Duraspark II wiring question

[Mac]

For 1965 200 /w C4 tranny. Installed new 12V coil, DurasparkII dizzy and ignition module and in the testing process, Im lost. I can get the starter to engage in START, but theres no voltage at the coil in RUN. Here's a 65 wiring diagram that shows what Ive done so far. Disconnected the pink resistor wire (16A) from red/blue wire. Its wasnt connected to red/green (16) as shown in the diagram. So what would I plug into (16), which has no connection in sight, but disappears into a cast loom of wires? Im using the mustangsteve duraspark conversion diagram as a guide. See link :
http://www.mustangsteve.com/conversion.html

 

[Anonymous]

I dunno if this will help... I'm a bit confused by your diagram. If I'm reading it correctly, the loose end you have labeled with "???" needs to receive 12v from a switched source... if not, the engine won't start.

I didn't try to use the stock wiring. I ran new wires from the solenoid. I used the #16 wire to trigger my relay. Here's a diagram of what I did:

 

[66 E100 Pickup]

ditto on Bengoshi's method. I used his diagram, order a $5 relay from Allied, and it's been going great for a couple months.

John

 

[mugsy]

When I did mine I spliced in the wire labeled as 16 in the passenger compartment. I took the IC out to get access to the wire harness on the back of the ign. switch. Routed the wire out to the (+) side of the coil.

I also think that the ignition switch routes power around the resistance wire only during cranking. If thats the case then you'll have to make sure the coil is getting power during cranking. Check the wiring diagram in the FSM.

tanx,
Mugsy

 

[Mac]

I know the wire labelled ??? should connect into (16) red/green now, for ignition. Problem moves to red/blue wire.

Red/blue wire (32) is start only. I have located the end of the red/blue wire which connects into the ingnition switch, but there is no continuity from the end of the bullet connector of blue/red bullet connector to opposite end of wire connector at the starter relay "S" terminal.

Red/Blue wire (32) includes the Starter Neutral Switch in the circuit, which contains two black wires and two red/blue wires. There is no continuity on the red/blue connectors of the SNS pigtails when I check it with a multimeter. Shouldnt there be?? See image of where Im testing continuity.

 

[Anonymous]

Mac, I just went through this two days ago. I had to have my buddy, who is a heck of a lot more intelligent than I am with electrical stuff, walk me through how to hook it up over the phone. Here's the deal, I was having the same problem. Starter engaged and engine ran in start position, but died as soon as I let the key go and it went to run.

The red wire that is coming out of the ignition switch that you disconnected the pink wire from is the one you need. Run a wire from that red wire to the + side of the coil and your car will run again.

Hope this helps.

 

[Mac]

Thanks HS65, Ive got that part covered about the extra wire. There is a Starter Neutral Switch that in in the middle of the START circuit. If I include the switch in the circuit, I get a 'no crank' situation. If I take the switch out of the START circuit, I get a crank. Of course I would rather keep the switch in the circuit so that the car cant be accidently started in gear or reverse.