Decipher numbers ID this please! Quickly!

Timnmelinda

Well-known member
I called a guy has a six cylinder engine he took out of 74 Maverick
He says it is 105 HP he says it was "professionally rebuilt 10,000 miles ago
Been sitting in his garage 2 years. He says he goes out twice a year pulls plugs ssquirts in some oil, turns it over a couple of turns, plugs in and there it sits I have not gone there yet, just talked on phone

I asked him to get me numbers off of it, he called me back in this is what he gave me, on my voice mail

on the block 9EZ27M (For the M he said Mike, I asume M)

1707010 on a tag by the distributor

then he gave me
9EZK12A ( He said 92EZ King 12 Able)

Can you help, tell me what it is (Hoping its a 200 for our Mustang
Can buy between 100/150.00
What do you think go for it or Pass?

Thanks

Tim
 
I think he's missing a "C" or "D" at the front of those sequences beginning with nine. Distributor tag is just the item code.

Get him to look for the codes with 6049 on them (head/intake) and 6015 (side of block).

It could be a 300... Find out if the manifold is integral.
 
I called him,
he says thats the only numbers he saw on block (he sounds pretty old but I know sounds can be decieving) He said tomorrow he will go out in better light and look again, I also said look at manifold/head area for something

Tim
 
If it is a 200 there is a number on top of the intake manifold log. My engine is from an '78 Ford and the number on the manifold is D7BE 6090 AB
The number on the block is right below the middle exhaust ports, mine is D8BE 6015 GC
Look for those types of numbers, I think the 250 is similar. I don't think Mavs had stock 300 engines, but if the intake manifold is separate from the head it could be a 300 or other.
 
He called me back again

The only numbers on intake (That he could find)

6080A also 9EZ9

Now he states it was factory rebuilt/so I do not know if it was Ford warranty rebuild, would it be marked differently?

The man seems very competent, it seems these plus the other numbers mentioned previously are all there is, he claims he really checked it out

Whats next, what should I do?
Tim[/i][/b]
 
Whats next, what should I do?
Judging by recent past events here, you should give him a hug. :P :lol:

More seriously, if it looks like a 200, it probably is... Why not go look, with the full intention of making an offer to buy?
 
Ok do not shoot me but I have been a Chevy man throughout my earlier years, could Id products from this marquee with great regularity.....Had Camaros Vettes, Impala SS and several nice trucks.

Ford wise I have had apreciation of many but no real experience
I have hade 2 f250 pickups which were drive and go, a courier pick up which was crap, and a 79 Mustang pace car, and a 79 Bronco, Oh a 69 Torino as well (Gosh I have had a few Fords in the past after all).........

Really am just learning on this Mustang and Ford six stuff as I go on this car.

So as a novice Yes I will go look with intent to buy, but How will I distinguish upon looking at it if it is 170, 200, or 250?

I know the 250 is a little taller but if nothing is near for comparison will it be obvious? As far as 170/200 is there any visual differences?

And yes recent events have really been rough through it all, but I have no choice than to face each day new an d keep plugging along!

Tim
 
Five freeze plugs and intergral intake = 200 or 250.

Three bolts on the waterpump = 200
Four = 250.

200 has one or two different bolt patterns for the bell housing. The 250 and early eighties 200s have the same bell housing as a small block Ford.
 
it seems he's just looking for tags. the number you want is cast on the block and head. use the cast numbers with the info given as far as 200 or 250 and you'll be set 8)
 
The starter will block viewing the complete number. As addo stated, there is a missing letter which designates the decade.
 
Well the news seems posative
I talked to the man this evening, he checked and the water pump is 3 bolts, So if this is truly an indicator looks like I will have myself another 200.

We talked further about it being factory rebuilt. Seems the maverick was the nieces of a Harrisburg PA car dealer, what ever went wrong they redid the motor all under Ford warranty (Now I do not know if that means dealer redid or does it go to Ford or do they sub it out)
I am thinking that since it was dealers family, maybe it was done proper and good.......no way of knowing

Anyway shortly after getting the car back together, the niece wanted a different vehicle something newer and shinier than her first car, The car went for sale, this guy bought the Maverick to be an economical car......He put 7000 miles on it the car was in his driveway and a storm blew a tree down on it and trashed it. He pulled the engine and put t in his shed as it was a good fresh engine and there it has been the last couple of years......as previously mentioned he goes out a couple times a year freshly oils and turns it over .

That is the story or so it is told. As stated I will pull pan (and maybe? Head ) and check it out If it looks good I will run it if not I will rebuild it while the Mustang is still running (sort of) with the current engine.

His wife is terminally ill and tomorrow they are tied up so if our schedules work I am going to go get it Wed.

Any other advice things I should look for or at? Have not settled on price but it will be between 100 and 150.00

Tim
 
Have not settled on price but it will be between 100 and 150.00

For that, he ought to help you huck it into the back of your truck. You're doing him a favor. Then you can chortle secretly on the way home.



Hey if it's good, it's a steal. If it needs work, you still got about 1K to go before you hit the price of a re-man long block.
 
You stated that he turns it over. Does he have it mounted on a stand. If so, run a good compression test and check out the data. Make sure you remove all of the plugs before doing this. If this checks out, you can go with an install and check the vacuum which will give you good info on the condition of the valves. One concern is that the valve seals might be dried up but you can always pull the head later and do a complete valve job.
 
OK I did take the engine, hope I did Ok

Block C8DE 6015A

On intake

D00E 6090A or D0DE 6090A The third character was not well defined so I could not be certain if it was 0 or D

So with all of the numbers thrown around
What did I buy (Ithink 2oo) and do we know year
and will my bellhousing and everything from my 67 interchange as well?

Tim
 
Probably a score as long as it isn't trashed inside.

Pull the pan, pressure wash it out, flip it over and leakdown test it.
 
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