Engine Buildup (my first post)

[Anonymous]

Hello everyone, I've been making use of the knowledge on this forum for a while now. It's really helped me with a few problems that I have had while working on my fairlane. Anyways, summer is near and I am about to return home from school and start work on my car. I am planning a pretty extensive rebuild and I just wanted to see if anyone who has used these parts has any comments on them or any suggestions in general would help a lot. I plan on rebuilding the C4 transmission with:
kevlar clutches
B&M transgo
high stall converter
26-spline input shaft (im afraid of breaking the original 24 and i have a spare later-year C4 i can take the shaft/pump/ect from)

then for engine modifications i plan on installing:
1983 mustang head milled apprx .065" (for CR of 9.5:1), 5 angle valve job, port divider
FSP full roller-rockers (and required oil-thru valve components)
FSP dual-coil springs w/teflon seals
FSP dual roller timing chain
FSP cam ARC-268-DH3
pacemaker dual 2" out header

and then for induction I was going to adapt the log to accept 2-holley 2 barrel carbs, each over the position where the 3 intake paths go into the head to get the most even induction
any comments are appreciated

 

[Anonymous]

welcome

sounds like a good plan (my novice opinion)
chaz

 

[cfmustang]

That does sound pretty good, although I thought I read on here somewhere that a 5 angle valve job provides no better flow than a three. I don't remember who wrote the post, but I am sure there is someone here who can comment.

If that is true though, I would avoid the extra cost and use the money elsewhere.

 

[wsa111]

welcome, you have the right componets to get the job done right.
the 5 angle valve job is a great improvement over the conventional 3 angle. the main thing is to blend the 45 degree angle from the seat in the head into the bowls. then do a 25-30 degree cut on the valves after you have lapped the valve in. take that cut right to the inner lap mark after lapping. the results will help at low to 1/3 valve opening positions. i have seen a 15-20 % in air flow on a flow bench. remember this improvement not only occurs at the opening of the valve but at the closing-a double benefit. remember to use good positive valve seals, other wise after a carbon build-up your gains will be lost.
this apply's to both valves intake & exhaust. best of luck william

 

[Anonymous]

I plan on rebuilding the C4 transmission with:
kevlar clutches
B&M transgo
high stall converter
26-spline input shaft (im afraid of breaking the original 24 and i have a spare later-year C4 i can take the shaft/pump/ect from)

A custom made high stall convertor in the 2200-2500 rpm range would be a nice addition as would the B&M shiftkit.

Kevlar clutches and the 26 spline input shaft would be overkill IMO.

A better idea would be to swap your 66 valve body to a 67-68-69-70 valve body so you get rid of the funky shift pattern (I'm assuming the tranny is a 66 judging by your signature)

You might want to check into Mikes "hi-po" balancer also!

Welcome to the forum!

Later,

Doug

 

[cfmustang]

I stand corrected...

 

[Anonymous]

ok, thanks guys. Does anyone know how about how much torque I could realistically expect from an engine like this?

 

[addo]

Just looking at your sig, I notice it's a 66 'lane. Any chance of rebuilding a 250 instead?