Electric fuel Pumps

[Anonymous]

What's the scoop on using an electric fuel pump? As previously mentioned, The fuel pump on my 4.1 has a return line output on it and I have no return line to the tank on my Comet. Would an electric fuel pump be a good solution? Are certain brands worth mentioning? At what presure should I run it and would I need a regulator of some sort? I'll be running the stock weber carby till I can find a good after market intake and Holley. Thanks for any input.
Dave

 

[addo]

I've got through a few puel fumps in recent times, and can only say "bite the bullet". Do it now, to spread your costs over a greater period if you plan to seriously upgrade the motor.

The money invested in a good pump, bypass regulator and return line installation, will be a breath of relief when you replace other parts of the motor. Don't go overboard on the pump capacity; just what you need plus a little. Any more is going to waste electricity and stress the pump as it strains against the regulator too often. Been there, done that.

I suspect that you can buy a return line kit for EFI Mustang swaps that should fit pretty close. Or, get some ¼" terne-coated copper plated steel tubing and bend your own. Tee it into the vapour line, or modify the pickup mounting plate (better). Neither is rocket science. A return system actually cools the pump a little, keeping fuel cooler too. If this matters in Sydney heat, it must matter in Texas.

For the gauge - it's essential to have one. The Summit 0-15 PSI fuel pressure gauge (liquid filled and cheap at about $17) has been an excellent reassuring device.

If I had to do another complete install, I'd use Cartman pump P4594, Russell or Aeroquip braided hose and "-6" fittings (as good as the Earl's I paid $200 for, but cheaper), the Summit gauge 800115, and the Aeromotive 13301 regulator (bypass type). Mount your pump on rubber isolator blocks or it'll drive you mad. A Ford trans mount is the poor man's isolator - just hang a mount bracket off one side and bolt the other to your frame.

Regards, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the reply Addo. It's been a long time since I've visited here. I'm out of town working and have been running non stop. Anyway, I think that's the ticket. Alright dang-it!, I'm running a return. I don't know why, but I've been trying to avoid it. What kind of pressure and volume am I looking for?

 

[xctasy]

No more than 3.5 psi, and the fuel pump is okay to 250 hp as it is. 250 hp is 26 US gallons per hour, and fuel supply normally is 8 times the maximum power rate. So if you've got 130 hp, 110 gals per hour is way more than enough at 3.5 psi.

Modern fuel pump theory is that lower pressures reduce vapour lock, especially with out high alcohol blends. The idea of fuel bleed back is to practice cool fuel handling. GM carbs were renown for hot fuel handling problems, and Ford learned form GM mistakes. It's why Ford had, when compared to the 70'sV8's, simply terrific realiablity and fuel economy with the 80's 4180 carbed 5.8 and 5.0 engines. The bouncing of the float at 6 psi creates minute artifical freashes in a Holley, which raises fuel consumption. In a an ADM or DG Weber, it creates damage , flooding, and very high fuel consumption.

Bleed back is a European Ford practice from the 2-bbl Solex and Weber equiped Cortina/Taunas/Capri/Escort/Granada emmissions cars of 1976 onwards. It resulted, with electronic ignition and higher gearing, in 20% fuel consumption increases in the 2.0 liter engines with Weber DGAS 32/36 carbs.

The carb in the Falcon is similar to the ADA and ADM's made for the Italian Fiat 131 and the French Chyrsler Centura C180. Borg Warner Australia, Ford and Chryslers' prefered transmission suplier, was the Weber agent in the 80's. Someone did an excellent marketing ploy, becasue it was found on all carb Falcon utes from early 1982 to March 1993. 11 years with few modifications.