All Small Six Carburetor/ fuel problems

[200]

Hi fellas,
Let me start by saying”I’m not a mechanic “
But for the last two years I’ve been working on a 1964 Ford Falcon that my 14 year old granddaughter just loves.
It was running fine until the fuel pump went out and I can’t seem to get it to stay running after installing the third new fuel pump. The new fuel pumps kept flooding the carburetor ( leaking out of the vent valve rod hole). I installed a new pressure regulator ( Holley ) set the pressure to 41/2 lbs. and it ran beautifully again for about five minutes and died once again and won’t restart.
Can someone take a novice to school on how to resolve my problems and get my cherished Falcon fixed?

 

[frozenrabbit]

I'd suggest inspecting the tank, pick-up and supply line and hoses. I've had the same issues on my '63. Had to add in a regulator as the newer pumps were too much pressure for an Autolite 1100 and Holley 1904 carbs. I ran into fuel flow issues from rust and sediment in original tank getting sucked up by the pick-up and clogging inline filters repeatedly. Ended up with a new tank, pickup, lines and hoses, no issues since.

 

[powerband]

... start simple, howz' the tank/lines condition?. Persistent carb flooding / plugging as described sometimes can be attributed to fuel tank or rubber line deterioration particulates in fuel . Backyard 'mechanic' could try adding typical clear fuel filters before and after pump. ( small mower size fuel tank gravity fed into carb could try at a shop ).
.

.

 

[ActionYobbo]

What fuel are you using? Did you put an ethanol proof seat in the float?

Also.. it’s good go see another 64 4 door

 

[200]

Thanks for the posts guys. Let me give you a little history. I have a brand new tank, a brand new sending unit and brand new lines and hoses from the tank to the completely rebuilt autolite 1100 carburetor. There are 2 inline fuel filter prepump and post pump and as I said before everything was running fine until I put the new fuel pump on the car. I also installed an inline pressure regulator from Mr. Gasket between pump and carburetor. I sat it to 4.5 pounds. After the pressure regulator was installed the car started up immediately ran perfectly and then died after a few minutes.
I am beginning to believe that I need to buy a new remanufactured carburetor.
I am going to try what powertank suggested by putting the mower tank gravity fed into the carburetor. If that works then I know the carb should be fine and I have other issues.
But if I do decide to buy a new remanufactured Auotlite 1100. Where do you suggest I purchase from?
Is there another carburetor that would work for my Falcon 200 inline 6 that you would suggest?

 

[powerband]

seems simple enough but gravity fed from local tank will confirm any tank problem but have to say : ignition problems often mimic carb symptoms.
.
recent episode with 'new' points ignition 'condensor' on a '63 200 taught me .
.
have fun
.

 

[awasson]

seems simple enough but gravity fed from local tank will confirm any tank problem but have to say : ignition problems often mimic carb symptoms.
.
recent episode with 'new' points ignition 'condensor' on a '63 200 taught me .
.
have fun
.

Yes, good point on the ignition. It seems the “new” condensers are a failure point.

 

[Frank]

Thanks for the posts guys. Let me give you a little history. I have a brand new tank, a brand new sending unit and brand new lines and hoses from the tank to the completely rebuilt autolite 1100 carburetor. There are 2 inline fuel filter prepump and post pump and as I said before everything was running fine until I put the new fuel pump on the car. I also installed an inline pressure regulator from Mr. Gasket between pump and carburetor. I sat it to 4.5 pounds. After the pressure regulator was installed the car started up immediately ran perfectly and then died after a few minutes.
I am beginning to believe that I need to buy a new remanufactured carburetor.
I am going to try what powertank suggested by putting the mower tank gravity fed into the carburetor. If that works then I know the carb should be fine and I have other issues.
But if I do decide to buy a new remanufactured Auotlite 1100. Where do you suggest I purchase from?
Is there another carburetor that would work for my Falcon 200 inline 6 that you would suggest?

Before replacing a fresh rebuilt carb: It is very easy for a tiny piece of debris or a sliver of rubber fuel line to get into the needle and jam it open whenever the system is opened up. In my experience, it happens about 30% of the time I open up a fuel line, replace a pump, etc. It only takes a speck. Since your components are new (nice!) and it ran fine until you opened it up, logic says there's a speck not allowing the needle to seat fully.

Here is an old trick that works, and has been around since before my time: using a hammer, lightly tapping on the carburetor, as close to where the needle/seat are located as possible. More often than not, this will dislodge the debris, and removing the carb top is not necessary. Procedure: With no pressure in the fuel system, and preferably with the carb bowl not full where it's holding the seat closed: begin tapping. Use decent force- it's common to see an old carb that is dimpled and dinged from this procedure. Light but rapid impacts. Once tapping begins, have someone start the engine. Keep tapping for 30 seconds or so. You have at least a 50% chance this will clear the issue.

 

[Frank]

200 , it's also possible the new pump has enough pressure to overpower the regulator. I presume this is one of the inexpensive non-return type regulators. It shouldn't but the unfortunate reality of overseas manufacturing is- a high % of new pumps are defective, both low and high pressures. If it's still flooding after assuring the needle/seat are operating correctly, the next step would be to install a quality non-return, or a return regulator, preferably with a gauge. A bit pricy, but less than replacing the carb again. Plumbing a return-type is not hard. . Just FYI. .

I've found stock engines will operate correctly with 3 psi pressure. You may also try turning the pressure down. The least pressure possible that still supplies enough fuel at full throttle is all that's needed, reduces hot-start issues, and extends the life of the needle.

 

[frozenrabbit]

I'd check to see if the regulator caused the pump diaphragm to blow out, check the oil for fuel smell. "Quality control" standards are garbage.

I don't get why the new fuel pumps are so much over pressured from OEM specs.

 

[200]

Thanks for reply I will give this a try tomorrow.
I have read that a Holley 1904 carburetor would be a better option as far as carburetors go. Is that something that Holley still makes new?

 

[Frank]

Thanks for reply I will give this a try tomorrow.
I have read that a Holley 1904 carburetor would be a better option as far as carburetors go. Is that something that Holley still makes new?

As far as I know, only the Edlebrock carbs are still made in Sanford, N.C. USA. All other new carbs are overseas. Maybe Holley still makes a few in Bowling Green, KY. but I doubt the 1904 model would be one. Your indicator of country of origin is price: the cheap carbs- cheaper now than theses carbs were new 40 years ago- with the shinny silvery looking cast are from China. There's a 50/50 chance it will function correctly.
There are two sources I trust for new carbs- they get China castings, but build the carbs here. Much better chance of Q.C. and a warranty.

National Carburetors.com
Mikes Carburetors

 

[FuzzyDriver]

Maybe I missed it, but is your new fuel pump an OEM type or an electric fuel pump?

 

[200]

My fuel pumps are mechanical. I ordered the last one from Summit who said it was made by Carter. Carter claimed they made these mechanical pumps in Indiana but when I get it, it had the same marking and the bottom of the box said made in China. I don't know if the box was made in China and the pump was made here but I kinda doubt it, lol! I installed the pump and just like the other 2 before it, the pump flooded my carburetor so installed a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure regulator, placed it on 4.5 pounds but now the car won't even start. Someone told that when i had the other pumps on the without the regulator that it could have damaged the internals of the carburetor. So thats where I am at.

 

[FuzzyDriver]

Did you check the outlet pressure of the fuel pump before installing the regulator? An OP put an electric fuel pump on my 200-6 and didn't bother with a regulator. The pressure at the carburetor was 11 PSI. I put on a Holley regulator & gauge and set it for 4.5 psi. This pressure seems about right. Since that is also what you set yours to and we have the same Autolite 1100, I believe you're OK there. Is your carburetor inlet fuel filter one of the translucent kinds so you can see if there's anything collecting in there? I sure sounds like either an inlet needle that can't stop fuel flow (clogged needle, wrong needle, missing seat gasket, damaged viton needle, damaged seat) or problem with the float/assembly such that it's keeping the inlet needle valve open - you are sure the float is adjusted properly right?

Just listen to Frank, he helped me immeasurably getting my 200-6 to run like a top.

 

[frozenrabbit]

I use a Holley regulator, set with a pressure gauge. I don't think those Mr. Gasket regulators are accurate, or good quality. Too much plastic, I'm sure they are China made.

 

[62falcon wagon]

If you have fuel leaking from the carburetor than your fuel pump is pumping fuel, okay pump is working. Fuel overflowing from carb, your float needle is not stopping fuel when bowl is full.
Possible culprits are
1- trash between needle and seat ( most common)
2-float adjustment incorrect (common)
3-too much pressure at carb intake (I run Weber carbs, only need ~3lbs.)
As was mentioned when replacing ANYTHING in fuel supply bits of deteriorated fuel line or trash travel downstream. first symptom is non seating needle and/or clogged jets. These carbs are very simple.
1- source a rebuild kit.
2-Put a clean towel on a table, phone camera at the ready, disassemble carb. Take pics for reassemble reference.
3-thoroughly clean carb with spray can carb cleaner and air pressure. If no air compressor, air in a can will do or even blowing through carb cleaner straw. All passageways and jets need to be pristine.
4- reassemble and install with new gaskets & parts from kit.
This is not a skilled mechanic job. This was a maintenance item back when these vehicles were produced. Adjusting valves, changing points/plugs and basic tune ups and fluid changes were a part of owning a vehicle. Owners then were not smarter than you, just more experienced because they did it. Settling up an online account on your phone/ computer is way more complicated.
Having a half decent tool set, a set of feeler gauges, timing light and some reference sources and it becomes a satisfying experience when that little engine suddenly purrs like a well fed kitten.

 

[funkaholik]

Owners then were not smarter than you, just more experienced because they did it.

Amen.