Cool advice - racing radiator ?

powerband

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'61 I'm working on has a Maverick Radiator in it which is bigger than the original. I've been running a " built" 170 . I never had any cooling problems until I recently installed a "built" 250. Now using 14" Perma cool 2950 CFM Fan because there is no for pump mounted fan and it's running hot. .


I'm considering a Summit "Racing radiator . Although it is of 2 core design it has 1" tubes and is alum. crossflow..

Any experience with these?

sum-380425_w.jpg


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

Thanx
Powerband
 
PB-
I used a 2 row aluminum radiatior racing radiatior (From Big End Radiators) that looks to be the same as the one sold at Summit.
2rads.jpg


It REALLY cooled my 250 but I have switched to a more stock 3 row Mustang/falcon radiator.

Be prepared for a LOT of fabrication if you want to put it in a 63 Comet.

1. Fabricate mounting backets
2. Bend/trim radiator support to allow rad to sit farther forward
(the rad support is cupped at the edges to mate with the standard radiator, but becasue the racing rad is larger, the cupped edges need to be bent flat)
3. No drain/stopcock
(one can be purchased as part of a tube with a valve that you splice into the lower rad hose)
3. Need auxiallary tranny cooler
4. The buliky horns from the 63 Comet had to be removed to allow the wider rad to sit in the front
5. Since the rad was a tad wider than stock and since it did not sit super close to the rad support (see the cupping comments) is was VERY close to my damper bolts, and ther was NO WAY I could get a mechanical fan installed. So I used a large pusher 14" fan.
6. Front Vertical Rad support had to be trimmed to allow the fan to fit between it and te rad
7. Temp switch "T'd" into the upper rad hose with a pipe fitting, but could tap the T-stat housing or install in the stopcock (but I had none).

radalum1.jpg


radalum2.jpg



After all this my car was EXTREMELY cool, almost never going over 160. (with a 160 T-stat), and the fan kicking in only rarely while idling. When I rebuilt the engine last year, I replaced the aluminum rad set up with a 3 row stock rad because my Alum rad had a very tiny leak somewhere.

Good Luck!
 
I also used an aluminum radiator from summit on my '67. Had to fabricate some mounts, but it looked and worked good.

6fec05f6.jpg
 
A 2 row aluminum radiator will outperform a copper radiator of the same size do to the construction of the fins. IThe aluminum t is probably overkill as many 289's and 302's got by using a 3 row copper radiator.
If you are looking for economy go copper. Going for less weight, better performance and a certain amount of "coo factor" go with the more expensive aluminum radiator.
Doug
 
Thanks for the tips and especially the pics :

I went ahead and ordered the 19X26 from Summit and some Granada X-flow application hoses for a 250(4.1) figrin' they should be close.


I tried the little 2 row from my '63 since I had it re-cored and it runs real cool. It worked OK running warm but not over @ 210 so the bigger Alum. should work out (I hope).

(Rwrench - The '61 had batt acid rot off the front suspension and readiator support so I've discussed & reviewed your pics in other threads, kudos...)

Powerband
 
I went with a big block radiator in my car that had a real bad overheating problem: good news - it doesn't even think about getting hot and it looks totally stock, like it belongs. Can't say that about an aluminum rad. bad news - the heater doesn't work because it barely gets warm enough; it's a huge overkill. I got a tri-power 250 going in maybe the BB rad won't be such an overkill. If so, I'll look for a small block rad.

Good luck,
 
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