All Small Six Wire connection Duraspark II

[adobejoe]

Engine running much smoother, carb set well and drove around the block. Think it just needed to wake up! Running on load a matic and Autolite 1101 Thinking my remanufactured advanced distributer should be here any day. I am close to putting the gauge panel back in place but thinking I should get the wiring right on my electronic ignition harness. My ignition switch seems to have five wires coming out. Yellow, pink (or red), another pink (or red), black w/ green stripe and black. Attached is a couple pics. From what I can tell with the mustang Steve printout I have four wires (after plug connection fitted). The yellow would go to a tachometer. The red goes to + on coil, or can connect on engine side of firewall, maybe splice near firewall plug.? white goes to “S” terminal of starter relay. Brown I am at a loss as to where it goes.
I have two diagrams. The mustang Steve diagram and this that came with harness

 

[wsa111]

Engine running much smoother, carb set well and drove around the block. Think it just needed to wake up! Running on load a matic and Autolite 1101 Thinking my remanufactured advanced distributer should be here any day. I am close to putting the gauge panel back in place but thinking I should get the wiring right on my electronic ignition harness. My ignition switch seems to have five wires coming out. Yellow, pink (or red), another pink (or red), black w/ green stripe and black. Attached is a couple pics. From what I can tell with the mustang Steve printout I have four wires (after plug connection fitted). The yellow would go to a tachometer. The red goes to + on coil, or can connect on engine side of firewall, maybe splice near firewall plug.? white goes to “S” terminal of starter relay. Brown I am at a loss as to where it goes.
I have two diagrams. The mustang Steve diagram and this that came with harness

You should have checked on the forums for sale section on small six for sale.
I have several options which will be custom curved for your combo. Bill wsa111
Message me or email me at billythedistributorman@live.com

 

[adobejoe]

Too late now billy. have one coming

 

[John Ha]

Engine running much smoother, carb set well and drove around the block. Think it just needed to wake up! Running on load a matic and Autolite 1101 Thinking my remanufactured advanced distributer should be here any day. I am close to putting the gauge panel back in place but thinking I should get the wiring right on my electronic ignition harness. My ignition switch seems to have five wires coming out. Yellow, pink (or red), another pink (or red), black w/ green stripe and black. Attached is a couple pics. From what I can tell with the mustang Steve printout I have four wires (after plug connection fitted). The yellow would go to a tachometer. The red goes to + on coil, or can connect on engine side of firewall, maybe splice near firewall plug.? white goes to “S” terminal of starter relay. Brown I am at a loss as to where it goes.
I have two diagrams. The mustang Steve diagram and this that came with harness

brown should go to the I terminal on the solenoid. It will supply a full 12V to the coil + terminal during cranking. If you're using a stock coil you will need to have the red/green wire from the firewall connector supplying power to the coil (but not to the Duraspark box red wire).

The MustangSteve diagram assumes you have a "high performance" coil that does not require a ballast resistor. There's a resistor wire under the dash that serves as a ballast in most of the early Fords. It lives between the +12 coming from the ignition switch and the red/green wire coming out of the firewall.

 

[Frank]

Replace the stock coil with one intended for "electronic ignition", which means it's set up to withstand full 12V power., then use a full 12V power source to it. Otherwise the benefit of hotter spark by doing the conversion is lost. For example:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/blue-streak/ignition---tune-up/ignition-coil/bcbc445c20d7/standard-blue-streak-ignition-coil/std2/fd476/v/a/5279/automotive-truck-1979-ford-f-100?pos=0

I'm using this coil on a DS2 conversion on a 300. Works well.

(PS- this particular coil does not have screw-on connectors, requires fabricating or using this plug. I'm using the plug.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/ignition---tune-up/ignition-coil/bcbc445c20d7/standard-ignition-2-terminal-multi-purpose-connector/std0/s583/v/a/5279/automotive-truck-1979-ford-f-100?pos=5

 

[John Ha]

Replace the stock coil with one intended for "electronic ignition", which means it's set up to withstand full 12V power., then use a full 12V power source to it. Otherwise the benefit of hotter spark by doing the conversion is lost. For example:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/blue-streak/ignition---tune-up/ignition-coil/bcbc445c20d7/standard-blue-streak-ignition-coil/std2/fd476/v/a/5279/automotive-truck-1979-ford-f-100?pos=0

I'm using this coil on a DS2 conversion on a 300. Works well.

(PS- this particular coil does not have screw-on connectors, requires fabricating or using this plug. I'm using the plug.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/ignition---tune-up/ignition-coil/bcbc445c20d7/standard-ignition-2-terminal-multi-purpose-connector/std0/s583/v/a/5279/automotive-truck-1979-ford-f-100?pos=5

I agree with the coil recommendation but feel the need to clarify: The application note for this coil @Frank references states that it is appropriate for (among others) a 1975 Maverick/Mustang/... . Those cars came from the factory with the pink resistor wire in the coil positive supply circuit. This means that this coil does require a ballast resistor (if your vehicle does not have the pink wire in that circuit) and that it could be damaged if a full 12V is applied to the positive terminal. This, in turn, means that you still need to find a +12 source for the Duraspark box red wire.

 

[wsa111]

Too late now billy. have one coming

But it is not curved for your engine. Return it. If you send it to me i charge $145.00 + shipping back to you.

 

[PSIG]

@adobejoe - perhaps this clip from the Ford manuals may help. It has the connector info for DS-II and color references for all three types - Solid State (green grommet), Federal Emissions DS-II (blue grommet) and high-energy DS-I (red grommet). While sending your distributor out for re-curving is easier and it should be closer to optimal; with some effort you can do it on your engine with timing tape (degree markings), a timing light and a hand vacuum pump, if you're strapped or time-limited. Yeah, the way hot rodders used to do it for best results with your engine and your fuel in your conditions.

And a layout image from Ford for reference:

I have lots more info on the DuraSpark series if needed. Good luck!

 

[wsa111]

@adobejoe - perhaps this clip from the Ford manuals may help. It has the connector info for DS-II and color references for all three types - Solid State (green grommet), Federal Emissions DS-II (blue grommet) and high-energy DS-I (red grommet). While sending your distributor out for re-curving is easier and it should be closer to optimal; with some effort you can do it on your engine with timing tape (degree markings), a timing light and a hand vacuum pump, if you're strapped or time-limited. Yeah, the way hot rodders used to do it for best results with your engine and your fuel in your conditions.

And a layout image from Ford for reference:

I have lots more info on the DuraSpark series if needed. Good luck!

How does the owner know what to curve his distributor?
If he does, what would take him 2 days to do, i can do it in less than several hours.
Another factor, the small six crankshaft damper if old can rotate on the hub.

 

[adobejoe]

PSIG. Thank you very much!,