Fuel pump?

[Anonymous]

What fuel pump would you guys reccomend? I tried to order the carter made one from rock auto and they said that carter no longer makes it. I tried to order one from napa and they no longer make that one either... I am skeptical of the off brand ones that I found at autozone as I already had a defective one from there.

What ones do you guys run?

Thanks

 

[250mav]

ive had a nappa one for almost 4,000 miles now, no problems.

 

[Anonymous]

I do not like Auto Zone, but they have the Mr. Gasket 5-7PSI electric fuel pump for around $35 that I am using. It works pretty good. I had problems with the original mechanical pump, and I tried a cheapy $20 mechanical replacement from Advance Auto and it went bad in a week. My fuel lines were fine, and the tank is clean. Flushed several times.

I mounted the Mr. Gasket pump in the back about a foot or so from the gas tank and it shows me 6.5 PSI. It works very nice... but you will have to leave your mechanical pump installed on the motor and plug it off, or make a cover to bolt over the hole where it mounts.

Hope this helps.

 

[Anonymous]

hmm... how hard is the electric pump to setup? do you need to put in a return line from the pump to the tank?

 

[Anonymous]

No you do not. Here is a link to it on Amazon... but you can find it in just about any auto store.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AS ... automotive

You bolt it as close to the tank as possible, but away from the exhaust pipes and muffler because of the heat. You have a ground wire and a hot wire that goes to the ignition switch. Start with a empty or near empty tank (since you will be disconnecting the fuel lines). As long as your stock pump isn't frozen or obstructing the lines in any way... this pump can work with the old pump still inline. But it works fine by itself... you just have to plug up the lines on the old pump or bolt something over the hole where it mounted. Oh, and don't forget to add a fuel filter inline before the pump so it won't get clogged with debris. I put a Mr. Gasket glass filter before it so I could see when it was dirty... but any decent one will work.

All you should need is the pump, some extra wire to reach the key switch, a filter, rubber fuel line, and some small hose clamps. The pump comes with different fittings depending on gas line size. And if you delete the old pump, you will need some rubber fuel line and a fitting for the carb so you can connect the rubber hose to it.

 

[Anonymous]

I went ahead and installed the mr. gasket pump today... left the failing mechanical in place seems to be OK for now. maybe I will make a block off plate and remove it. just run the electric. was really easy to install. just stuck it in and ran 12v to it like you said, the only other thing was it said to put a 5amp fuse in the wire going to it so I did that too.

had a real pain getting it to run afterwards and couldn't figure out why, was worried for a while... then I noticed that a vaccum cap had come off of wone of the manifold ports :roll: second time that has happened not sure why

 

[Anonymous]

ok well the pump is running well and I have the car pretty much re tuned, but it has devloped a new problem... at very low trottle the engine sputters like it wants to die. if I give it more gas itis fine, or if I let off the gas. but when I have the throttle open just a little bit it runs like crap. I am thiinking that maybe there is a vaccum leak still? or somthing with the timing? not sure, or maybe there is crap in the carb from messing aournd with the fuel pump so much?

 

[65coupei6]

If you use an electric pump by itself PLEASE wire in a Oil Pressure Safety Switch. You don't want the pump, pumping gas if the engine dies and the key is on!

 

[Anonymous]

Doesn't the float close the needle vavle when the bowl has reached it's level? Unless the pressure was way to great... the float should hold it closed.

But it would still be good to have one never the less, I may install one also...

I was having similar running issues as you with my '65 Stang before I rebuilt the carb. The Anti-stall dashpot was worn out and leaking gas, and the needle vavle seat was worn out. I rebuilt the carb and it seemed to be ok, but quit when I was going up or downhill. I took the carb back off cleaned everything and made sure it was set right... but I played with my float level till it didn't quit up or down hill.

Then my car started quitting again... but it was the crappy new pump I bought... as soon as I put the electric pump inline and the old pump back on too... I haven't had anymore running issues. I have gunned it and tried everything to get it to stall and can't. And it is running as smooth as can be now in idle or while driving.

 

[Anonymous]

yeah, I will pull the carb and clean it, make sure the float is set right too. I know I need new wires and plugs so maybe I should do that to... how do you set up the pressure switch? and do I need it if I am running the electric through the mechanical pump?

thanks for all the help guys

 

[Anonymous]

Also vaccum wise... see how your car runs with the vacuum advance unplugged like when you set your timing, that may indicate some ignition issues... may be the vacuum line or the diaphram on the advance on the distributor. Also you can check the main vacuum to see what the pressure is... I bought a cheapy vacuum meter from Advance Auto for less than 20 bucks and it helped me along well. The meter also helped when I was tuning the autolite 1100 carb.

Just try all the simple stuff first... I actually got into a lot of headaches on my stang because I assumed what the problem was without the proper tools the first time. I try to get all the tools I can if they are on sale or cheap enough... but not too cheap of course LOL!

Hope this helps.

 

[Anonymous]

I myself do not know if you do need the switch when you are going through the mechanical pump... but I have been reading on installation... seems pretty easy. Seems easier than installing the pump itself actually.

I will look into it more... I want to know myself how it is going through the other pump. Seems like the float would stop it...

 

[65coupei6]

!! This might never happen but... !!

Say you get in an accident. Your fuel line breaks somewhere. Even if you have a mech. pump your electric pump will still be pushing fuel. You have a chance of roasting yourself.

An oil pressure safety switch tee's in with your oil pressure sender. When your engine dies and has no oil pressure your electric pump turns off.

It is basically a three wire hookup. One wire to the ignition switch. One wire to the pump. One wire to the starter solinoid.

 

[Anonymous]

Very true. It won't cause running issues, but may be unsafe in an accident. Might be really bad if the engine caught fire and it kept pumping gas,,,, eeek. I will add one just because I am scared now, lol.

I see what you mean indeed.

It does look very simple to install... more so than the pump itself.

 

[addo]

A standard mechanical fuel pump has two one-way poppet valves. They both operate in the same direction. One lets fuel into the pump chamber. The other lets fuel out of the pump chamber, up the carb feed line.

When an extra pump is used as a "pusher" before the mechanical pump, the pressure it generates easily overcomes the poppet valves, and the pump flows with negligible restriction.

FWIW, I have read of people adapting a fuel pump blockoff plate to take a small crankcase breather setup. It then means if they have a PCV on the rocker cover, that cooling air is drawn right through the motor.

Regards, Adam.

 

[mkgcars]

The last one I got from autozone was an Airtex. Seems to work fine.
The one I have is the #60092 ('65 Falcon 170). If you go to airtexproducts.com and select '70 Falcon 200 it lists #6399 though.

Airtexs:
#60092 has a housing that contains the large filter.
#6399 doesn't have the large filter housing.

Napa equivalents:
for the 6399 is NFPM6399 (doesn't have lrg filter as part of housing)
for the 60092 is NFPM60092 (has lrg filter as part of housing)

Bosch:
for '70 Falcon (equiv to Airtex 6399) is 68409
for '65 Falcon (equiv to Airtex 60092) is 68381

RockAuto does sell both Airtex versions and Bosch verions.

If you current pump has the large filter then I'd say go with one of the choices that has it - regardless of how they catalog it for your car.

Bosch's site also lists an electric pump for '65 Falcon w/170. Part # 69404 - and RockAuto also sells it.

matt

 

[johnnyzoom]

You bolt it as close to the tank as possible, but away from the exhaust pipes and muffler because of the heat.

Why is the electric fuel pump installed towards the back, does it need to be close to the tank to draw fuel? Is it safer back there rather than in engine compartment?

- Thanks

 

[Anonymous]

it says in the installation instructions for this pumpto install close to the tank because the pump is very effecient at pushing the fuel through the line but not drawing it from the tank

 

[addo]

Your electric pump doesn't have a lot of ability to "suck" unless it's a diaphragm type like Facit or SU.

Thus, you leave it where the pump can easily start to draw fuel. Once its mechanism is "wet" pump sealing ability increases enormously and off it goes. Mounting it upfront, might occasionally see a need for priming it after running dry... Not very convenient!

Also, the return line type regulators reduce your risk of pressure creep while idling and keep the fuel cooler in hot weather. They're more expensive, but worth is something for the user to determine in their specific situation.

Cheers, Adam.