Conversion to 2bbl

[Anonymous]

Hi everyone! New to the forum. Got a '67 Mustang Coupe, 200ci inline six.
It's a bit sluggish, so I'm thinking about converting to a 2bbl.

Has anyone done this conversion on a '67 Stang?

I've seen the adapters but what are the carb recommendations -- make and model numbers?

Anything else I need to think about?

Thanks for your guidance.

 

[gtm1086]

I have tried several different set up's over the years from the old one barrel stock on up to a triple. The best by far has been a 350 cfm Holley two barrel with the adapter to make it fit. It is very tunable and easy to get parts for. I feel that if your engine is pretty much stock you would have pretty much a bolt it on and go carb.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for your reply! My engine is stock. I've dressed it up with some chrome but that's it.

On the carb...what about the choke? My current one isn't manual. What about electric and automatic? I'm confused.

Thanks again!

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for your reply! My engine is stock. I've dressed it up with some chrome but that's it.

On the carb...what about the choke? My current one isn't manual. What about electric and automatic? I'm confused.

Thanks again!

 

[gtm1086]

The stock Holley 350 cfm has a manual choke. I just have it wired open. Yes it's a bit cold blooded at first but warms up quick. You can get a choke cable kit at pretty much any auto parts store. The other thing you need to do is make up a linkage for thr throttle. I think converting to a cable is the easiest and cleanest. Look at the Lokar throttle cable kits.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks again! Is this the carb you're talking about?

http://www.holley.com/types/Two%20Barrel%20Street.asp

 

[TheDude]

How is your exhaust system? If you are installing a larger carburetor with more airflow you need to compliment it with a better-than-stock exhaust system. Otherwise you will have more air coming in but the same amount going out. A performance header (like a split manifold 6 into 2 header) and a good pipe/muffler setup will really benefit performance. If you get a performance header you need to install a port divider in the #3 and #4 exhaust ports. A port divider separates these ports. You also need a carb adapter. I have the one from Clifford Performance. They also have the port divider. The one from Clifford puts the carb in the right direction, with the throttle linkage on the passenger side of the car.

For the electric choke hookup you can connect it to the Stator terminal on the alternator. Do a search for the electric choke (there is a recent post about this).

The accelerator linkage can get tricky. Don't let some of these lucky guys fool you. I have seen setups where the linkage just needed a small piece of metal to extend the arm to reach the throttle on the carburetor. I have had three HW 5200 2bbl carbs, all with different linkages. I currently have a cable throttle setup on mine. You will have to determine the best option when you get the carburetor.

 

[Anonymous]

Wow! Thanks so much for the tremendous insight. I'm new at this -- and have no experience -- so I appreciate your guidance.

 

[addo]

One caveat - look hard at your ignition system first. Any shortcomings there, will remain after a carb swap.

There's a range of DIY and bolt-on improvements to ignition; they may in fact help combat some of the sluggishness you note.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[falcon fanatic]

I think the takeaway message here is that you should thing of upgrades in terms of "kits" rather than indivicual items. Bolting on a carb may help some, but your engine will fall short in terms of both ignition and exhaust. The basic upgrade then, is ignition, exhaust and carb all together. If you can only afford one of these, I would start with the ignition as it affects all aspects of how the car runs: starting, power, and fuel economy. It's also a fundamental prerequisite to getting adequate performance out of a bigger carb.

There are more expensive and less expensive way to go about it. The Duraspark conversion seems to be the best balance in terms of price/performance, with many options for upgrading advance curve, module, coil, as needed. But many people seem happy with the Pertronix conversion to their existing distributor, and that's relatively cheap even with a hot coil. If you are committed, however, I fee there is no substitute for the DUI. It'll cost you dearly, though.

So, consider your budget and see what you can afford. Even knowing some will disagree, I think I would proceed in this order: Ignition, header and exhaust, and carb. Next would be major headwork, or an aluminum head.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Bishop and All:

Let's review- There are two different directions to go in upgrading to a two barrel carb on your '67 200. They are the Holley/Weber, two stage two barrel, or the wide base Holley 2300 models, such as the 350 gmt is using, and it's cousin, the Autolite 2100. All of the above can be fitted with electric, hot air, or hot water assisted automatic chokes.

Both the Holley/Weber and Holley 2300s are avaiable new and parts are easy to find. The Autolite 2100s are no longer made and parts are harder to find.

Both types require an adaptor or a modified log. When using an adaptor hood clearance may become and issue. Direct mounting is a better performance choice, but requires that the head be off for the machining and modifications.

Both types of carb upgrades will require adaptation of linkage, fuel lines, choke and an air cleaner. Both will likely require fine tuning.

Since your car is a '67 it has an Autolite 1100 carb with a Spark Control Valve which sends a specific load vacuum signal to the stock Load-O-Matic distributor. The carb and distributor are designed to work together. If you change one, the other will not work as designed. There are "Stickies" at the top of this topic on SCVs and L-o-M distributors. Please read.

Also please heed the good advice from Adam on resolving any problems you have before modifications and make sure your ignition system is in tip-top shape.

I'd add that there is a wealth of information and experience on this forum. I'd encourage you to learn to use the "Search" function and read, Read, READ!!! Then plan, Plan, PLAN!!!! FF suggested a kit approach to your modifications. Heed his advice too.

Finally, some more questions- Is your car an auto trans or manual? Is this a daily driver or garage queen?

That should be enough info to get you started. Keep us posted on your plans and ideas.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Hi David! My '67 is equipped with automatic transmission. It's not a daily driver.

Thanks to everyone for all the great advice and guidance. Can't put a price tag on that. I'm grateful!

 

[gtm1086]

Thanks again! Is this the carb you're talking about?

http://www.holley.com/types/Two%20Barrel%20Street.asp

That's the one

 

[Bort62]

Since your car is a '67 it has an Autolite 1100 carb with a Spark Control Valve which sends a specific load vacuum signal to the stock Load-O-Matic distributor. The carb and distributor are designed to work together.

Hate to do this to ya David, but no. The Autolite 1100 w/ SCV will work just fine independent of the distributor choice. It is only the L-O-M dist that is dependent on the SCV's vac signal to function properly.

So ditch the LOM, go with a DSII - and run it off manifold vacuum is a perfectly viable option.

 

[Anonymous]

Leaning toward the DUI. I'm no technical guru (a beginner - novice), so that means the easiest to install and best bang for the buck.

Since I've got a '67 Mustang 200 ci, what's involved in this conversion?

Thanks everyone!

 

[Bort62]

about 400$ you won't ever see again.

 

[Anonymous]

What?

 

[addo]

That's something like the cost of a DUI setup.

Your cheapest extensive upgrade uses the Motorcraft DS-II distributor, triggering a module for GM ignitions. It's a reasonable alternative, comes in a bit cheaper and has the additional benefit of appealing to DIY types.

However, the distributor may need a rebuild if bought used, and will likely need a recurve - even if purchased rebuilt.