All Small Six Carburetor size

This relates to all small sixes

alwill923

Well-known member
Supporter 2018
I have a C9DE (looks like a 9) head from I was told a mustang. I have the complete engine (without carburetor and distributor) with a block number C8DE. I would like to know what carburetor would fit this manifold with a 3 5/16 bolt spacing and an approximate opening slightly less than 1 3/4. Any other information on this head would be appreciated.
Thanks
c9 cylinder head2.jpegc9 cylinder head 3.jpegc9 cylinder head1.jpeg
 
Can you show us the chamber side?
All small sixes used an AL, adapter, you need the adapter for that year, group., the carb does not bolt directly to the manifold.
 
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Congrats on finding that C9DE-6090-M Log Head it was one of the more sot after heads to use back in the day it was supposed to be off of a 170 six if I remember right and was talked about by Ak Miller as having an excellent Combustion Chamber Shape, and being the best flowing head at that time. The Mods that you can do to improve the head are to open up that Carb Opening to at least 1 3/4 inch (Like was used on the 1977 up Log Heads so then you could use any of the later model and larger 1V Carbs. You could even open that Carb Opening up more like to 2 or even maybe 2 1/8 inches, especially if you should ever want to use one of the Carb Adapter's going from a 1V Carb to a 2V Carb. Other Mods that will help is to do a generous Radius on the bottom of the Heads Carb opening going into the Log this helps the AIR / Fuel flow to turn into the Log. The Direct 2V Carb mounting plate is the very best set up and could also be done. Opening up the Valve Bowls from below the seat down (Pocket Porting) installing the later model 200 / 250 1 3/4 inch Intake Valves (or you can also go to a 1.80 or slightly bigger Intake Valve) the 1977 to 1983 200 / 250 engines used the 1 3/4 inch valves. Full Porting of the Exhaust Side, installing the Center 3 / 4 Port divider, and using a 1 1/2 to 1.60 inch Exhaust Valve some also like using Hard Seats for the Exhaust. Make sure the Valve Guides are in spec to.

The 1968 and 1969 Ford Small sixes used an Autolite 1100 and in 1969 was the last year for this Carb. There is also a difference from a 1968 Carb to the 1969 Carb's linkage as Ford went with Cable Throttle Linkage starting in 1969. The Carb that you need to use will be decided by the Throttle Linkage that you are using. Best of luck.
 
Thanks for the replies!

The car now (1960 falcon) has the 144 engine which I am going to replace with a 200. The 144 has an aluminum spacer for the heater hoses to attach to. Drag 200 - If this is the aluminum spacer you are referring too, it has a 1-5/8 bolt spacing for the manifold side. Is there another aluminum spacer specifically for this manifold with the 3- 5/16 bolt spacings? The 68 head has 2-5/8 bolt spacing. What do you mean by the camber side? I can easily send more pictures.

Bubba thanks for the detailed reply. I do not plan on hopping up this engine to any great degree. I will do the hardened seats, a slightly larger carb and cam, forged custom pistons (diamond pistons), positive valve seals, new valves, ARP rod bolts and main and head studs. Why custom forged pistons you ask? This way I can set the piston pin height for a zero deck height (.040 quench) instead of decking the block. The block is done 30 over. The crank is done 10 under. I want to keep the compression ratio close to but under 9.0 to one. If I need a dish I can have it done to match the head. Also I can put the pistons on the rods with floating pins.

I have two heads, a 68 and this 69 and the 69 does have a better combustion chamber; the quench area is even with the deck surface. The 68 head cc's at 54.9 and the 69 at 59.4. I just need to determine how much to surface the head and if the pistons need a dish for the CR. This will be matched to the cam for the DCR.

I called Schneider and they have no cam blanks but can regrind one of the cams that came with the engines I have as it will not be very radical. As I can see the only item that may be hard to get is the valves.

Again thanks for the replies!
 
Yes, chamber side I missed the h.
Yes, you need the adapter that came on the head or one like it if you are going to stay one barrel. Not sure what will match your 60 falcon throttle/ auto kick down, hook up. I am sure that something can be done. You may want to look at Weber progressive two barrel carb adapter and not have to find the original adapter, Vintage Inline's sells them ,I think. Like Bubba said the direct mount two barrel would be best, but it is more work.
Are you sure it is a 200?
 
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Another Ford carb that will bolt on with the simple stock spacer (avoid the later EGR monstrosities) is the 1101. Late 60s models, as installed on the 1969 Mustang 250, had no SCV and a bigger venturi than the 1100 for easier flow in the bigger six.
 
Attached are more pictures.
I am fairly sure this is a 200 head. What I noticed between this one and the 68 head is the intake log appears larger and flatter on top. The valve heads measure 1.653 intake and 1.397 exhaust.
This chart is from classic inlines. Could this head bee from a 69-71 that has been cut from 62 to 59.4 as I cc'd??? Could it be the 1240 log?? This still does not explain the 3-5/16 bolt spacing.IMG_2118.jpgIMG_2119.jpgIMG_2120.jpgIMG_2121.jpg

YEAR​
CI​
Chamber​
Intake​
Exhaust​
Log CC​
Adv HP​
Adv TQ​
60-64​
144​
44-51​
1.467​
1.266​
850​
90​
138​
61-65​
170​
48-53​
1.522​
1.266​
890​
105​
158​
65-72​
170​
48-53​
1.649​
1.380​
890​
105​
158​
65-69​
200​
51-53​
1.649​
1.380​
1100​
120​
190​
69-71​
200​
62​
1.649​
1.380​
1240​
120​
190​
 
Surprisingly, the Falcon Six Handbook says the C9DE-M head was used on 170, 200, and 250 engines in the second half of 1969. I have one, and it does look like the little "lip" on the straight side of the combustion chamber has been cut down a bit on yours, as compared to my as yet unmilled copy. Generally, people say that lip is just about gone with the usual mill job. Those that have done it will know better than I.

Oh, and the 3 5/16" spacer mounting bolt spread is normal. The carb mounting stud spread on the spacer is the same as the older 1.5" inlet head, but the 1.75" inlet bore heads have a spacer with a wider stance.
 
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Trick six - you reply is what I thought might have been done to the head. Where do I get the spacer with a wider stance for this head???
vintage inlines gives some spacers but does not give the dimensions of the bolt centerlines and the bore size. They do not seem to have one that specifically fits this. I have emailed them and see what they say. If I have to I will make one. I have learned a long time ago, if someone makes it buy it instead of trying to make it.
 
Kind of expensive, but a pic of one on eBay can be seen at item #155040998445. Ford part #DODE-9A589-A. Someone around here should have one cheaper.

I went to Vintage Inlines and yes, they had the old 1.5" inlet spacer, but not the one for the 1.75" inlet heads that you need.
 
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Thank you for putting the pic's up. That is a 200/250 head at 62cc. Was thinking it may be the large log 170 52cc head and the block being C8 may be a 170, but you have it and would know. I think that it is the 1240 cc log.
 
Stainless steel aftermarket valves may be hard to find now (like everything else), but the stock ones should be around. Use the '77 and later 1.75 intakes, and for a bigger exhaust valve try the old 144 intake valves. I found TRW NOS on eBay for both. Where's your Falcon Six handbook?
 
Kind of expensive, but a pic of one on eBay can be seen at item #155040998445. Ford part #DODE-9A589-A. Someone around here should have one cheaper.

I went to Vintage Inlines and yes, they had the old 1.5" inlet spacer, but not the one for the 1.75" inlet heads that you need.
Don't buy this particular spacer on eBay. Not only is it ridiculously expensive, but when I looked at the enlarged pics I could see that the carb mounting stud threads are all completely stripped out of it. I informed the seller, but his ad still says excellent condition at full price. The pic still shows you what you need though.
 
I have ordered a piece of aluminum and I will make one. This way I can install taps and connections as needed to hook to my throttle linkage.
 
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