Fitment of Aussie 6's into a 67 Mustang?

[lyonsy]

hey
ok they do fit and there a few in the xr xt falcons.
the manifold there is early multi point there is a later one as well with variable runners (one long one short) for better throttle and torque lower in the revs but dosent hinder up top as much.
the advantage is i think that it is mounted up higher.
you might want to check high and length as well as there are longer and a bit taller (id say about as tall as log 250)
engines mounts are different but can be mixed and matched.
i fited an earlyer engine to a later falcon with these engines and found if you can put the earlyer engine side mounts on the later rubbers so should be reversable or only need slight mods.
sump should be able to be rectafied with a 2 3lb metal movers.
if you get the earlyer block or an el falcon block one with the dizzy in it you can modify a earlyer xflow dizzy to work fairly simply i think its just turn the gear upside down this gives you a mechanical dizzy.
this is the same for the 4L doch engine which is same right through expect for the gas and turbo engine all with vct and 182kw in ba form and 190 in bf form from dual independtent vct on both exhaust and inlet (only a programing change all mechanical stuff there for it on both engines)
if going 4L doch get a lpg one as they have a stronger rod and slightly high comp 10.2:1 or so
you will how ever have troble with sumps if you cant run it flat down as they are a cast alloy sump designed as bottom end craddel for the engine.
might be rectorfied with a 4x4 terry sump but which has the alloy sump moded to have a bolt up oil pan.
and they dont run a dizzy at all just coil pack.
as for which ones better the alloy 2v or the 4L soch about line ball 4L doch whould be better then the alloy 2V but will be a bit dearer once up and running.
4L doch lpg are selling for about $1200 aus
aftermarket compter to run it with vct is about $3000 aus this lets it still ratain the vct and be infinatly tunable if like at something like every 50rpm.
any other Q's ill try to awnser for ya

 

[andrew3]

Some excellent information Drift.

So lets say hypothetically, I wanted to put a 4.0L DOHC into my 67 mustang. A 250 will fit without too many problems (might need an afternarket hood but everything else should be fine) in a 67.

$1200AUD is about $850USD as far as I know, so thats certainly not a bad price for an engine that is 5-10 years old.

Lets see if we can come up with a basic parts list to import to install a 4.0L DOHC and a T-5. The constraints would be:

1) Must be front sump. I do not want to change out my rack and pinion setup which takes the place of the engine crossmember.

2) No T-5 needed as I can get them here. I would just need the bell to mount it too.

3) Engine can be no wider than about 13.5" from centerline to its widest point on either side. That may need to change a bit as the shock towers are not perfectly vertical. Better measurements will be needed, but thats a ballpark figure.

---
So the immediate questions would be:
1) Are there any front sumps that will install on a DOHC engine?
2) What are the specific parts of a DOHC engine rebuild that are not available in the US, and would need to be included in the crate?
3) Would it be possible to import an engine plus the extra rebuild parts on a budget of lets say $1500USD, not including miscellaneous warehouse costs that I would pay on pickup?
4) Could I hook up a megasquirt to the stock harness or just reuse the stock computer?

Thanks for the great responses so far. I really like the idea of modernizing my mustangs powerplant.

-Andrew

 

[addo]

I think there are some items that need to be raised for consideration in the acquisition process.

While prices for engines may reflect actual cash purchase price, you need to allow for transport between place of purchase and shipping agents (and other intermediate journeys). In Australia, such costs are generally expensive.

An "indigenous" T-5 would be good, as it could help initial startup with a factory computer. For that matter, I would advocate purchase of the complete driveline and harness, and narrow the rearend to suit. It will throw error codes left right and centre but should start and drive. Then you can look at dummying superfluous sensors. Sometimes the best policy is to buy a complete (rear) wrecked car and do a deal - an upmarket model usually has a saleable interior.

There should be an oil pan that suits, but to make sure possibly someone here can photograph a unit, next to a tape measure.

In terms of buying, you may be best placed to look at the auctions, get a feel for prices and pre-arrange transport and a split on your purchase. Then just lob bids onto damaged cars - Fowles Auctions are one who (I am pretty sure) will let you post a bid or two in advance). The Australian car market is infinitely smaller than the US one, so to some extent you are compromised for choice...

Don't just shop the internet. We are not a very wired-up country and often the 'net merchants are far from cheapest. You will have to bite the bullet and spend a dollar or two on phone calls and other "homework".

There's plenty more to think about, but this might get you started.