freeing motor that has set for long time

[pedal2themetal45]

HI ALL
The 200 I got for the Comet is from a 64 1/2 stang.. Now it has sat for about 15yrs. I havent tryed to rotate it yet but figgered I'd just as well put some oil in the cylenders and let it set for a while just in case its seazed. What would be a good oil to use for this??
I havent looked for numbers on it yet, not sure where to look can ya help? Its missing the carb and the dizzy. I have a carb off a 240 ya think it will be ok to use and guess I can get a dizzy from a 78 Fairmont for a Duraspark (right).
Thanks
Tim

 

[rbohm]

8) first you need to use a penetrating oil in the cylinders. let it sit for a day or two, then try turning the crank over by hand. if it turns semi freely or not at all, then use more penetrating oil, and let it sit a couple more days and try again. once it turns freely by hand, then spin the oil pump, after you change the oil and filter, untill you get oil pressure. once oyu have oil pressure you have two routes to go. one is to turn the crank 90 degrees, while running the oil pump, every few seconds or so to make sure the oil circulates fully, or drop the dist in place and fire the engine up. either way when you get to the point the of firing the engine, you should have fresh fuel in the tank and carb. before you fire the engine, set the timing so that the engine runs at about 1500-2000 rpm. run it at that rpm for about 15-20 min. then change the oil. after that drive the car and have fun.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

I would only add, use a good synthetic oil. It will penetrate a lot better than a normal oil.

 

[Anonymous]

my engine had sat for 20 years. although the crank was free, the lifters gave me the most trouble. they were sticky and the top end was not oiling that good. i even bent a pushrod during that period of break in. i ran some marvel oil for the first couple hundred miles. i have changed the oil over from petrolium based to synthetic blends and now finally synthetic. the lifters have settled down quite a bit now. i added a seal-swell additive to the pure synthetic oil as it does seem to leak more with the synthetic. also i just changed the pcv valve which was sticky. that could increase oil leakage. and there was a lot of hardened crud in the engine that i did clean out in the valve cover, oil pan and oiling holes.

 

[podboy3]

a guy that i worked with a while back that also restored bugeye sprites swore up and down that putting mineral oil in the cylnders worked better than anything he has tried (which he says was everything) he said that he would pull the plugs put a healthy ammount of mineral oil in and just place the plugs back in with maybe one turn let it sit for a couple of days and then pull the plugs back out cover up the engine back with newpaper and crank the engine over. he claims it works like a charm everytime.

dan

 

[Anonymous]

Just my .02 Marvel Mystery oil in through the plug holes. If the mill sat for 15 yrs I would fill the crankcase full of diesel fuel and let it set for several days before trying to rotate the motor at all that would take care of all areas that were above any lubrication material in the lower end. good luck

 

[pedal2themetal45]

THANSK EVERYONE FOR YOUR REPLYS
I have a lot to thank about
I'm thinking I might go throu the motor $$ permiting. I'm going to pull the pan anyway just to check the bottom end and pull the head also.. Do you think the Valve spring may be weak from sitting with prusher on them, as well as lifters :
Is there like a ecanomical cam that well give some performance but keep some good gas milages : This car well be a mostly daily driver, and I'm looking to keep the gas milage up cause the truck is my actual performarce car (truck). I just want to give it some poop, I know just going to the 200 from the 170 well give it more poop.. OH and I well most likely put a header on it..
THANKS AGAIN
Tim

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

wel the problem I had with my car was after rebuilt the carb and everything that the valvees were sticking and it caused me to bend pushrods like no tomorrow (gave up after going through one set) had the head rebuilt with hardened seats and haven't looked back since. btw my car had 104k on it when I bought it and almost three years later it has 128K on it. I drive it everyday and back and forth to school (250 miles) several times a year. even took it to indy for the brickyard 400 last summer (400 mile round trip in one day) finally put a autolite 1100 on it this week and runs even better now (better idle)

just my .02

I would fill the pan with diesel and run the oil pump for a bit to clean out the sludge then fill with some cheap 10w30 dino oil. a little wd40 or diesel in the plug holes for a couple days followed with a dab of 10w30 (around a teaspoon) then try turning it over by hand. if that doesn't work then it is time to break it down. I wouldn't pull the head right off the bat since it prob has a steel gasket and with them being hard to find I would keep it there unless I HAD to pull it (like sticking valves) btw sometimes bent puchrods will Z into the block....as in due to the bend they are stuck in the block until you pull the head off

nick

 

[pedal2themetal45]

THANKS NICK
Could I pull the rocker arms off and tap the valves with a rubber malet to free them up?? and what about the lifters could they be gumbed up as well? So it might be a good Idea to pull the lifters and work them in some fresh oil (or dissel) I don't think just turning the pump will fill the lifters or lube the rockers? OH i do know to put them back in the same holes.. Beings I didn't get a dizzy with it what does the oil pump take to turn it (screw driver or a socket??). gues i could just look>
Thanks
Tim