Driving compaired to old cam 250 2V.

[Anonymous]

I gave it a good blast up and down the highway from a rolling start a number of times to 4500-4700 rpm .
Definitley lost some torque and smoothness both most noticable under about 2200, but when it comes on cam it goes hard (will put back in seat). Doesnt feel nearly as restrictive past 4000 as it did with old cam, in fact I was surprised how easily it seemed to cope with going to 4700 rpm.
Seems a little hesitant (fluctuates)and reluctant to get it going under 2200 I think because of intake velocity. Perhaps I need to make some adjustments to my carb (got 71 jets maybe need to go back to my 74s, anyone?).
In summary, Im very happy with it, not too much, just right, Cheers.

 

[TCSTEVE]

Good one Tim hope you enjoy it!
Now i'm really curious on the power your 2V set up might be?
Did the power go up through the whole rev range or just past the 4500 mark?
Go the 2V Corty Thanks Steve.

 

[Anonymous]

TC Steve
I done a bit of fine tuning since then and it is now much smoother than it was (had trouble with elect dizzy cap clip hitting block).
My purpose with the cam was just to improve 0-100 kph times and I am going out after work tonight to see what it will do. Old cam times were 8.42 sec but to go to 100 kph I had to pull third gear because my old cam would not pull 4800 without running out off puff.
This time Im hoping to hit 100 kph at about 4800 rpm in second gear. Last night I reved it to 4800 in second just to make sure that 4800 would take me to 100 kph and I noticed that the power seemed to drop off sharply (like niagra falls) just before I hit 4800-900 and 100kph which was a bit dissapointing.
Ill have a better idea after tonight. If I get in the low sevens Ill be happy with that. I am a bit sceptical as I have lost a bit of power low down. Might actually be better over quarter as the quarter holds high revs longer.

 

[Anonymous]

What a mess. Ill have to take this and get it tuned or get someone to explain how to set my timing up properly (dont know how to use a light).
0-100 kph in about 9.5 seconds "thats right" I was not pleased. I went home and pulled out the dizzy put it back the way the mechanic had set it up with the clip hitting the block (which I suspect may still be a bit out). I then replaced the 71 jets for 74s and noticed when I did that the choke butterfly had slipped on the cable and was closed a bit. I corrected this and got a time of 7.69 and 7.66. Still not as good as I would have liked but better than my old cam time of 8.42.
It occured to me latter that this is a notoriously bad way of determining power as even a very slight variable can drastically effect the outcome. For example I think its taking me at least a second to change gears which is fast but way too slow compaired to an expert who may do it in a fraction of a second. Also, I take off with the rpm at 1500 or less (to go easy on the clutch) and then floor it, this is not the correct way either.
All I know is that it feels very fast, much faster than I am capable of driving it (or really wish to). (I also did my wifes 3.5ltr Magna auto with a handbrake takeoff, did it in 8.5)
If I was to practice more (which I will not) I think Id be able to get very close to 7.0 sec.

TC Steve
Sorry I could not be of more help with a power estimate. But in answer to your other question it has a good even spread of power right up to around 5000 with "slight" low end loss. Im not sure how much you know, but cam selection is often a compromise (you lose low rpm power to gain up high in rpm). Its often worth doing (for more power & better times) so long as you dont lose too much down low as more $$$ are then needed for other changes.
If I had been aware I had clearance for more lift I would have used more lift and consequently a bit more cam and a bit wider LSA. Still all things considered I am pleased with it, may still have to iron out some bugs yet.
Best of luck
Keen to hear on your progress.
Cheers Tim

 

[Anonymous]

If you are confident you can recognise the sound of detonation (a light rattle "ting, ting" a bit like the sound of a butter knife against a beer glass in rapid succesion, about 2 to 3 tings per second) then you can use this backyard timing method.

In a car that starts and runs that has electronic ignition, you can set your timing without any special tools this way :

Take the dizzy cap off.

Disconnect the centre lead that goes to the cap from the coil, at the coil

Have someone turn the motor over by the starter and observe which way the rotor button spins, clockwise or anti-clockwise?

Put the cap and lead back on.

To advance the timing you turn the distributor body against the direction of rotation of the rotor button (you need a half inch spanner to open the nut at the base of the dizzy)

advance it a little, 5mm. Then give it a bootfull up a hill in 3rd. if it 'tings' back it off in the direction of rotaion. If it doesnt, advance it another 5mm and so on. DO NOT LET IT 'TING' FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME. IF YOU HEAR IT BACK RIGHT OFF THE THROTTLE. IT WILL STOP.

You will notice a lot more bottom end power with the timing advanced. Cooler air to your air cleaner will let you run more advance.

Unlike air-cooled motors, water cooled motors should be timed to be right on the edge of max timing without pinging. Thats what engine management with a knock sensor does.

Ideally you get a shop with a dizzygraph and a dyno to set up your distributor so it runs at this ideal advance all the way through the rev range. Will be the best 150 bucks you ever spent. Good ignition timing is just as important as the right amount of fuel.

Dom

 

[TCSTEVE]

Hey Tim. Yeah that info helps a bit as i'm still finding out prices on the motor then killing myself picking a cam. I'm aiming for 200 HP hopefully a little more but want it to pull off the line as i'm running 2.92 gears and its a daily so it will only do the Quater a few times and only go back after further mods. Seems like your times improved a bit probally would be better revving it out over he 1/4 mile to really test it out.
What electronic dizzy are you using? I was thinking of going an XE/XF one and running a big coil and leads.
It sounds like you might wanna change your diff gears? I'll keep you posted on the 2V i'm getting the front end rebuilt Thurs Yeah!

 

[Anonymous]

TC Steve
I dont know what latter model my dizzy is off. I had to change all the leads anyway when i installed it. You might be able to go more cam and change the diff latter. Maybe around .220 on inlet and more on exhaust with a wider LSA to help it off the mark, most are around 450 460 lift with around this duration. you might be able to get a special grind with more lift but you would not be able to go much more lift without running into trouble anyway so Id stick with whats on offer and save a buck. Dont forget springs etc.
My 4 speed maual bw had three leaks after I gave it a hard drive the other day. Seems to be OK now, i think I may have had too much oil in it, not allowing for the fact that much of it stays in when its drained and have to allow something for this when re-filling. I guessed it and took out about 400mls.
Tim

 

[TCSTEVE]

Hey 2VTim. 4 speed manual sounds fun! do you get good traction?
What clutch and tyres are you using? I'm interested cause i'm going manual I have to cant stand Autos and was risking using a standard clutch as i got a brand newie for nothing off a mate. So i could kill it then look for a better one maybe?? we will have to wait and see.
Also i'm sticking with the 2.92 diff already got an LSD sorted and will be running 15 inch rims all round with 225/50/15 tyres on the rear should be plenty me think!!

 

[Anonymous]

Im still using my standard clutch as it did not have much wear on it and am keeping my 302W HD clutch for latter. It seems fine, Im just carefull not to abuse it.
Ive got hotwires and re-treds on the rear. If im not careful they hit the body at front and rear due to my car being lowered an inch.

 

[TCSTEVE]

What size wheels and tyres do you have on it though?
I had 235/65/14 on 7 inch wide rims on the rear of my TC and they touched on the outsides and that had dodgy cut springs and sat pretty low.

 

[Anonymous]

TC Steve
Im not sure I think they area 14s with as low a profile as i could find at reasonable cost (about f60 and b65 in think?). 7 and a half to 8 inches from memory (too wide for front with lowered). Needs more travel, Rides like an armoured tank.

 

[Anonymous]

Still got a bit of a starting problem with mine that no one seems to be able to fix even with new battery, reco starter (had out and back three times) and reco alternator.
And also when I put the engine back in recently I found the bracket that holds the steering down to crossmember on one side was loose with one bolt stripped (this was dangerous). Rather than take the engine out i drill a hole right through the crossmenber and put a high tensile bolt through it.
No wonder my car was impossible to align with new tyres.
Budget for a few unseen extras they always seem to occur.

 

[TCSTEVE]

Tim have you brought it to a auto electricion? Any problems i've had with starting have been battery or starter if its not that it might need a new resistor or coil or something. The electronics of a car including cortinas suck i hate dealing with any part of them, keep at it :roll:

 

[Anonymous]

Yes i took it to auto electrician last night and he said it was a timing problem (someone had assured me that timing would not cause slow starting)
I spent another hour trying to put the elect dizzy in a possition so that I could adjust it both ways without clips hitting block.
I then tried the method Dom bilbie recommended and it did ping badly from about three to 4000 rpm. Im not sure if this was because of detonation or becuase my alternator bolt had come out and was hitting my plastic fan. By the time I pulled into my driveway it was sounding like a machine gun. (God save us from Amaters like me)

 

[TCSTEVE]

Takes one to know one!!
Learning is the best thing with cars especially when you fix something and save urself some money or gain some power etc.
I'm considering my lsd still its $1300 for a factory AU XR unit modified to 25 spline fitted with all new bearings seals and gaskets etc sounds a little rich might try to find a 2nd hand one. What do you rekon?

 

[DYNOED250]

the slow cranking can be caused by being over advanced , and its trying to fire against the starter motor.....

it will only ping under load....... if it pings around 3-4 grand, but not down low you can simply run a higher tensionc spring, or stop the mechanical advance earlier threough its ark...... take it to an auto elec, who specialies in stopeing dizzys...

 

[Anonymous]

TC Steve
Im probably not the best person to advise on diffs. But I Have a mechanic mate who doesnt like LSDs much because he says they can flick a car around quite savagely if they do lose traction especially in the wet. Also the way I undestand it, power goes to both wheels even if its not lsd so long as one wheel is not spinning, may be better not to lose traction and be careful.
As far as a better diff ratio I wouldnt mind someone advising on the cheapest way to do this myself. Execute said can use a hi-lux diff but might be a few mods involved in that Im not prepared to take on yet
Cheers Tim..

 

[DYNOED250]

get youre self a 4 cylnder cortina diff.... now the botom and top of the diff should not be flat , you want one that looks the same as youres ++++ remember that te- cortina diffs are different shocker mountings than tc... these diffs will either have 3.5's or 3.7's all you need to do is change the pinion yoke to youre yoke.... and away you go lots of skids