Hello All, I'm starting to freshen up the old 144 that I replaced with a 200, just to have the original motor on hand (you know, numbers matching, which should put it into the six-figure price range, right?). Anyway, those exhaust manifold bolts are of course frozen, rusted, and the heads won't hold a wrench. I got some good input over on the TFFN board, but was hoping for more opinions here. I've been spraying them with releasing oil. But I'm actually temped to cut the heads off, slide off the manifold, and get at the bolts better with vice grips or something. I just fear trying to turn them now and breaking off in the head. I don't have a torch, so this out. My nightmare is ruining the head, as the motor only has 38k on it (but the manifold is trashed).
Exhaust bolt removal
- Thread starter adamscm
- Start date
Dragonlich1961
Well-known member
If you do decide to cut the heads off you could use a welder to weld a new nut on to the bolts. The heat can help loosen the bolt and you get a good place to grab.
Work it back and forth slowly. You may have to try it a few times. Weld the nut on hot. When I do this the nut is cherry red when I stop. Apply a little penetrating oil to the base of the threads while it's hot(not cherry)/it can help boil some crap out.
Work it back and forth slowly. You may have to try it a few times. Weld the nut on hot. When I do this the nut is cherry red when I stop. Apply a little penetrating oil to the base of the threads while it's hot(not cherry)/it can help boil some crap out.
turbo2256b
Well-known member
Dont know what your using for releasing oil but your best bet is krill oil.
+1 on the welding and using Kroil or better yet, homebrew penetrate made of 50/50 acetone/atf. Here's re post of info on the homebrew from my friend Jerry. Also always tighten a bit first. Back and forth after, you can feel when they're going to snap unless they are really for gone.
"This information came out of a past issue of Machinist's Workshop magazine which was forwarded to me by a friend who is a Gunsmith. The article reported that they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. This was a subjective test of all of the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating Oils - - - - - - - Average torque load to loosen
No Oil Used - - - - - - 516 pounds
WD-40 - - - - - - - 238 pounds
PB Blaster - - - - - - - - 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench - - - - - - - 127 pounds
Kano Kroil - - - - - - - - 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix - - - - - - - - 53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix is a home blend of 50% each, lacquer thinner can be used in place of the acetone.
I recently used this on the Shock bolts in the front axel and was able to remove the bolts with out drilling them. I did allow two days for the mix to seep into the rusted parts."
"This information came out of a past issue of Machinist's Workshop magazine which was forwarded to me by a friend who is a Gunsmith. The article reported that they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. This was a subjective test of all of the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating Oils - - - - - - - Average torque load to loosen
No Oil Used - - - - - - 516 pounds
WD-40 - - - - - - - 238 pounds
PB Blaster - - - - - - - - 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench - - - - - - - 127 pounds
Kano Kroil - - - - - - - - 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix - - - - - - - - 53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix is a home blend of 50% each, lacquer thinner can be used in place of the acetone.
I recently used this on the Shock bolts in the front axel and was able to remove the bolts with out drilling them. I did allow two days for the mix to seep into the rusted parts."
Dragonlich1961
Well-known member
If you are going to use the atf acetone mix, store it in a metal container, the acetone doesn't always play nice plastic.
Well, Today I got after it. I ended up with 3 bolts that didn't make it out. Two have about 1/2 inch sticking out of the head, one is flush. I tried drilling on the flush one, but can't seem to make much of a dent in it. The tip of the bit wore down, and there may even be a piece of it in the hole. I'm still soaking the others, but vice grips won't hold it enough, and I don't have a welding rig to weld a nut on. Besides that, it's going great! Trying to formulate a next move...
RichCreations
Well-known member
adamscm":13hm4uhp said:
Matching shop may be in order, before you make things worse...
as for drilling, a carbide burr in a die grinder works wonders...
Ideal is a flush stud left (can grind it so if it's slanted). Center punch, 2 or 3 step smaller hardened drill (there's lots of variety available today). Cutting fluid, a slower speed. (sometimes an easy out can get them). A good result would be most of stud gone, steel bottle brush to clean the threads and a chase w/proper tap.
"Vice-gryps" are an entry method, second step up is:
One of the hand held hardware store tanks and a cheep head can be a stand-in torch if no oxy-acetleyne. I've had good results (may B not as stuck a bolt?) w/these & ele. impact.
"Vice-gryps" are an entry method, second step up is:
One of the hand held hardware store tanks and a cheep head can be a stand-in torch if no oxy-acetleyne. I've had good results (may B not as stuck a bolt?) w/these & ele. impact.
Well, after spending a day becoming intimate with it, the machine shop idea is sounding good. There is a local shop that for around $175 will do a valve job and remove (and re-sleeve if needed) the bolts. This seems like a plan. The motor only has 38k on it, and was not using oil, so this should freshen it up good to go. In addition, I'm putting on new gaskets, water pump and timing set. Even though low mileage, it is as old as I am, and I could use some freshening-up! I will have the head milled .030 to make up for the thicker after-market head gasket.
No, but I just dropped it off anyway. I spoke with these guys for a while, and they seem super knowledgeable. I got to look around the shop, and I was in engine fantasy land! They will "burn" the head first (I guess they do this instead of chemical vatting now--) then bead-blast it. He will disassemble and call me to let me know exactly what it needs. He says instead of valve guide inserts, they like to drill them out and go with an oversize stem. He will mill it .030 to make up for a thicker gasket, and oh yes, remove the bolts, possibly putting in sleeves if the threads aren't saved. Sounds good...keeping my fingers crossed.
if happy post their info on the "Local shop referrals" forum. I haven't been there 4 awhile so don't remember if 'lousy' shops R also listed…
Keep lookin for, researchin about - the nxt prts/particulars for the right build 4 U!
Keep lookin for, researchin about - the nxt prts/particulars for the right build 4 U!
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