223 performance build...questions!

[bubba22349]

This particular thread is one of the reasons I joined the forum, I'm very impressed with a couple of your videos I caught on Youtube. Any updates since the last post?

I have a '62 Unibody pickup and still have the original 223 that I'm considering putting back in some time in the future. (Windsor V8 now)
Seeing the potential of the I6 has me wanting to give it a shot!

What is the journal size on the cranks of these 223's? My mind has wandered to a stroked version for a little more torque and driveablity.

I haven't seen a stoker build on these documented, maybe not worth the effort?

From what I see the 215-223 seems to share a lot of design characteristics with the Y block, are the bore spacings and head bolt patterns the same? Combustion Chambers, Rockers, lifters and other things seem to be identical.

I had a lot fun back in 1960's racing the 223's. Most of your questions on journal size and stroker combos can be found in this old post. viewtopic.php?f=18&t=73584&p=565393#p565318

Lots of strokers were built back in the day and it's easy and worth the effort if you don't mind spending some money on machining and a set of custom Pistons. The head also needs considerable porting work. The 223 and 262 big six share interchangeability with its forged steel crank it opens the door to many stroker combos. There are some parts from the Y Bocks that are interchangeable however the rocker arms are not, there were some high ratio rocker arms that were made back in the day (Barker) and sometimes you can still find some new sets. There is a company called Rocker Arms Unlimited (RAU.com) that can rebuild your stock ones and they also make custom higher ratio sets for some other engines so you might contact them to see what they can do for you. Best of luck on your 223 build.

 

[JackFish]

I have no use for these rocker arms and would love to see them go to a good home.
Not really looking to make money, any reasonable offer will fly.
Bubba says they're special "zero lash" rockers.

No idea what the ratio would be. :

 

[GalaxieInline]

Welp, my project got sidelined by a move...had to put it together in my kitchen. BUT, I got the compression fixed! I had the block milled another .055" to pop my pistons out .005" and took another .032" for a total of .062" off the head. This gave me roughly 62cc chambers and 9.9:1 compression. I converted from road draft draft PCV and got a jet kit for my carbs...immediately had to jump up 2 jet sizes! Here's a video of me letting it loose on a back road, 2nd gear to 70mph at 6000rpm.

Holds 50lbs oil pressure across the board and runs @ 195°. I ended up with a Davis HEI setup and .050" gapped plugs.

I'm very pleased with it now. I plan to build another 223 sometime soon with the supercharger when my garage is finished. The only thing I did different when reassembling is installing the cam straight up, I am going to remove the timing cover thus summer and bump it +4° like I did before which should gain me some low end and a poppier sound at idle.

 

[GalaxieInline]

This particular thread is one of the reasons I joined the forum, I'm very impressed with a couple of your videos I caught on Youtube. Any updates since the last post?

I have a '62 Unibody pickup and still have the original 223 that I'm considering putting back in some time in the future. (Windsor V8 now)
Seeing the potential of the I6 has me wanting to give it a shot!

What is the journal size on the cranks of these 223's? My mind has wandered to a stroked version for a little more torque and driveablity.

I haven't seen a stoker build on these documented, maybe not worth the effort?

From what I see the 215-223 seems to share a lot of design characteristics with the Y block, are the bore spacings and head bolt patterns the same? Combustion Chambers, Rockers, lifters and other things seem to be identical.

There are a lot of similarities in design to the Y block, but not everything. Rockers do NOT interchange, they are longer on the 223. My stock combustion chambers were around 67ccs. The timing chain is interchangeable and you will want and adjustable set so you can advance the cam 4°, I went with a roll master billitt. I couldn't tell you if the bore spacings are the same as a Y, someone else on here probably has that information.

When rebuilding your 223, make sure you use ARP studs on the bottom end. You will have to resize rod studs from another application. Don't make the mistake I did and go .060 over bore if you are wanting to use off the shelf pistons....chrome rings don't exist anymore for .060", and stockers are all but depleted since the major manufacturers stopped making 3/32" and 3/16" rings. I bought some of the last ones in the US Even Mummert is switching to a different size with custom pistons because of this.

 

[xctasy]

Bore spacings for all the Ohio built Cleveland Brook Park I blocks were the same as the Y block, 4.38". By coincedence, the very same as the Jeep and Kaiser/Wills OHC and OHV engines. Right when Robert L McNamara was recoilinh from thr Edsel distaster, Ford benefited from picking up the ex Hudson Packard engineer who did the Hudson in line flathead six. The Ford plant refit in sumber 1964 which brought the Big Six 240/300 cube engines in with the 4.48 bore spacing, yield an engine block which was apparently similar to the Hudson Hornet side valve block it was based on.

Its a matter of plant costs which forced Ford to make look at variable deck height engines in fixed bore spacing engine families (eventully with Fords Roy Lund in the Kent four cylinders, Dagneham England and again with Robert L McNamara who signed off on the 144/170 and eventually, 200 cube Ford sixes.

The inital plan ( canned in 1960) was for Ford USA to transfer and copy the Ford two stroke V6 block bore spacing. This was now West German "war payment" gift for Dearborn, for the Cologne V6 4.78 inch bore spacing tooling for the US V4 Cardinal. The planned 1961 Cardinal was ditched, but all the initial ohv US revolution for Ford started with those I block heads and engines in 1952 in the office of George Stirret. Ex GM.

The "I" 6's were Y block in design except for the partly siamesed ports where as the Y block had symetrical stacked ports and the angled Manifold lines.

The rocker variation was due to the changes in the Y block, the I block stayed true to its initail design brief.

The three part video on the then new Cleveland Engine Plant No 1 OHV six which kicked off the initially Mercury-Lincoln only Y block is here below.

The two year only 317 flathead Lincoln and truck "flattie" previewed the later 332/352/360/361/390/391/427/428 FE/FT 4.63 bore spacing, proving FoMoCos thrift.

For me, Ford pioneered re-using and re-scrambling the immense expense of machine machine tooling by keeping the bore centres between different engines. The retooling then becomes signifcantly easier.

It (Ford UK) did the exactly the same thing in the 1959 United Kingdom Kent and 1966 Essex 60 degree V4 and V6 plants. For the four cylinder in line engines, the 3.78 inch bore spacings were 1951 Ford Consul, basically an economic repitch from the 3.8125 inch outer spacings on the Flathead 136/221 English and French Poisey engines . This gave birth to 1951 to 1966 compact Counsul/Zephyr emgines, the 138/152 sixes, 92 and 101 fours, and then the super short stroke 957/1096/1116/1294/1495/1596 and related 1558 Lotus and iron and alloy BDA - BDT engines. All eight engines made on the same tooling.

The Essex 60 V4s and V6s were made from 1966 to 2000, the Cologne 60 degree V4 and V6 bore spacing with English retooled to suit a planned diesel version. Just like a Cleveland 351 is to a Windsor 302. Same concept, different execution in detail.

The 4.38 inch bore spacing I block 223/215/262's are quite special, the start of Henry Ford II's kingly whizz kid push into grey iron casting dominance after Cast Iron Sorenson enigmatic shoes left the company. The 1941 flat head 226 was a special change in policy from V8s to fighting GM and Chrysler and small auto maker in line sixes. IMHO, the I block was the foundation for the OHV Ford revoltion.

 

[GalaxieInline]

Bore spacings for all the Ohio built Cleveland Brook Park I blocks were the same as the Y block, 4.38". By coincedence, the very same as the Jeep and Kaiser/Wills OHC and OHV engines. Ford benefited from the ex Hudson Packard engineer who did the Hudsun in line flathead six. The Ford plant refit which brought the Big Six 240/300 cube engines in with the 4.48 bore spacing, was apparently similar to the Hudson Hornet side valve block it was based on.

Eventully with Roy Lund in Kents Dagneham England and Robert L McNamara with the inital plan ( canned in 1960) to copy the Ford two stroke V6 and now West German war payment for the Cologne V6 4.78 inch bore spacing tooling for the V4 Cardinal, all the initial ohv US revolution for Ford started with those I block heads and engines, which were Y block in design except for the partly siamesed ports where as the Y block had symetrical stacked ports and the angled Manifold lines. The three part video on the then new Cleveland Engine Plant No 1 OHV six which kicked off the initially MEL only Y block is here. The two year only 317 flathead Lincoln and truck "flattie" previewed the later 332/352/360/361/390/391/427/428 FE/FT 4.63 bore spacing. Ford pioneered re-using and re-scramblING the immense expense of machine machine tooling by keeping the bore centres between different engines. It did the exactly the same thing in the United Kingdom Kent and Essex plants, where the 3.78 inch bore spacings from the 3.8125 inch outer spacings on the Flathead 136/221 English and French Poisey engines was kept for the 138/152 sixes, 92 and 101 fours, and then the super short stroke 957/1294/1495/1596 and related 1558 Lotus and iron and alloy BDA - BDT engines. So the 223/215/262 are quite special, the start of Henry Ford II's kingly whizz kid push into grey iron casting dominance after Cast Iron Sorenson enigmatic shoes left the company. The flat head 226 was a special change in policy from V8s to fighting GM and Chrysler sixes. The I block was the foundation for the OHV revoltion.

Amazing information!

 

[bubba22349]

Glad to see you back GalxieInline, with an update on your 223 build. That is excellent that you were able to get your 223 six compression ratio up to 9.9 to 1 were it should of been. Can only imagine what a big deference that made, did you by chance get it Dyno'ed again on that same Dyno, when retuning for this new combo of changes? It would be interesting to see what a differance that almost 2 points in compression ratio and the retune did. Congratulations it sounds great too!

 

[bubba22349]

Thank you Xctasy, for posting that 223 info and the video's.

 

[Big six Farmer]

A lot of that can come down to whos Engine Dyno your racing on... The numbers can be way up and down from each other... I would not get too hung up on Dyno numbers.

 

['62 Susie Q]

Welp, my project got sidelined by a move...had to put it together in my kitchen. BUT, I got the compression fixed! I had the block milled another .055" to pop my pistons out .005" and took another .032" for a total of .062" off the head. This gave me roughly 62cc chambers and 9.9:1 compression. I converted from road draft draft PCV and got a jet kit for my carbs...immediately had to jump up 2 jet sizes! Here's a video of me letting it loose on a back road, 2nd gear to 70mph at 6000rpm.

Holds 50lbs oil pressure across the board and runs @ 195°. I ended up with a Davis HEI setup and .050" gapped plugs.

I'm very pleased with it now. I plan to build another 223 sometime soon with the supercharger when my garage is finished. The only thing I did different when reassembling is installing the cam straight up, I am going to remove the timing cover thus summer and bump it +4° like I did before which should gain me some low end and a poppier sound at idle.

GalaxieInline,

I'm a new member but I've been following your very detailed and informative saga on getting your 223 to 9.9:1. I will be setting off on a complete restoration of my signature truck this summer. I have Clifford's kit (headers, Weber x1, intake) in waiting for the engine rebuild. I'd be deeply grateful if you could summarize your experience and recommendations to prevent me from repeating some of your lessons learned. She runs pretty good for an old girl right now after I did some basic tune up work and rebuilt the Holley 1904. She has solid compression on each cylinder but signs are there that she's tired (lower than spec compression on #1 and #6). So, if have you time and I know its the most precious of commodities, I'm all "ears." Thanks! Bob H.

 

['62 Susie Q]

I had a lot fun back in 1960's racing the 223's. Most of your questions on journal size and stroker combos can be found in this old post. viewtopic.php?f=18&t=73584&p=565393#p565318

Lots of stokers have been built back in the day and it's easy and worth the effort if you don't mind spending some money on machining and a set of custom Pistons. The head also needs considerable porting work. The 223 and 262 big six share interchangeability with its forged steel crank it opens the door to many stroker combos. There are some parts from the Y Bocks that are interchangeable however the rocker arms are not, there were some high ratio rocker arms that were made back in the day (Barker) and sometimes you can still find some new sets. There is a company called Rocker Arms Unlimited (RAU.com) that can rebuild your stock ones and they also make custom higher ratio sets for some other engines so you might contact them to see what they can do for you. Best of luck on your 223 build.

Bubba,

Seems GalaxieInline is out enjoying his project's results. As I mentioned on my note to him, I'm looking to get a bit more juice out of my 223 when I start the restoration. To avoid some of the travails listed in this thread, starting from scratch with a tired but otherwise healthy motor, what machine work, parts and spec combo would get me to 9.9:1 compression? Thanks!
Bob H.

 

[bubba22349]

Hi Bob, there are severial ways you could get to the 9.9 to compression ratio. On GalaxieInline's 223 he said that he did it with the .060 over rebuilder cast pistons (Flat Tops) which he said made for some trouble in finding any good ring sets like Chrome (he also found the last set in the US that only leaves the cast rings in those .060 oversizes) then along lots of machining of the block deck. The orginal block deck cut we don't know exactly but considering how the first machinist didn't do what he asked to do (Zero Deck the Block) we will have to make an educated guess I would say he probally only did the minimum cut in the .002 to .010 range as these 223 block decks usally didn't warp much if any even when overheated numerious times. He just recently milled it .055 this time so maybe it's about .060 total with the piston now setting .005 proud above the blocks deck (instead of the Pistons previously being .050 down the hole). Then along with using a FelPro head gasket of Aprox. .050 crush thickness this ended up giving him a .045 quench distance and putting his 223 inside the sweet spot of .035 to .050 range for a normally aspirated NA engine. To save some time be sure to take a good measurement of how far the Pistons set down the hole of the #1 & #6 with them at TDC, then when it's apart measure the Pistons Compression Height CH (the center of the wrist pin to top of piston) often these rebuilder type piston have a shorter CH then a Standard Ford 223 piston dose. He also milled down the head .062 to get the combustion chambers down to 62 CC's.

Another way would be to use a custom forged piston in a Flat Top with a higher CH or even a Pop Up type and or a longer Conecting Rod such as the only slightly longer 215 rods. You could gain more lenght by using an oversize custom conecting Rod pin bushing and then have the rods rebuilt and machined so that they have the longest lenght you can possable get out of them, also install some ARP Rod bolts first before they are rebuilt. The crankshaft could also be offset ground for a little more stroke lenght.g I would need to know what your plan is on the parts you will be using like the head gasket chooice, and measurements of your block deck height from the piston top, piston chooice, the heads CC's, to be more accurate. Useing a custom forged piston also opens up other more modern ring packs. But if you plan to use the rebuilder cast Pistons or custom Pistons try not to bore the block out any farther than to just get a clean round bore hopefully it would end up at .020 to .030 over but if not you can get custom ring sets made but it's more costly. Best of luck on your 223 build up Robert

 

[Big six Farmer]

Bubba you might be the only guy around that knows that much about the old 223 six. Let alone having raced them... Its very impressive what you share here, Info. you just cant find... I had a 223 once in this 1960 Ford half ton. It was so wore out, it wasnt long before i swapped in a nice 302 V8 out of a T boned Granada. Kinda wish i still had that Truck.

 

[bubba22349]

LOL maybe! Well I guess those old 223 six's will always hold a special spot in my heart! I was in 2'nd grade and got to go with my dad to our local Ford dealer (El Monte, Calif.) to order a brand new 1956 F100 just like he wanted it for his construction bussness. Such excitement got to look at all those new cars and trucks, back then you could still order just what you wanted. He got the base regular cab short bed in the Light Blue, Cream White grill, Cream White wheels, Argent hub caps with the Ford lettering in Red, almost no chrome (only had the F100 hood emblems, the window cranks, inside & outside door handles) it had a sparse interior of a heavy rubber floor mat, Gray colored cardboard kick panels & matching Gray cardboard headliner, a Black / White checkered pattern seat cover with I think Red vinle bottom sides as well as across the front too. Came with that wonderful Milage Maker 223 Inline Six, a colum shifted 3 speed trans and it had the 3.89 rear axle gears. To that standard package he added a larger heavy duty Radiator, a heater with defroster, it had a spare tire mounted under the bed, a jack and lug wrench which might of been standard equipment, and he added to that the larger tires I think they we're the 6.70 X 15's. No other extras like a rear bumper, outside side rear view mirror, radio, or turn signals or it's column mounted switch, that pick up was so stripped down that it only came with the one rear tail / stop light / & license plate bracket on the drivers side. I think it was $1650.00 back then and it took about six weeks to be built up north at the San Jose Cailf. Ford assembly plant. Then the day came my dad went and picked up the F100 and brought it home, I didn't get to go along that time, I had been very sick and had just got out of the hospital but my dad carried me to the back door so I could see that F100 setting there in the driveway, what a beauty those 56 F100's are still great looking trucks to me. Over the years I got to help my dad and learn about taking care and maintaining it. Few years later on I learned to drive in that truck and got to use it for many adventures, raced it for years having lots fun. My dad kept that truck for many years but somtime during the time I was away in the Army he sold it or traded it in and then got a used 1967 F100. After I got back from the Army over the years I had bought several 56 F100's until the mid 1970's. I didn't realize it until I had sold my last one but by then they had started getting harder to find the nicer ones at least at a the cheaper prices, I would still like to get another one to fix up. I also had one 1956 F350 that I bought in 1977 and had up until 2014. But I wish that I could of been able to keep that first 1956 F100 though.

So over the years I personally had many of these 223 engines learning much about them and also worked on numerous others for my friends and many many other people these engines seemed to be everywhere back then. Growing up got to talk to and learn from all my mechanic and farmer uncles as well as many other old timers. The area I grew up in also had lots and lots of Hot Roders and Racers, Performance Shops including three that specialized in the Six'es, K Sissel, Ak Miler, & Jack Clifford. Also at that time there were up to 5 different drags strips operating at one time and severial dirt and asphalt circle tracks from only 3 miles to 40 or so miles away too. So by watching what they were all doing and being able talk to some of them, I acquired lots of info and knowledge. Being that I didn't have much money to work with in those days I also wasn't afraid to experiment. Also my one uncle was a great mechanic he taught me many things and he personally knew others with Performance Shops near his shop while working with him during my high school years I learned a lot and met so many of these people in the preformance trades. Robert

 

['62 Susie Q]

Hi Bob, there are severial ways you could get to the 9.9 to compression ratio. On GalaxieInline's 223 he said that he did it with the .060 over rebuilder cast pistons (Flat Tops) which he said made for some trouble in finding any good ring sets like Chrome (he also found the last set in the US that only leaves the cast rings in the .060 over pistons) then along with lots of machining of the block deck. The orginal block deck cut we don't know but considering how the first machinist didn't do what he asked to do (Zero Deck the Block) we will have to make an educated guess I would say he probally only did the minimum cut in the .002 to .010 range as these 223 block decks usally didn't warp much if any even when overheated numerious times. He just recently milled it .055 this time so maybe it's about .060 total with the piston now setting .005 proud above the blocks deck (instead of the Pistons previously being .050 down the hole). Then along with using a FelPro head gasket of Aprox. .050 crush thickness this ended up giving him a .045 quench distance and putting his 223 inside the sweet spot of .035 to .050 range for a normally aspirated NA engine. To save some time be sure to take a good measurement of how far the Pistons set down the hole of the #1 & #6 with them at TDC, then when it's apart measure the Pistons Compression Height CH (the center of the wrist pin to top of piston) often these rebuilder type Pistons have a shorter CH then a Standard Ford 223 piston dose. He also milled down the head .062 to get the combustion chambers down to 62 CC's.

Another way would be to use a custom forged piston in a Flat Top with a higher CH or even a Pop Up type and or a longer Conecting Rod such as the only slightly longer 215 rods. You could gain more lenght by using an oversize custom conecting Rod pin bushing and then have the rods rebuilt and machined so that they have the longest lenght you can possablely get out of them, also install some ARP Rod bolts first before they are rebuilt. Another way to help some is to offset grind the crankshaft giving a little more stroke lenght. I would need to know what your plan is on the parts that you will be using like the head gasket chooice, and measurements of your block deck height from the piston top, piston chooice, the heads CC's, to be more accurate. Useing a custom forged piston also opens up other more modern ring packs. But if you plan to use the rebuilder cast Pistons try not to bore the block out any farther than to just get a clean round bore hopefully it would end up at .020 to .030 but if not you can also get custom ring sets made but that could be costly. Best of luck on your 223 build up Robert

Bubba,
Gold-plated advice for sure! Many thanks for the timely and detailed response. I may end up learning more about this motor from you than from the local engine shop. Again, many thanks! Bob H.

 

[GalaxieInline]

Hi Bob, there are severial ways you could get to the 9.9 to compression ratio. On GalaxieInline's 223 he said that he did it with the .060 over rebuilder cast pistons (Flat Tops) which he said made for some trouble in finding any good ring sets like Chrome (he also found the last set in the US that only leaves the cast rings in those .060 oversizes) then along lots of machining of the block deck. The orginal block deck cut we don't know exactly but considering how the first machinist didn't do what he asked to do (Zero Deck the Block) we will have to make an educated guess I would say he probally only did the minimum cut in the .002 to .010 range as these 223 block decks usally didn't warp much if any even when overheated numerious times. He just recently milled it .055 this time so maybe it's about .060 total with the piston now setting .005 proud above the blocks deck (instead of the Pistons previously being .050 down the hole). Then along with using a FelPro head gasket of Aprox. .050 crush thickness this ended up giving him a .045 quench distance and putting his 223 inside the sweet spot of .035 to .050 range for a normally aspirated NA engine. To save some time be sure to take a good measurement of how far the Pistons set down the hole of the #1 & #6 with them at TDC, then when it's apart measure the Pistons Compression Height CH (the center of the wrist pin to top of piston) often these rebuilder type piston have a shorter CH then a Standard Ford 223 piston dose. He also milled down the head .062 to get the combustion chambers down to 62 CC's.

Another way would be to use a custom forged piston in a Flat Top with a higher CH or even a Pop Up type and or a longer Conecting Rod such as the only slightly longer 215 rods. You could gain more lenght by using an oversize custom conecting Rod pin bushing and then have the rods rebuilt and machined so that they have the longest lenght you can possable get out of them, also install some ARP Rod bolts first before they are rebuilt. The crankshaft could also be offset ground for a little more stroke lenght.g I would need to know what your plan is on the parts you will be using like the head gasket chooice, and measurements of your block deck height from the piston top, piston chooice, the heads CC's, to be more accurate. Useing a custom forged piston also opens up other more modern ring packs. But if you plan to use the rebuilder cast Pistons or custom Pistons try not to bore the block out any farther than to just get a clean round bore hopefully it would end up at .020 to .030 over but if not you can get custom ring sets made but it's more costly. Best of luck on your 223 build up Robert

Bubba nailed the summary right on the head! One thing I will mention is with a long stroke six it is always nice to get it to oversquare if possible. This means you will have more energy over the rod and the travel of the crank angle before you can't use it due to the angle of the crank.

If I do this again I would do the following:

Surface the block .010 and get forged pistons custom made for .060 oversize and tall enough to pop out of the holes. 005". Why?
1: Custom forged pistons will come with modern easily obtainable ring packs, and will be bullet proof because they are forged.
2: you won't have to spend as much on machining or take as much off your block to obtain positive deck and ideal quench.

3: I think a total of .062 might be what I started with on the head, have yours cc'd before starting and then just run the calculator online to figure out how many CCs to get rid of to up your comp.
4: patriot or custom headers into single collector if it can fit on your car, with a single exhaust to the back. This will help flow at low rpm and torque. It will also save you $$ and having to talk toarry at clifford about warped headers that don't fit lol.

If you have any questions feel free to reach out to me, but yes I have been busy out enjoying my build

 

[Big six Farmer]

Yes, dont doubt bubba on this... There is nobody that knows this better... The Man has raced these engines, he knows...

 

['62 Susie Q]

Bubba nailed the summary right on the head! One thing I will mention is with a long stroke six it is always nice to get it to oversquare if possible. This means you will have more energy over the rod and the travel of the crank angle before you can't use it due to the angle of the crank.

If I do this again I would do the following:

Surface the block .010 and get forged pistons custom made for .060 oversize and tall enough to pop out of the holes. 005". Why?
1: Custom forged pistons will come with modern easily obtainable ring packs, and will be bullet proof because they are forged.
2: you won't have to spend as much on machining or take as much off your block to obtain positive deck and ideal quench.

3: I think a total of .062 might be what I started with on the head, have yours cc'd before starting and then just run the calculator online to figure out how many CCs to get rid of to up your comp.
4: patriot or custom headers into single collector if it can fit on your car, with a single exhaust to the back. This will help flow at low rpm and torque. It will also save you $$ and having to talk toarry at clifford about warped headers that don't fit lol.

If you have any questions feel free to reach out to me, but yes I have been busy out enjoying my build

Really helpful, GalaxieInline! And, thank for following up. I can see the logic you used and with the tech piece from Bubba, I can have an educated conversation with the machinist. Many thanks! Bob H.

 

[pmuller9]

Really helpful, GalaxieInline! And, thank for following up. I can see the logic you used and with the tech piece from Bubba, I can have an educated conversation with the machinist. Many thanks! Bob H.

Bob
Do you have your engine apart yet?
There are some important measurements that we would like for you to take.
Thanks

 

['62 Susie Q]

Bob
Do you have your engine apart yet?
There are some important measurements that we would like for you to take.
Thanks

GalaxieInline,
Sorry, but no, I haven't pulled it apart yet. We are delayed in getting my transition from active duty finalized this summer so all my plans are shifting right a bit.
Bob H.