All Small Six Starting new build
- Thread starter Montytm26
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
Tell me that at on the cam spacer at between 1 and 2 o'clock that is a scratch and not what looks like a cracked cam spacer. That will happen if the inside bevel is not toward the cam journal because of the cam snout radius, in the pic it looks right but not sure. If it is cracked I believe ''Classic Inlines'' has some.
No I would not try to tap that at this stage of build, the soft plugs seem to work ok if new and not over pounded so that it looses tension. It needs to be all the way in, past flush but not deformed. I have in the past have used Permatex sealer, the brown goo number, but I wonder if red lock tight might be better, seek others advice on this.
If you do have to take the cam retainer off, I would like to know if there is oil groves on the back side of the plate and if you can tell us if, by way of witness marks that it come mounted as showing from the factory?
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Montytm26
Well-known member
The retainer plate does not have oil grooves in it. Is that an issue?
In the last post that you Quoted me on. I meant to type, '' if the inside bevel is not toward the cam journal it can crack'' In simple terms the inside bevel on the cam spacer has to be toward the cam journal because of the radius of the cam snout. Sorry for the confusion if there was any and please delete that post or fix so others reading will do it right.
Ford started with no grooves, then went two grooves on one side and last two grooves on both sides. The reason I asked is I have been trying to figure which side the one side grooves where installed from the factory. If it is not worn bad run it, if it is worn it would not hurt to replace with a new one which should be grooved on both sides. hope this helps.
Montytm26
Well-known member
Ok makes sense. Yeah the bevel was facing in. Just scratched.
Montytm26
Well-known member
She lives! Was able to get the plug in place and built good pressure. Set static timing on Sniper to 15* and checked with timing light. I know the marker doesn’t have 15* so I got as close as I think it should be. The Sniper is all new to me so if anyone has any pointers for tuning I’m all ears! Seems to be running ok, just seems real rich. Can smell it. Raised idle to 2200 and ran for 20-25 mins for break in. I’ll pull the plugs after I take it up and down the road a few times. How long should I run the break in oil before changing it? Also for anyone else with a ln in tank Holley fuel pump, it seems extremely loud? Is that normal? You can hear it in the video.
View attachment IMG_4596.mov
View attachment IMG_4596.mov
That is awesome news! It sounds great too!
I ran my break-in oil for 1000 miles but when/if I build another engine, I'll probably change at 500 or sooner. All things going well, the cam is good to go on day 1, rings are seated within 100 miles (I have moly steel top rings and they seated very quickly). There's no reason I can think of to keep running the brake-in oil when everything is settled.
If I was having trouble dialling in the tune, that would be a reason to delay on changing the oil I guess. I have had engines run rich enough to get past the rings and into the oil and you could smell it when you changed the oil. I definitely would want that alleviated before putting a new load of oil in.
I ran my break-in oil for 1000 miles but when/if I build another engine, I'll probably change at 500 or sooner. All things going well, the cam is good to go on day 1, rings are seated within 100 miles (I have moly steel top rings and they seated very quickly). There's no reason I can think of to keep running the brake-in oil when everything is settled.
If I was having trouble dialling in the tune, that would be a reason to delay on changing the oil I guess. I have had engines run rich enough to get past the rings and into the oil and you could smell it when you changed the oil. I definitely would want that alleviated before putting a new load of oil in.
We had a report that if you use the intake port by the end more for the PCV it can dangerously lean out the cylinder that it is by. it is better to have it at the center at /by the carb/ throttle body so all cylinders pull from it.
Not sure if your is like that, but I thought I would mention it.
Not sure if your is like that, but I thought I would mention it.
Montytm26
Well-known member
Are you meaning the threaded port in the intake?
Montytm26
Well-known member
Yes, I do not have, or have had My eyes on the AL. head/intake to make My determination as how bad it is. But that was a report of one of our members, that he had issues and your intake may be different. Does it look like it pulls air from just one cylinder maybe two. Also too much oil can cause Detonation so make sure that there is good baffling in your valve cover.
Montytm26
Well-known member
Would it be better to route it to the 3/8 port on the sniper then? And how would you baffle the aluminum head cover? JB weld a plate in it?
I put in a remote catch can on mine when I built it. It has build in baffling where the PCV comes from the valve cover. I have the small log and pull PCV from the bung on the log just below the carb. I have no oil to be seen on the little dip stick after 2500 miles. It had been a while so I just checked today.
If the valve cover you have doesn’t have a baffle, I would just mimic what the original ford valve cover had. I think it’s just a plate so the PCV valve hole is obscured from direct line of sight of the valvetrain.
What awasson said, and not familiar with the Sniper, but yes if that is made /approved for PVC use.
I have an an aluminum cover that needs a baffle. I have an extra oem cover, going to that as a pattern. I was thinking cut little notches with a dremmel in the cover and wedge it in. Let the tension hold it. Maybe add some aluminum-a-weld to secure it, just don’t want to get it too hot. Aluminum tac weld might be better. I also need to check clearance for the rocker arms
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