Distributor question

[Anonymous]

I have been reading posts that are saying if you change cars on a 200 that had an 1100 carb you need to swap distributors. I installed a Carter YF on my 65 200 and it originally had an 1100 on it. Do I need a later year distributor?

Also, I have had a problem with the 4,5,& 6 cylinder being too rich. I pulled the plugs and find $,% & 6 are wet and 1,2 & 3 are dry. Could this be caused by the advnce not working properly?

Thanks

Mike

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Turndm:

No, you do not need to change your distributor from your stock "Load-a-matic", vacuum advance only distributor. Know that the Autolite 1100 carb had a feature called a "Spark Control Valve" modifies the vacuum signal to the vacuum advance cannister. It was kind of a fore runner of a true ported vacuum signal. The Load-a-matic vacuum advance will not work as designed without this SCV feature, but you can still use it. I would try both hooking the vacuum hose to the ported vacuum source high on the YF, as well as a full manifold vacuum source and see which works best.

Your engine will run better with a '68 or later later distributor with both centrifugal and vacuum advance.

It is very unlikely that the distributor caused the bifricated plug readings. Clean the plugs and check it again.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks David - I believe I have figured out what is causing the plug problem - after the car has been sitting when you start it up there is a puff of smoke that blows out and then there is no more. I believe the carb is leaking down and the fuel runs to that end of the engine because the engine leans that direction. Is this a likely scenario?

Thanks

Mike

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back Turndm:

That sounds like a very likely possibility. Check and reset you float level and your needle and seat condition. It may be time for a rebuild kit.

I meant to ask you in my last post, where is you distributor vacuum hose connected now?

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

The carb is almost new - only about 8 months after purchase from O'reily's and only about 1200 miles on it. The vacume hose is located on the lowest point on the side of the throat of the carb.

Am thinking about installing a central fuel injection - haven't had anything but problems from carb . Gets good mileage and good power but can't seem to stop leaks. It's my son's daily driver to college and back so don't want to have him flaming down the road one day.

Anyway - if you have any other info I'd appreciate it. I'm gonna check the float and seat anyway and will let you know if anything changes. He doesn't get home until Thursday night.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Anonymous]

David,

In your first reply you said to try hooking the vacuum hose high up on the ported vacuum as well as to a full manifold vacuum source - what would constitute a full manifold vacuum source?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Turndm:

It sounds like you are using a full manifold vacuum source. Below the venturi, the narrowest throat inside the carb, is full vacuum, at or above the venturi is ported vacuum. If you have your initial advance set at 12 to 14 degrees, you may find that full vacuum is too much, particularly at transitions. Either try a ported source, reduce initial, or try higher octane gas to elininate knock.

I have very little confidence in new/rebuilt carbs. It is not unusual to disassemble a new/rebuilt and find anything from crud in the bottom of the bowl to misaligned gaskets. It is a good idea to disassemble, inspect and recheck all specs before installing. Leaks may be misaligned gaskets or warped parts. Accelerator pump and needle seats are usually the 1st peices to show problems. Getting and keeping an automatic choke right is probably next problem area. It is not unusual to rebuild a stick tranny, one barrel every year.

Adios, David