Equal length turbo header

[JP]

I agree with Strange Ranger, try the 304 or 316 1.5" nominal sch10 pipe and fittings. It is actually easier to work with than .065wall tube and the inside diameter is close enough. Also, pending the vendor it should be cheaper and accessable locally. Or just do a test header with some cheap steel tubing and have some fun, some times we get to wraped up in the exotic. Good luck.
jp

 

[Anonymous]

JP, I think we need a larger picture than the one you are teasing us with in your avatar!

 

[Anonymous]

I am almost 100% sure that a brace is going to be made just to keep the weight of the turbo off of the tubes, somehow. Im going with stainless becasue it is stronger, resists heat MUCH better, and the so forth as all of you know. BUT, i told myself i was going to make one out of stainless, so im gonna do it, it will be nicer, longer lasting, and wont have to be prepped and painted to keep from rusing up like steel headers.

I truly believe stainless is one of the only REAL ways to do an exhaust header. Im trying to make this thing function well with some style and good looks, but also with basic design principals within my fabrication skills. Money isnt too much of a dependant and either is time.

Schedule 10 is a good size, but 1.5 inch OD is a little too small. With the rectangular sized ports, 1 5/8" OD tubing fits darn near perfect when shaped. There are anumber of places selling 1 5/8" stainless 304 in 90 and U bends for about 30 dolalrs a piece. I only need 2 U bends most likely since i can cut a couple bends from one u bend piece to make at least 4 different runners.

The 2 center runners are almost a direct straight route to the collector. The turbo inlet flange (into the turbo) is about 8 inches from the head (not too much of a distance) i acquired about 4 feet of 1 5/8" stainless 304 from the only stainless steel distributor in Alaska here, for free as a "donation for the cause". It was a scrap, probably costs around 6 to 8 bucks a foot. its 16 gauge as well. May use it if needed. Anywya..ill not make this any longer...

 

[Anonymous]

1) it will be nicer, longer lasting, and wont have to be prepped and painted to keep from rusing up like steel headers.
2) but 1.5 inch OD is a little too small.

1) That is a myth. It will look like stainless for a little while, then get discolored like everything else does. You may as well cermaic coat it as soon as you are done welding it.

2) Hmmmm.....Based on facts?? Nope. That tubing size wouldn't hurt a thing. I did run across one guy that made his headers from 304 .065" but it was a race car only and was never used for a driver.

 

[StrangeRanger]

Nominal pipe sizes are NOT based on the OD of the pipe. They approximate the ID of the pipe in some of the heavier wall thicknesses. But 1.5" pipe is NOT 1.5" OD.

Your 1.625 x .065 tube has an ID of 1.495"
All 1.5" pipe, regardless of wall thickness has an OD of 1.900"
For Sch 80, which has a .200 wall, this yields an ID of the nominal 1.5"
For the other schedule, with lesser wall thicknesses, the ID will be larger.
For Sch 40 the ID is 1.610"
For Sch 10 the ID is 1.682"

This might actually prove too large rather than too small, in which case you may wish to investigate 1.25" Sch 10. It has an OD of 1.660 and an ID of 1.442

If you insist of going with tubing, use something heavier than .065" to withstand the heat and vibration. Regardless of the header material thickness, you will need an additional brace to support the turbo

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info, StrangeRanger

McMaster Carr has Part Number 45735K217 schedule 10, 1-1/4 304 stainless weld els for $6 each.

For less than $50 I would have the Els I need to build my tube turbo header for my 200.

I guess I better get off my butt and get 'er done, huh?

 

[StrangeRanger]

Another 43.56 will get you enough straight pipe to build a couple of headers. (4347K57) only problem is shipping a 7' chunk of pipe. Have you tried sourcing locally? We have a place in Akron which buys surplus inventory from manufacturers at scrap prices and resells it at way below retail to small shops, hobbyists or anyone else with money. Your city may have a similar place.

 

[Anonymous]

Actually, YES - straight pipe is easy to come by at the local scrap yard. The els are hard to find.

 

[Anonymous]

oopps.....i miss took the pipe sizes..lol..i know the pipe sizes are ID in measurment, but i was thinking tubing for some reason..ohh well..yeah ..i was tired when i wrote that last night

1.5" Pipe would be a good ID size at 1.61"...i think i will check into this...as the material is becoming easier fo ME to find...

I could wrap it up too with some header wrap...was pondering that to insulate the intake manifold from the exhaust heat...I just dont really want a rusty set of headers in there if you know what i mean...i do realize heat will discolor them...jet hot coating may be another option as well.

im still curious as to why companies like Burns Stainless use 16 gage tubing...arent they quite a professional exhaust fab shop for racing?....of course the word "racing" tells you one thing....

 

[Anonymous]

I'm still curious as to why companies like Burns Stainless use 16 gage tubing....

They don't sell primarily to turbo guys, mainly just N/A guys.

I have the 304 stainless headers on my Ranger 5.0 wrapped with "natural" color thermo tec wrap, and sprayed with white VHT high temp paint. (they are shorties, and I emptied the whole can on them)

They STILL LOOK GREAT! even after 4 years! (need pics?)

 

[Anonymous]

Here are the wrapped headers: