All Small Six Engine stalls at idle

This relates to all small sixes
I have a Ford 200ci I6. Weber 32/36 DGV w/ electronic choke & DUI Distributor. Engine has been rebuilt in 2018 and has ran great for 3 years averaging 40 miles daily. This morning, driving on the freeway for 15 miles, I exit on a off ramp. When my speedometer reached 20mph, the engine shut off. I put it into “park” and it started immediately, but then the engine wants to shut off again. I had to keep rpms above 1500 to keep it running. So it has no problem restarting, but shuts off if rpms fall below 1000rpms.
I removed the carb and did a tear down and cleaned all jets/carb orifices. Reinstalled carb. Problem still exists. External fuel filter is clean and there is fuel flow. Anyone have any idea(s) what should be looking for?
 
Did you check your fuel pressure and do a volume test yet? Look for trouble at end of the fuel tank fuel gauge / pickup tube this item is called a sock they can go bad over the years and cause blockage then release to draw some fuel then block it again you will have to pull the unit out to see it. Also be sure to check the rubber fuel line from fuel tank to the metal hard line this rubber line is often neglected not being replaced since you have to go under the car to see it. Often these old rubber lines can be cracked and then suck air instead of being able to pull fuel from the tank, i cant tell you how many times i found this was the problem with the fuel delivery but it was a lot. Also check other rubber fuel lines for damage from the hard line to the fuel pump as well as any other rubber lines up to the carb are all in good condition. Best of luck
 
how it dies could be a clue. is it like the engine was shut off , just dies suddenly with no firing , If it's fuel it often will stumble before it dies or you may see things like it almost catching during cranking but firing sometimes. That might indicate it has a spark.

I'm not sure where you are but heat is a possible contributing factor some areas are hot now. coil getting hot and not working consistently perhaps? any signs that the carb is overfilling and spilling fuel out it's vent?

distributor cap or wires arcing? , check for any carbon tracks in the cap. look at the rotor contacts in the cap are they all green and dirty or clean?

if it has points are they pitted or is it an electronic ignition? on mine the thing completely died during storage and that was a problem with the "module" on the side of the distributor.. basically a transistor or amplifier for the spark. It has a heat sink to draw heat to the body of the distributor. I don't know if they always fail suddenly or if they are prone to being intermittent.

check your grounding , a loose or dirty battery cable or a bad ground from body to engine, check the ground on the engine has good contact with the vehicle. you can just try putting a jumper cable from battery ground to body ground and to engine ground as a quick test.

if you turn your lights on then you might see if the electrical system is being drained or interrupted , perhaps. you can check the voltage at the battery , then check it when it is running. It should be higher when running. take your lead off the negative post and put that on the ground and the voltage should be the same indicating the body is grounded.

a weak coil or bad plug wires could cause an intermittent issue.. easy to swap out. you might be able to unhook the coil and check the resistance through and see what that is.. maybe we can compare to another vehicle.

the fuel pump should be running , it could be weak or getting stuck or filter plugged. you might be able to check fuel delivery to the carb is consistent and that it isn't starving for fuel. don't start a fire. gas burns really really well.. had a friend who drained gas to a bucket and tripped on his trouble light and that was a horror story so be respectful of the fuel but it should run with a bottle gravity fed as a test.. or just pump some into a container but be careful let the engine cool first.


you can pull the plugs one at a time and note their color. see if they look tan and normal or if they look black and carbon-ed up or white indicating too lean.
If one is different from the rest that means something , they should be alike.

if it absolutely wont fire try a squirt of quick start. If it wont fire when cranking but it runs a bit when you spray in just a little then that might sway towards a fuel issue. you dont need much , just a test.

pull the dipstick if you see any white it can indicate a head gasket issue and then you may see water of vapors from the tailpipe or the water bottle running low. check the water make sure it isn't getting oily.

sounds dumb but sometimes people make the mistake of ading dieesel to a gas car, not often but it happens.

others will chime in and some have more experience, but there is a few thought just to get you started..

first thing I'd do clean the battery cables. easy and it's maintenence you shold do anyway. hope you are that lucky because that's easy.
 
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The relay contacts for the fuel pump wears, gets blackened or the fuse contacts get corroded after a while. That might cause it to work after a restart only sometimes, and maybe loose contact randomly. so then you may have full pressure and flow but loose it completely, intermittently. If you get stuck on the road you can likely pop the cover off the relay, fold a tiny slice of about 400 grit paper so it has grit on both sides, put it in between the contacts and pull it out a few times. clean them with alcohol. then order a new relay. you could clip a lamp onto the power wire to make sure that power isn't being interrupted during your troubleshooting. I just did the fuel pump in my 80's volvo and I wired in a tiny indicator in parallel so I can see that it's got power to the pump because it's taken me down a few times unexpectedly. Ignore that if the pump is a mechanical one. It seems unlikely that it would be a mechanical pump I suspect this isn't really old but a newer engine with a carb installed so mechanical pump seems unlikely.
 
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I'd be checking all the vacuum pipes? Especially the one going to the gearbox? Or the PCV valve?
something like that makes sense, whatever it is just happened and he said it ran ok before. sounds like the engine is in good shape. also he said it starts easy and didnt seem to want to run at low RPMS. A vacuum line off could probably make it start and run ( not a bad spark) but stall at idle. also that could happen suddenly.
Shot in the dark , but any chance the lock bolt on the distributor wasn't tight and it moved?

if the problem is fuel delivery then the bit about the engine starting fine and reving but not idling seems to perhaps not make sense to me because it takes more gas to race the engine than idle it , unless it was a mechanical pump with a bad diaphragm maybe? then it would move faster right? we can likely rule out that it's a mechanical pump..

it's like a riddle so far.. an interesting one.
 
It sounds more like your issue is more related to ignition (DUI) or power to the ignition. Make sure you have consistent voltage going to the coil. If all your power (12v) is good. I would be suspect of the ign module or coil breakdown
 
If the carb had/has an idle circuit, then a bit of grubbiness could be the problem? I'm not super familiar with US carbs to know....being more used to the likes of Weber and SU carbs...[It's about what one grows up with..and can find in hedge-bottoms, I suppose?]

Gearbox oil levels OK??

I'd be 'inclined' to 'up' the tickover revs a tad? [A 'Tad' is an engineering term, a bit more than a ''smidgen,'' a bit less than a 'nudge']

Gotta go get my 200 fired up ....got a family duty to perform!! I hope the seats are still clean?
 
If the carb had/has an idle circuit, then a bit of grubbiness could be the problem? I'm not super familiar with US carbs to know....being more used to the likes of Weber and SU carbs...[It's about what one grows up with..and can find in hedge-bottoms, I suppose?]

Gearbox oil levels OK??

I'd be 'inclined' to 'up' the tickover revs a tad? [A 'Tad' is an engineering term, a bit more than a ''smidgen,'' a bit less than a 'nudge']

Gotta go get my 200 fired up ....got a family duty to perform!! I hope the seats are still clean?
 
translation may be "whup it up a bit" my local jargon would refer to folicals of female anatomy followed by the color of the hair indicating finer measurements, the blonde being the smaller adjustment , brunette being more than that. The hedge bottom might be local expression, I've never heard it used. a smither is a bit more than a smitherine too :)

my old 66 Volvo uses dual SU's and I merely changed needles and seats as i did some performance upgrades. simple. Almost all the early ones were like that.

I do often wonder how a 300 would perform with three of them and all the electronics and "complex hosing" removed. My brother upgraded two 90's volvos just like that. he got a little less power with no other engine mods, but they can be selected for needle and bore sizes.

The result was increased reliability through a great deal of simplification which was his objective. no more ECU or sensors to fail. it worked quite well in that reguard. some put two of the ones from cars that came with single SU carbs for more air/fuel. a six could probably be fitted with three.

hopefully Rareair got it resolved. we can all relate to being stuck with such issues, usually at an inconvenient time.
 
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