All Small Six Keeping the carb cool

This relates to all small sixes
Aluminum is a good conductor and will also conduct heat to the other side, steel would better, and better if mirror finish on the side to reflect heat away. A barrier of anything would be better than none.
I agree with what Frank said.
 
I’ve got to say, I am very happy with that little 6mm phenolic spacer. The car is definitely more responsive to the pedal. When I took it out after I had done the update, I thought it pulled quicker but wasn’t certain. I had it out this afternoon for a while and now I’m certain there are tangible improvements. It revs a little quicker under load when you put your foot into it. It’s noticeable and the intake sounds like it’s more open when you’re on the throttle (if that makes sense). It kind of roars.

it’s also very responsive at low speeds. It wants to take off like a rocket as soon as it gets off the idle circuit and onto the mains and with the low gearing in first gear on my 5-speed, you have to really take it easy if you’re just idling around in a parking lot at the grocery store.

They ought to include these in the kit.
 
I’ve got to say, I am very happy with that little 6mm phenolic spacer. The car is definitely more responsive to the pedal. When I took it out after I had done the update, I thought it pulled quicker but wasn’t certain. I had it out this afternoon for a while and now I’m certain there are tangible improvements. It revs a little quicker under load when you put your foot into it. It’s noticeable and the intake sounds like it’s more open when you’re on the throttle (if that makes sense). It kind of roars.

it’s also very responsive at low speeds. It wants to take off like a rocket as soon as it gets off the idle circuit and onto the mains and with the low gearing in first gear on my 5-speed, you have to really take it easy if you’re just idling around in a parking lot at the grocery store.

They ought to include these in the kit.
There's multiple benefits to an insulated spacer. Plenum increase, straightening of the airflow before the runners and the cooler carb. I was blown away when Engine Masters did a test of fuel temperature. I don't know how much cooler the gas would be while running with a spacer though, but at least somewhat cooler I would presume.

In the test gasoline that was around 40* added double-digit power to the dyno mule over gas @ 100*. The reason was the cooling effect on the plenum/runners, increasing density. The runner temps dropped almost equal to the gas temp drop.
 
A little update. I found a guy on Craigslist with a 4 barrel 289 air cleaner near me.

I’m going to make a fibreglass insert to fit the webber carb to the air cleaner housing, tne same size as the 4 barrel outer diameter and I’ll set it up to a height that fits under the hood. I'll continue to use the weber oiled filter and have it inside the ford air cleaner and plumb cold air to it through the radiator support.

I’ll have to get a 200 Sprint decal for it, not that anyone would be fooled into believing it was a 289 :LOL:

IMG_3599.jpegIMG_3598.jpeg
 
I like that 289 air cleaner. A couple years ago I looked into having a v8 air cleaner on my 250 but seem to recall it interfered with the oil filler cap but I was test fitting with a 351 air cleaner I had. So the 289 is the one apparently. I got started on that because the 144, 170, 200 and 250 all used the same size air filter and the 250 is much closer in cubes to the 289 than it is to the 144. I don't have factual evidence the 250 needs a bigger air cleaner but more is often better.
 
A little update. I found a guy on Craigslist with a 4 barrel 289 air cleaner near me.

I’m going to make a fibreglass insert to fit the webber carb to the air cleaner housing, tne same size as the 4 barrel outer diameter and I’ll set it up to a height that fits under the hood. I'll continue to use the weber oiled filter and have it inside the ford air cleaner and plumb cold air to it through the radiator support.

I’ll have to get a 200 Sprint decal for it, not that anyone would be fooled into believing it was a 289 :LOL:

View attachment 27848View attachment 27849
I personally really like this. I'm the loudest advocate of factory intake filter housings on here, for better or worse. Not just the cool air, worth 1% power increase per a mere 5*F , but also for the hot air system. The hot air part of the system is even more critical/beneficial in my climate for preventing carb icing, which can begin as high as 68*F. Winter ambient low temp 35-55* with near 100% humidity, without the hot air snorkel, I'm stalling, engine flooded at every stop, the first 10 minutes cold.

Aside from the mechanical benefits, these filters are rugged, and quiet. in my youth I liked hearing the intake "roar", the factory system keeps all that suction racket contained.

Switching to the a'market intake and 2V carb from the factory 1V I had to find a factory housing. This one's from a '77 Jeep. "It works."
 

Attachments

  • 101_1267.JPG
    101_1267.JPG
    425.1 KB · Views: 17
Not so sure that I would do that on a car that might get driven in the rain or a dusty road. That area gets everything flung off the tires. A inner fender may have been added. Sure looks nice.
 
Interesting!! The snorkels look like they are sealed inside to something, not the outer filter housing🤔
 
So, its crap weather around here now so I'll have to work on the large log head and other things until it's car season again but I did test fit the air cleaner housing on my Weber carb and it'll work. The hood will just not close with the carb on the small log because the adapter puts the carb too high but with the large log, I'm going to machine the log and mount the carb to a plate that I'll mount onto the large log so it'll be a few inches lower and that'll give me plenty of room. Plenty of room for access to the oil cap too.

IMG_3606.jpeg

I like the blue against the red too.

I should be able to easily pull cold air through the radiator support where the voltage regulator is currently and route it right into the air cleaner.
 
Interesting!! The snorkels look like they are sealed inside to something, not the outer filter housing🤔
They may not be attached at all- engine shift and vibrations bolted directly to the body, not good. I see the rubber connector at the fender, that's probably not enough give for the system. On hard acceleration the filter housing is moving 1/2" or more right, unless they've solid m. mounts. I wouldn't want all that pressure on the single 1/4" stud in the carb, looks like they don't either.
 
I understand the movement of the engine. I would think absorbing the movement with flex in the ductwork would be better than sucking g in hot engine bay air, kinda defeats the goal🤔
 
I understand the movement of the engine. I would think absorbing the movement with flex in the ductwork would be better than sucking g in hot engine bay air, kinda defeats the goal🤔
Good point. Weighing the odds- a small % of underhood air better than 100%. Ripping the carb stud from the center of the carb would present major issues. When in motion, the ducted air has higher pressure than underhood, and would displace any intrusion.
 
@awasson was reading the thread, while I'm deciding between 32/36 or 38/38 for my car and actually stumbled upon this kit for weber carbs. Wanted to share, in case anyone needs it

Also, at the bottom of this page, there is an adaptor for weber to use with 5 1/8 Holley filters. I assume you can use a different brand as well, but thought that it might give more options for air filters
 
Last edited:
Also, at the bottom of this page, there is an adaptor for weber to use with 5 1/8 Holley filters. I assume you can use a different brand as well, but thought that it might give more options for air filters
Yes, the 5 1/8" filter neck fits all 4V filters, and all Holley/Autolite 2V filter housings. (y) many options.
Rochester and Carter 2V filter housing necks are smaller.
 
@awasson was reading the thread, while I'm deciding between 32/36 or 38/38 for my car and actually stumbled upon this kit for weber carbs. Wanted to share, in case anyone needs it

Also, at the bottom of this page, there is an adaptor for weber to use with 5 1/8 Holley filters. I assume you can use a different brand as well, but thought that it might give more options for air filters

Much appreciated. That snorkel kit looks really reasonably priced. I’ve got that 289 air filter housing off a Falcon that I will probably use but if it turns out to be too finicky to fit, I’ll jump on that snorkel kit.

Hey, when you put on the Weber, do make sure to buy a phenolic spacer to place between the carb and the carb adapter as a thermal break. I put mine in about a month and a half ago and the difference it has made is a complete game changer. Prior to putting it in, I had to set my carb just slightly too rich. It was to the point that driving with the window down was a bit unpleasant. After I put the spacer in, the carb stays cool and I’m able to run it leaner and it smells less rich. It’s not like a car with fuel injection and a catalytic converter but it is much better. You can still get the one for a 32/36 from most Weber dealers. I got the one for my 38/38 from an EBay seller.
 
Back
Top