Engine almost ready, have some questions

[Titleist16]

My engine is supposed to be ready on Wednesday and there are a few questions that I need answered.

1. The engine in my car now has a front sump pan and the 78 engine I rebuilt has a rear sump pan. Do I have to use the front sump pan?

2. What is the best kind of oil to use in a fresh engine? What is the best way to break in the engine, maintanance, etc.?

3. What are some good dual exhaust designs. I have a dual out Pacemaker header and want to run dual exhaust with Flowmaster 50's but I don't want the pipes coming out of the back. Where is a good place for them to exit?

4. What are some good plugs and wires to use?

5. The valve cover on the new engine has Power By Ford on it which I like and I was thinking of getting it chromed, any idea how much this might cost?

This is all for my 78 200 that is going into my 62 Comet. Thanks.

 

[S2261]

I just put a 1978 200 in my 1961 Comet. You have to use the Comet pan so it clears the stabilizer and cross brace. My engine shop recommended using a diesel rated oil. 10w30 weight. They said they use high quality pre lubes and did not want me to prime it. They also said start it and shut it off right away a few times. Don't let it get hot. It takes about 1 minute to get hot. Check for leaks etc... Vary the Rpm's for the first 500 or so. I only have about 75 miles on mine right now. I can't help you with the exhaust. Use good quality plugs and wires. Don't cheap out on ignition parts. I installed a Pertronix unit too.

 

[Anonymous]

1. Oil pan and oil pick up are a set, and must match the body style you are installing the engine in (you need the front sump)
2. I have always used NAPA straight 30 wt non detergent for 30 miuntes of cam break in, then "full throttle" piston ring break in, and then drained it and refilled with any normal 10W-30

3. depends on alot of things - - what do want it to sound like??? Loud or quiet??

4. I have always preferred Motorcraft/Autolite, and I like Taylor Spiro-Pro wires the best - - - but if you are mainly stock any good 8mm wire is fine.
Do you plan to do a duraspark upgrade anytime soon??

5. You are in HuntBeach, there has got to be plenty of chrome places around - check the yellow pages. I can give you Texas prices but don't know what they charge in Ca. Probably $40?? Just guessing...

 

[Mustang Boy]

1. need to use the stock one like said before

2. im using straight 40 weight in my mustang and it has quiet a few modds

3. if u want it to sound more aggressive i would do turn down pipes before the rear end but as close to the muffler as possible (that is my plam as soon as my T-5 is in and im using 40 series mufflers)

4. like said before dont go cheap on the ignition system but dont go over the top

5. not sure on the cost sorry but i would agree with LInc

 

[Anonymous]

Flowmasters under the car with dumps usually creates a fair amount of "drone" inside the car......I am not a fan of them.

What do you have against tailpipes??

 

[Titleist16]

I don't really have anything against tailpipes, it's just that I like the look of no tailpipes, it looks a lot cleaner. My tailpipe now also stains my bumper.

 

[Anonymous]

A good fitter can hide the pipes where they can't be seen, and dump down. (like the 88-93 mustang GT's)

Bumper stains aren't the pipe's fault...something else is wrong...

 

[KustomSkylark]

you could always run side pipes for that 70's appeal. Also you can find chrome valve covers on ebay for about 20 bucks but they don't have the powered by ford script on them.

 

[Anonymous]

you can find chrome valve covers on ebay for about 20 bucks

The ones I have looked at (imported from taiwan) are made from a very light gauge sheet steel - very flimsy - and also the chrome is very thin, gets dull easy (hard to keep shiny) and surface rust comes pretty quick.

I guess they come from the same place Custom Chrome gets their Harley parts done at.