All Small Six Starting new build

This relates to all small sixes
Montytm26

Montytm26

New member
Hey all, finally had time to pull my motor and and start the process of a full rebuild. Here’s the current list of parts…
Aluminum head serial #026
Yella Terra 1:65 roller rockers
Double timing chain
Holley 2300 sniper
Holley hyper spark distributor and coil pack
Schneider cams 262-70h cam
I’m going with flat top pistons but don’t know if I need to bore the block yet. T5 conversion. A bunch of other miscellaneous parts. I do have a couple questions though.
Should I upgrade the radiator from factory? The original one looks to be in good shape and doesn’t have much crud in it. Do they flow enough for a mild build?
The alternator that’s in the car doesn’t have any tags on it except “tested to 70 amps”. It is not a single wire alternator. Will I have issues running the Holley components with this? I’m sure I’ll I’ll have a lot more questions as I continue on. Calling this week to get in to the machine shop for the block work. Decking, cam bearings etc. It has been about 5 years in the making for parts acquisition and time to do it but I’m glad it’s finally started!
 
That sounds similar to mine but with some really nice features that are still on my wish list (aluminum head, roller rockers and EFI).

My take on cooling, is that the new, stock replacement radiator in my car is suitable for cooling a mild build 66 with the OEM iron head, Clay Smith 264/274 cam, Weber 38/38, 60 over shallow dish pistons, HEI, Header. My engine has just below 9:1 compression which might help keep the temp in check but because of the cam, I run it fairly advanced which makes it run hotter.

I have read that the original copper/brass radiator will run cooler in low speed traffic situations than a denser aluminum multi-core radiator because it will flow air through it easier.

I’d add that I’m in the process of fitting 3,000 CFM 16” electric fan in place of the stock belt driven fan. I was planning a pusher fan but after some shake down tests, I find that the engine compartment gets too hot for the carb on the cast iron head and exhaust ports. It doesn’t vapour lock and percolate to the point of stalling but it definitely causes heat soak trouble with the carb. That will be less of a problem with your aluminum head and separate intake manifold but something to keep in mind. Mine will be a pull fan which should help keep the air flowing in the engine bay to keep the iron lump cooler and if it doesn’t cool it adequately, I’ll put the original fan back on until I can get an aluminum head and separate intake manifold. The mechanical fan had no problem cooling it at all.
 
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Couple suggestions, if it has taken a couple yrs for parts acquisition, and your YT rockers have been sitting, check them carefully to make sure the roller bearings are not binding. Mine sat for a while and the grease formed up. I could hardly move the needle bearings. I had to take the snap rings off and carefully tap the bearing cage out, clean with solvent, relube and reinstall in arms.
Are you running ac? You can start out with your existing radiator, maybe add a fan shroud. It won’t overheat quickly if it does, it will be a gradual clime, if it does, turn the ac off and then make a decision.
You should also be ok with a 70 amp alternator. Again, if problems arise running ac or when the alternator dies then you can upgrade. I have a one wire 100 amp works great stays pegged at 14 volts
 
DON said:
Couple suggestions, if it has taken a couple yrs for parts acquisition, and your YT rockers have been sitting, check them carefully to make sure the roller bearings are not binding. Mine sat for a while and the grease formed up. I could hardly move the needle bearings. I had to take the snap rings off and carefully tap the bearing cage out, clean with solvent, relube and reinstall in arms.
Are you running ac? You can start out with your existing radiator, maybe add a fan shroud. It won’t overheat quickly if it does, it will be a gradual clime, if it does, turn the ac off and then make a decision.
You should also be ok with a 70 amp alternator. Again, if problems arise running ac or when the alternator dies then you can upgrade. I have a one wire 100 amp works great stays pegged at 14 volts
Click to expand...
On six cylinder Mustangs did Ford provide a larger radiator if spec'd with AC?
 
DON said:
Couple suggestions, if it has taken a couple yrs for parts acquisition, and your YT rockers have been sitting, check them carefully to make sure the roller bearings are not binding. Mine sat for a while and the grease formed up. I could hardly move the needle bearings. I had to take the snap rings off and carefully tap the bearing cage out, clean with solvent, relube and reinstall in arms.
Are you running ac? You can start out with your existing radiator, maybe add a fan shroud. It won’t overheat quickly if it does, it will be a gradual clime, if it does, turn the ac off and then make a decision.
You should also be ok with a 70 amp alternator. Again, if problems arise running ac or when the alternator dies then you can upgrade. I have a one wire 100 amp works great stays pegged at 14 volts
Click to expand...
Thanks Don for the heads up. I’ll check them out real good. Hopefully sitting still sealed will help.
 
Just got off the phone with the local machine shop. Looks like about $700 for all machine work to be done. Bad part is they’re about 2-3 months out for completion. I guess that’s not too big of deal though, it’ll give me time to take care of some other things.
 
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