Fitting the 250

[Anonymous]

Hey again lads!
I've decided to tackle the hood clearance problem with my 250 in my -68 Mustang, as it is today my hood is raised ~1 cm (aprox. ½ inch). in the back. Pic here (hood_open.jpg). Doesn't look much in the pic but it's pretty annoying when guys constantly keep reminding me that "my hood is open". :x

I've read somewhere on this forum that it was possible to use motor mounts from another car (maverick -70's something?) to lower the engine. I've searched the forum but can't find the thread. I need to get my engine down about 1 inch. I will get a new aircan but i want to fit the "original style".

 

[Javabean]

Another option to the Maverick motor mounts, would be to check out a member called "The66Mustang". He sells mounts he fabbed up to lower the engine to fit the 250 or a taller carb. From what I take from it, it bolts up with no additional holes in the frame. Pricey at $70, but pretty slick looking and worth a look.

Jay

 

[MustangSix]

Two thing I see that will help.

First, support the engine and pull the motor mounts off. Then take a file and slot the mounting holes so that the engine can sit further down. You can pick up 1/2" to 3/4" that way. The change in driveline angle is negligible.

Second, find a late model air cleaner. The version from a Maverick, Fairmont, Granada, etc are designed to sit low over the carb and provide more clearance.

Between those two mods you should be able to shut the hood.

BTW, the Maverick mounts won't work. I tried a set and the frame bracket holes are wrong.

Also, I really like the little Husky motorcycle!

 

[cfmustang]

Not to hijack the thread, but are those the new American Racing Ansen Slot wheels or something else?

 

[x21]

Not to hijack the thread, but are those the new American Racing Ansen Slot wheels or something else?

While cf is at it- thats a nice sparkly paint job too 8) .

Gee- I wish I knew about the motor mount setup, thats one thing that held me up from getting a 250 in my 68. If you really had money though, I know they make raised fiberglass hoods for 68 Mustangs- http://www.up22.com/mustang67.htm

 

[CoupeBoy]

Guys, when I get home tonight I will take a pic of what I think is the solution to your, and my problem. Frame and motor mounts from a '69 mustang that HAD a 250 in it. My mom's BF yanked the 250 3spd in favor of a '69 289 4spd. Both Mom and I think he is sort of 'special' for disabling a running drivable car, but his idiocy is my gain!!

i've got the pair of '69 brackets and mounts and 1 '67 frame and motor mount. It is obvious that the '69 brackets set wider and noticable that they sit a hair lower.

-ron

 

[Anonymous]

cf - I dunno which brand the wheels are, i just call them "slotmags". I'm pretty sure they're not the exact American Racing Ansen Slot wheels anyway. I see them all around on old yanks here.
x21 - i dunno if i'm gonna take yer comment serously or not , I guess flakes were poular around the disco era, but this dude repainted it late 90s. I'll send the stang in for a repaint next season (prob. candyapple red) - the one thing i kinda like though is the painted roof.

Anyways, i send an email to The66Mustang (info@americanhorsepower.nl) about those motor mounts, anyone know how much you can expect from them in terms of lowered height?

 

[x21]

f0ssil, I did think it was a very unique paintjob- definitely an eye-catcher. Makes me wanna consider getting something like that whenever I get around to repainting my own :idea:

 

[63comet]

Heh Everyone, For whats its worth, I just replaced a 200 with a 250 and here is what I encountered using everything from the 200 to mount the 250 in. First I used the 200 motor and frame mounts, the motor sat higher and did cause a little bit of a problem with carb mounting, that was only because I wanted to mount a H/W 2v with adapters, if I would have mounted an autolite 1v, it would have fit. Secondly, I had to drill an extra 2 mounting holes for the tranny mount about 1" forward, I dont think I would have needed to do this if I didn't switch from a C5 to a C4 (the C5 bell is 3/4" to an 1" longer to accomodate the larger torque converter) and it fit nicely. I had no problems with starter, although I am using the permanent magnet starter, I had no problems with oil pan clearance with the steering link, although I would have had if I had lowered the motor down in the frame. And lastly, I did have problems with radiator room, so I have had to mount a pusher fan in the front. I have not started this bad boy yet, but plan on doing so soon. My conclusion is that you do not know what you will run into, until you actually do the project. Hope this helps in any future swaps.

 

[Anonymous]

stil got 1 set here in stock , check the site !

 

[CoupeBoy]

Sorry its been a while since I said I would post this, but I took a pic of the '69 frame/motor mounts

I need to get some more pics to help with this description.
Frame and Motor mount comparison
Parts compared
'67 Mustang
C7ZA-6037-A (frame mount)
C7ZA-6038-C (Blue*)
C7ZA-6038-H (Green)

'69 Mustang
C9ZA-6037-B (frame mount)
C9OA-6038-D (mount)
C9OZ-6038-B (also on mount)

Setup
I used a peice of 2 by 2 angle iron for the measuring jig. I started by drilling the lowest hole into the angle iron. I then put a bolt through the hole with the nut left lose so I could swing the assembly. I used the '67 frame and motor mount for the next step. I put a level along the motor side of the motor mount and when it was straight up and down I clamped it with a big pair of pliers and ran a drill down the hole that would be the farthest from the motor to mark the location. I then took the frame mount off the jig and drilled out the hole. After the holes were drilled I bolted teh frame mount to the jig and started measuring.

From the end of the jig to the horizontal motor mount face
'67 9.5
'69 9

With the motor mounts oriented as they would be while holding the motor
From the table to the center of the lowest motor bolt
'67 3 5/16
'69 3

I then tipped the jig over on its side and measured from the counter up to the center of the bolt hole that is closest to the jig.
'67 5 1/4
'69 4 3/4


So according to what I found, the '69 frame and motor mounts should lower the motor 5/16" lower, and they make and adjustment to allow for the wider block. The part that was interesting is the 1/2" setback. I noticed that the '69 frame mounts have oblonged holes in them for additional adjustments. I still need to make measurements for the bolt spacing where it bolts to the frame. You also have to allow for some slight miscalculation of measureing as I did it with a tape measure.

-ron

 

[Anonymous]

CoupeBoy - thx a lot for pics and desc., i'm ordering myself a pair of mounts from the66mustang and hope that'll be the end of the problem.