CZLN6":1wktz5a1 said:
Howdy Back Art:
If you're not going to be reboring you can skip the decking process to save some $$. I do think you should reconsider the expense of replacing the cam bearings though. "The bitterness of low quality lasts long after the sweetness of low price". You will likely get one shot at getting the block done right. Invest in it.
You're right. I guess I'll pay the machine shop to remove the bearings, hot tank it, and put new bearings in.
IIWY, I'd shoot for a CR in the 9 to 9.5:1, for a street driver. That would depend on your cam selection and chamber polishing efforts. Both the cam and chamber polishing will help to reduce pre-ignition due to lower cylinder pressures, elimination of hot spots and reduction of carbon build-up. Depending on your location and tune, it's likely that she can use regular 87 octane gas for three seasons out of the year. Along with the cam, I'd be investing in one of Mike's double roller cam timing sets.
We already have a Comp Cams double roller timing set that we bought quite some time ago for the other engine and didn't end up putting on. Which season will she not be able to use 87 octane?
We also have no idea specifically which cam we'll be using just yet. I only know the basics of what duration and lift mean in terms of power and where in the RPM range it's produced. Not enough to make an educated cam choice.
What is the elevation where you live? That's another factor in selecting CR.
On average, about 300-400 feet above sea level.
With a '78 head and a composite head gasket, you'd be looking at a mill cut of .075"- .025" for the difference in head gasket thicknesses and .050" to reduce the 62 cc chambers down to near 52cc. This will get your CR right at 9:1. That would be my recommendation. These heads can be safely milled up to about .090". Be sure to run a bottom tap down the head bolt holes to make sure they are clean and use hardened washer on each head bolt on assembly.
We'll actually be using CI's ARP head stud kit. I personally will put those on every engine I ever end up building. I don't have any interest in messing around with aligning bolt holes, and I've read studs are always a better choice in reliability - which is something that is extremely important to me.
For an economy build, I'd be looking for an Autolite 1101 (210 cfm), or a Carter RBS (215 cfm). both were 250 carbs with about 30 more CFM then your stock 1100 (185 cfm). I'd be planning to rebuild the upgrade carb myself for less than fifty buck for a carb kit and cleaning stuff. The 1101 will be close to a direct bolt on. The RBS will require slight adaptation and modification, but nothing as involve as adapting a 2 barrel. For a budget build neither the Pony carb or headers fit that description. Either will be your biggest expense!
We're not buying a new carb right off the bat, so I personally don't consider it part of the engine build. That'll be another large expense that she'll do when she can afford it - along with the long tube headers.
Assuming money were not an issue, what would be the best carb for this engine? We want a carb with some room for when we continue to upgrade the car. Eventually the car will be getting a 4cyl T5 with probably 3.27 or 3.55 gears to a Lincoln Mark VII (or Fox Mustang, depending on what we find at the time, but discs would be cool) 8.8". Ultimately we want long tube headers on the car with true dual exhaust. However, she's going to be driving the car for some time before any of that happens, since this is only the first step and it's upgraded as she can afford to do so. I was considering the Vaporizer but I was afraid it might not supply enough fuel/air when we're finally done with the engine, and if we hit the limit of the Vaporizer we don't want to have to buy another carburetor.
It'd also be really nice to have a carb that's easy to tune/adjust because I'm still trying to get used to carburetors. Despite owning five carbureted vehicles in the past couple years I'm still not used to getting them dead on. I'm dreading working with the Quadra-Jet on my El Camino.
For a budget build, I'd be upgrading the exhaust system with 2" exhaust pipe and a turbo type muffler. If the '67 exhaust manifold is in good shape- no cracks or broken ears, I'd clean it up and open it up, put a coat of high temp paint on it and live with it until after college and the money starts rolling in. LOL!!
For now, that's exactly the plan. I'm mentioning the long tubes now because I was taught that when building an engine every component must be taken into consideration so that they will all successfully work together. Sadly we don't have the money for the long tube header right now, but I do want to build the engine planning for such. Same with the carburetor.
What ignition/distributor will you be using?
The Duraspark II distributor that came with the motor, plus the 92D recurve kit. I haven't chosen a specific ignition box yet because I didn't think it mattered at the moment - though I'm open to any suggestions.
Thank you David. I'm sorry I took so long to reply. I've been busy and had forgotten to reply last time I read this thread.
