Hello folks. New to this site hoping on answers and tips. I have a Ford 8n tractor that has a 226 industrial motor in it. I'm not sure what the difference between industrial and regular is. It's 6v neg ground.
1. What is the correct oil filter size. It came with NAPA 1010.. That seems small.
2. How would i go about installing a temp gauge?
3. How do i adjust the timing? New everything and there is a slight muffled backfire in the exhaust.
4. Gap for points?(OK not everything new is installed yet)
5. A slight oil leak coming from around the fuel pump stem. Is there a gasket that would be bad?
1. What is the correct oil filter size. It came with NAPA 1010.. That seems small.
2. How would i go about installing a temp gauge?
3. How do i adjust the timing? New everything and there is a slight muffled backfire in the exhaust.
4. Gap for points?(OK not everything new is installed yet)
5. A slight oil leak coming from around the fuel pump stem. Is there a gasket that would be bad?
Edited 
congrats on getting the tune right! It won't matter much on using an electrical or mechanical gauge as far as function goes, though the mechanical gauge is about the easiest one to do and shows temp even if the ignition is off. On how hard it is getting that plug out of the head it all depends if it's a brass or steel plug. Removal tips are the same for both get some good penetrating oil NAPA has a good one called "Twice as Good" soak it good then warm up the engine and use a good Six point socket to remove it. The Brass plugs are usually much easier then a steel one. These same tips will work on the drain petcock too (most of the older ones were brass bodies) except you will have to use an open end wrench on it try and turn it out. If it ends up starting to slip on the flats of the body then I use a good ViseGrip to lock onto it. If you are only wanting to make it function you can wire brush the center threads good put some penetrating oil on it and use a pair of pliers to gently break it loose usually they are not too hard to open (if turning in the right direction).
The car and truck 226 engines used a slightly different version of the Holley 847 1V downdraft carb. I think the carb kits are probably the same thought. The industrial engines usually used truck parts, so try looking for a carb kit for a 1949 to 51 Ford F1 or F2 pickup. The carb float and or needle and seat could very well be the culprit, these had a brass float and many times with old age they will crack open and fill up with gas making them too heavy causing flooding. If you shake the float soon after it happens you can tell hearing the fuel slushing inside and see where the crack is, (fuel wicking out) they can be fixed if you can't find a new one. Open the hole just a little bit with a punch to get the gas out and let air dry or use a match then solder the hole shut. One other thing to check is the floats hinge pin sometimes they the get gummed up with old varnish and stick. On the needle and seat the originals where all metal and you will see a grove worn in them. Many times all it takes to fix them is to remove the fuel bowls top cover replace the needle seat and or fix or replace float NAPA used to sell both items separate from a carb kit. Lastly these old carbs like many other's can have excessive throttle shaft wear (vacuum leak) from all the years of use. This causes them to start running progressively worse as the engine gets warmed up and everything has expanded even more. There used to be sources for replacement shafts and bushing kits for the carb base. Good luck 
