Engine runs rough under load after Pertronix install

[SF223]

My engine was running pretty well until I installed the Pertronix Ignitor 2 on the Ford 223.

Install went super smooth, replaced the coil with a Flame Thrower 2, new wires and new plugs.

Start up is quick, engine idles really nice around 550 rpm. Revving the engine in neutral produces a pretty even sound.

So here's the problem. When starting from a stop, somewhere in the low 1000's (I'm guessing around 1200 since I don't have a tachometer) the engine starts to stutter really bad and shakes sort of like someone just learning to drive a manual shift. I know my clutch is on the way out, but I didn't have these problems before and I can't imagine just changing out a coil and ignition would cause this much chatter. If I lay on the gas at this point, the engine will smooth out some where in the 2000's.

Thoroughly confused...

 

[80broncoman]

Maybe you have two plug wires switched?
Been there done that !

 

[SF223]

Well, I replaced each old wire with the new one at a time. I've gone and switched up wires before and was hell bent on not doing this time. I guess there's some bizarro way that I did it again, but why would the engine run smooth at idle/revv idle and stutter only in the mid rpm range?

 

[addo]

I'll have to preface my comments with the remark that I don't like the Pertronix. It will work beautifully, in an ideal situation. Trouble is, that ideal situation almost renders the P-I or P-II redundant! Board member steve should have been on a retainer from the company; he sorted out that many hassles with these unit installs.

One of two things is happening. Either you are running out of juice, or the advance - retard is malfunctioning.

•To check the advance mechanism, pop the cap, twist the unit to full advance, release and it should snap fully back instantly. There should be no uncertainty in it, or the mounting of the Inditor or the parts on the centre shaft. Look for play and if it exists, rationalise it.

•Electrical supply is more of a curly one. A digital voltmeter/ammeter to take readings while a friend "loads" up the motor with clutch/brake juggling and electrical accessories running. Look at your output in this loaded condition at the problematic RPMs.

Hopefully, this is a step in the right direction.

Regards, Adam.

 

[ludwig]

Make sure the wires coming out of the unit on the side of the distributor where the little dust boot is are not tight inside the diz itself and pulling on the little platform thingy that all the points and stuff are connected to so the advance is defeated by the wiring hookup.

 

[SF223]

I checked the advance mechanism during the install and the springs are good, plate snaps back nicely. The wires leading to the module didn't seem to interfere with the action, but I'll recheck again when I get home later on.

The voltage seems like a issue to look at. The pertronix troubleshooting section in the supplied materials say that the car won't start if a resistance wire or resistance block is on the ignition line. Since my car started and I haven't seen a wire out the ordinary under the dash or in the compartment, I discounted that as a problem. After reading what Steve had to offer in other threads, I'll check to make sure the coil is getting the full 12 volts.

 

[addo]

I'm not sure how it sits with electrical theory, but my experience has been that simple circuits like the Ignitors self-compensate up to a point. They are seeking a level of power input; if the volts are down, they seem to suck more amps in an attempt to make up the power. Try running your 12V off the battery positive, bypassing the ignition altogether. This will make shutting the motor down interesting!

A big problem these days with points is the manufacture is so shoddy! That certainly helps sell Ignitors.

Adam.

 

[Lazy JW]

A big problem these days with points is the manufacture is so shoddy! That certainly helps sell Ignitors.

Adam.[/quote]


Genuine Bosch points for VW's are still pretty good units. A little bit of good ol' Yankee ingenuity and they can be adapted to most applications.
A set of those and a Bosch Blue coil running on full voltage should keep any stock Ford six purring like a kitten.
Joe

 

[addo]

The Bosch we get here now is junk. They closed the local plant and went to imported - same packaging, just a flimsier part.

 

[SF223]

Spent a couple hours on the dizzy yesterday and have the car running nice and smooth through all rpm's.

The problem? Me making one of the stupidest mistakes of all time.

Just before installing the magnet ring, I peeled back the green tape. The instructions didn't say one way or another and I just assumed the tape was there for shipping. As I peeled it back past the first magnet, I realized those little suckers are loose in their housing. Magnet popped out but stuck the tape. I pushed the magnet back in and secured the tape.

Install, and car runs rough. Commence the days of brain wracking.

Yesterday while the engine was running in neutral, it stalls. Flip the starter several times, nothing. Let it sit thinking I flooded it. Restart, nothing. Pull the dizzy cap and found the tape came loose, throwing the magnets everywhere. The stock tape peeled just enough to grab the little red box, wrapping itself around until all magnets came loose. Spent the next few hours and several attempts realigning all magnets so the polarity matched. Used a magic clear tape in place of the green stock stuff (Much more sticky) and wound it in the opposite direction of the original as a safety precaution.

That's when I figured out that one frickin' magnet that popped a few days ago was out of polarity, causing a plug to not fire correctly. One idiotic mistake on my part = several days of stress.

Live and learn...

 

[Anonymous]

What Pertronix part number did you install on ur 223?

 

[SF223]

I believe it was the 91266. Should be the distributor with a soild shaft and a flat "notch".

I'm on my way out of town so I can't really check the old box. I'd suggest giving Pertronix a call, they're pretty helpful.

If you still need some info, I'll be back in about a week.