throttle plate when shutting. Gas does flow in/out behind the black pad, but it comes from and goes back into the fuel bowl. The gas and ballchecks are for hydrualic resistence only. The resistence (or slowness of the throttle to shut factor) can be adjusted to suite your driving needs by turning in/out on the screw that presses on the metal tab of the black pad. I'm assuming that manuals usually don't need this feature. But, if you car stalls or stumbles around turns...use it if ya' got it.

ski

(my English teacher would kill me for all of the run on sentences)

 

[JoeTrojan]

If you have a load-o-matic, you need spark control.

I have a Holley 1940 with spark control valve. works well, except the accelerator pump volume is a little low...

I'm about to go to a 2-v and duraspark....but first step was biger carb.