Engine work evaluation

[Invectivus]

So I just got my block back from the shop, and things didn't really go the way I expected. This was probably due to me, and I'm fine with that as this is a learning experience for me.

I stripped the block *almost* completely, took it down and asked for a hot tank for it, as well as an evaluation of a rusty cylinder. The things that were not removed by me were the freeze plugs, and the cam bearings. I assumed that they would remove those, at least the bearings as i don't think i have the means. is that right?

Anyway, so he cleaned the block, and the rust was too deep in bore 2, so we went 60 over (it was already 40 over when i got it), and pleaned it up some more. I hadn't noticed the freeze plugs, but did ask about the cam bearings, and was told that they would be fine (and they do look ok).

So here are some pix, and I had a couple questions. does it look like the cleaning he did was non-caustic? I would have expected the bearings to look totally shot, and i would have expected all the rust to be off the block. IS that correct? Also, because my freeze plugs were still in, is there a high danger of garbage being trapped in the block? The engine only had a couple thousand miles on it from the last rebuild, so i'm fairly confident that it's pretty clean....

But you never know. I'd like to not waste more time and money with a new cleaning process, but then i'd like to not blow up my engine either. In messing with it, and blowing air around, I haven't been able to get a single particle out of the water jacket.

http://www.invectivus.com/crank_bores.JPG
http://www.invectivus.com/crank_front.JPG
http://www.invectivus.com/crank_rear.JPG
http://www.invectivus.com/drvside_front.JPG
http://www.invectivus.com/drvside_rear.JPG
http://www.invectivus.com/passide_front.JPG
http://www.invectivus.com/passide_rear.JPG
http://www.invectivus.com/water_jacket.JPG

 

[rbohm]

8) things look good to me, buti would like to see close up pics of the cam bearings.

 

[addo]

Those pictures show a clean block, inside and out. Your patchy corrosion areas are due to prior "attack"; once the caustic has been washed off they have tended to surface corrode faster. Won't hurt to remove the other plugs anyway...

Cam bearings - The drill hole is (I believe) larger than the bearing orifice. That potentially creates a hiding place for grit or junk. Try a little probing with wire, from the crank bearing end of drilling.

Also you want to be able to shine a light down your main oilway and know by sight, it is squeaky clean. Don't touch the bores until all else is cleaned and quantified - unless they start to surface corrode, at which point a temporary film of motor oil is advised.

When doing the proper bore clean, have your motor right way up so the detergent/grit runs away. Rinse with scalding hot water and oil by hand immediately. Watch those sharp edges!

 

[Invectivus]

http://www.invectivus.com/bearing1_1.JPG
http://www.invectivus.com/bearing1_2.JPG
http://www.invectivus.com/bearing1_3.JPG
http://www.invectivus.com/bearing1_4.JPG
http://www.invectivus.com/bearing1_5.JPG
http://www.invectivus.com/bearing2.JPG
http://www.invectivus.com/bearing3.JPG
http://www.invectivus.com/bearing4.JPG

I should quantify - I probably don't know a good bearing from a bad one, though they look and feel like they did before they went to the shop. I work in the computer industry as a consultant, so i have some pretty sensitive fingertips and I can feel the barest friction difference between the shinnier wear side of the bearing versus the cloudier area toward the head. I can also feel in one bearing a small imperfection, but the rest of the marks, i can't feel at all.

 

[rbohm]

8) the cam bearings have a bit of wear, and some minor damage from debris in the oil, and probably from a slightly klutzy cam install, but they are otherwise quite servicable. leave them where they are, but lube them well with some good assembly lube before you install the new cam. DONT use motor oil.

 

[Anonymous]

I always have the cam bearings replaced whan I'm rebuilding an engine wether they appear to be good or not.

Later,

Doug

 

[63comet]

The motor looks clean enough, here in NY, all the shops I have frequented have gone away from caustic cleaning AKA (hottank), the reason being the restrictions on getting rid of chemical waste. They use a high pressure hot water cleaning with detergent. That's the reason for surface rusting. I would get a can of WD-40 and spray it if you do not plan on painting it rifgt away. I think they also ask you to take out your own frost plugs.

 

[woodbutcher]

After seeing the scuff marks on the cam bearings,I,personally would change them.The cam bearings are a darn sight CHEAPER than having to tear down the engine and replace the not only the bearings but MAYBE the cam also.
Leo

 

[page62]

After seeing the scuff marks on the cam bearings,I,personally would change them.The cam bearings are a darn sight CHEAPER than having to tear down the engine and replace the not only the bearings but MAYBE the cam also.
Leo

Agreed. Why try to save a few bucks on cam bearings? As someone who pulled a so-called "rebuilt" engine after 30 minutes run time, I can assure you there's a reason behind the saying: "Penny wise, pound foolish!"

 

[mustang6]

I'd replace them too- they look moderately worn to me and pretty nicked up. Shops in my area charge $50 to R&R cam bearings. The first clue that they didn't hot tank it was the fact that you still have cam bearings left in there at all... I'd also pop out the frost plugs and ask them to blast it out again after they pull the cam bearings- there could be some serious crud in there.

 

[page62]

The first clue that they didn't hot tank it was the fact that you still have cam bearings left in there at all... I'd also pop out the frost plugs and ask them to blast it out again after they pull the cam bearings- there could be some serious crud in there.

...or find a different machine shop. You can find out who's the best in town by going to an "old school" auto parts store -- I'm lucky to have one of these right around the corner. The guys behind the counter should know who's best and who to avoid.

 

[woodbutcher]

While I`m thinking about it.Something that I ALWAYS do before taking a block,heads or whatever to a machine shop is to steam or pressure clean it first.That is AFTER removing ANYTHING that is removable.Core plugs,oil passage plugs,cam bearings.If it come out or off,do it.
Leo

 

[Invectivus]

So i figure i'll measure my cam, verify the journal size, and have them replaced. Also there's a speed shop down the street, i'll get a suggestion on another shop to do the R&R, as well as check the cleaning job after i pull the freeze plugs.

 

[addo]

It mostly looked pretty clean. I'd really be concerned about all the oilways. Popping one of the side plugs will tell you the condition of both the plugs (if steel) and the water jacket. Proceed there as required.