Do I need to find a new block when I get to doing a rebuild?

[65fback]

I just couldn't stand it anymore, introduced the car to 'spring' (albeit with snow still in the yard).

I'm not ready to crack open the engine. I figure this year is pretty much going to be spent on safety improvements. But I do want to at least start planning and assembling parts as they present themselves - subject to budget constraints of course.

The engine in my car is not the original one. It does have a tag affixed to it by the rebuilders. As I posted last year it was really hard to read it, but I just took another look. One of the fields I can make out bo - and then its unreadable after that. I'm assuming that's bore. The value stamped next to the label is 040. From what I've read in the falcon six handbook, that's the max, right?

 

[CoupeBoy]

Yes, any more than that and you want to get your block sonic checked for wall thickness and possible bore shift from the factory.

 

[bmcgc1960]

I see complete 200's for sale all the time for very little money.

Thats the route I would go.

 

[65fback]

Yeah, but not so many in the northeast. There's one on ebay right now for $300 out of a fairmont wagon (they have it listed seperately at $250 on their website). Plus $50 shipping. It's all the way out in Washington or Oregon IIRC. I figure if I've got to replace the block might as well get a late model one and get the later bellhousing along with the better head....

 

[First Fox]

Could always pop the head off and take a look. If there is no ridge, you can just hit it with a berry hone and re-ring what you have. Some fresh bearings, a gasket set, a nice cam and maybe have the head/valves checked out and you are in business.

If it was rebuilt properly and it doesn't have a ton of miles on it, a re-ring is a great way to go unless you are building a max performance engine. There is really no need to bore and hone or look for a replacement for a bread and butter daily driver, unless there is a problem.

 

[65fback]

That's just it. I have no idea how many miles are on the rebuild. The rebuild is at least from the 90s, if not before then. The history of the car as far as I know it goes back to the 90s when 2 owners ago bought it as a restoration project they could do with his son. Son wasn't interested so car stayed in storage until last winter.

I guess no way to know for sure until I pull the head off. The head gasket needs to be replaced anyways, as does the exhaust manifold gasket. But if I'm going to do that might as well drop a large log head in at that time. etc. etc.

 

[First Fox]

With that kind of history, I would think it wouldn't have many miles on it at all. If it were a taxi cab, or daily driver that was rebuilt in the 90's, different story. Like you said, you wont know till you pop the head. Swapping a large log head on it may not be worth the trouble. If it has a small log on it now and it is in good shape, it may be better to keep it in place. The large log heads have big chambers, and without a piston swap or serious machining, you would lose compression and actually be behind the game. AND the existing head is already paid for.

Whats the deal with the head gasket though? THAT may be cause for a concern, as if it were detonated heavily enough to pop a gasket, there may be other problems that may be expensive to fix.

 

[65fback]

The head has a small amount of oil seepage. At least I think it's oil.... The antifreeze hasn't looked punky and the oil hasn't looked punky when I changed it.

 

[bubba22349]

You should do a compression check first and an oil pressure test, then you will have some idea of it's condition.

 

[65fback]

Yep, I think I'll be doing that this weekend (providing the heavens don't open up and bless my land with more snow).